How to soundproof the Wood Shop?Optimum amount of hearing protection?Noise ratings of equipmentIs PVC pipe safe to use for a dust collection system?What tool can cut thin wood or acrylic/plexiglass without melting it that is suitable for NYC apartment?How do I know when it is too cold to work outside?Safety - Cutting multiple pieces at the same timeUsing a table saw in an apartment roomStopping a table saw by turning off at the outletIs there a name for this particular cutting tool used by people needing to cut into walls to fix things inside?Handsaws for very small flooring project

Must CPU have a GPU if motherboard provides display port (when no separate video card)?

Content Editor Web Part - SharePoint Online?

What class is best to play when a level behind the rest of the party?

Harley Davidson clattering noise from engine, backfire and failure to start

Oxford comma with nonessential phrases

If the pressure inside and outside a balloon balance, then why does air leave when it pops?

Why did Robert pick unworthy men for the White Cloaks?

Must I use my personal social media account for work?

Why didn't the people of King's Landing riot when the Great Sept of Baelor was destroyed?

Why didn't all the iron and heavier elements find their way to the center of the accretion disc in the early solar system?

When a class dynamically allocates itself at constructor, why does stack overflow happen instead of std::bad_alloc?

Do they make "karaoke" versions of concertos for solo practice?

If absolute velocity does not exist, how can we say a rocket accelerates in empty space?

What publication claimed that Michael Jackson died in a nuclear holocaust?

Is plausible to have subspecies with & without separate sexes?

How to properly use a function under a class?

Can I attach a DC blower to intake manifold of my 150CC Yamaha FZS FI engine?

Is the first of the 10 Commandments considered a mitzvah?

Jam with honey & without pectin has a saucy consistency always

Why do (or did, until very recently) aircraft transponders wait to be interrogated before broadcasting beacon signals?

Was the Lonely Mountain, where Smaug lived, a volcano?

What does BREAD stand for while drafting?

Am I allowed to determine tenets of my contract as a warlock?

Why is it bad to use your whole foot in rock climbing



How to soundproof the Wood Shop?


Optimum amount of hearing protection?Noise ratings of equipmentIs PVC pipe safe to use for a dust collection system?What tool can cut thin wood or acrylic/plexiglass without melting it that is suitable for NYC apartment?How do I know when it is too cold to work outside?Safety - Cutting multiple pieces at the same timeUsing a table saw in an apartment roomStopping a table saw by turning off at the outletIs there a name for this particular cutting tool used by people needing to cut into walls to fix things inside?Handsaws for very small flooring project













6















I hold a small (15qm) Wood Shop at the basement, where I have the classic power tools like: a miter saw, a bench saw and a wood drill press and some other hand power tools.



There is a real issue with the noise, the power tools are too loud and the neighbors are irritated.



Now I was looking into tools that are silent, but since they are expensive and hard to find, and I think it would be easier to soundproof the whole room or put the tools in a soundproof box.



My loudest tool has 108db(A) and produces frequencies from 400Hz to 16kHz, for that I have considered using inflammable resistant acoustic foam. But before I start spending money, time and research, I wish to ask first :



Have any of you had to soundproof a wood shop? what solution is effective if so?










share|improve this question









New contributor



Tiberiu C. is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.














  • 1





    The most important thing in reducing sound transmission is mass. The portions of the basement below grade are most likely as good as you can get and should not be of great concern. If sound is audible outside it is due to transmission above grade (open to air) so look to the above grade structure and perimeter wall penetrations for sources of sound transmission.

    – Ashlar
    4 hours ago















6















I hold a small (15qm) Wood Shop at the basement, where I have the classic power tools like: a miter saw, a bench saw and a wood drill press and some other hand power tools.



There is a real issue with the noise, the power tools are too loud and the neighbors are irritated.



Now I was looking into tools that are silent, but since they are expensive and hard to find, and I think it would be easier to soundproof the whole room or put the tools in a soundproof box.



My loudest tool has 108db(A) and produces frequencies from 400Hz to 16kHz, for that I have considered using inflammable resistant acoustic foam. But before I start spending money, time and research, I wish to ask first :



Have any of you had to soundproof a wood shop? what solution is effective if so?










share|improve this question









New contributor



Tiberiu C. is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.














  • 1





    The most important thing in reducing sound transmission is mass. The portions of the basement below grade are most likely as good as you can get and should not be of great concern. If sound is audible outside it is due to transmission above grade (open to air) so look to the above grade structure and perimeter wall penetrations for sources of sound transmission.

    – Ashlar
    4 hours ago













6












6








6








I hold a small (15qm) Wood Shop at the basement, where I have the classic power tools like: a miter saw, a bench saw and a wood drill press and some other hand power tools.



There is a real issue with the noise, the power tools are too loud and the neighbors are irritated.



Now I was looking into tools that are silent, but since they are expensive and hard to find, and I think it would be easier to soundproof the whole room or put the tools in a soundproof box.



My loudest tool has 108db(A) and produces frequencies from 400Hz to 16kHz, for that I have considered using inflammable resistant acoustic foam. But before I start spending money, time and research, I wish to ask first :



Have any of you had to soundproof a wood shop? what solution is effective if so?










share|improve this question









New contributor



Tiberiu C. is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











I hold a small (15qm) Wood Shop at the basement, where I have the classic power tools like: a miter saw, a bench saw and a wood drill press and some other hand power tools.



There is a real issue with the noise, the power tools are too loud and the neighbors are irritated.



Now I was looking into tools that are silent, but since they are expensive and hard to find, and I think it would be easier to soundproof the whole room or put the tools in a soundproof box.



My loudest tool has 108db(A) and produces frequencies from 400Hz to 16kHz, for that I have considered using inflammable resistant acoustic foam. But before I start spending money, time and research, I wish to ask first :



Have any of you had to soundproof a wood shop? what solution is effective if so?







safety power-tools shop






share|improve this question









New contributor



Tiberiu C. is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.










share|improve this question









New contributor



Tiberiu C. is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.








share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 10 mins ago







Tiberiu C.













New contributor



Tiberiu C. is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.








asked 9 hours ago









Tiberiu C.Tiberiu C.

1314




1314




New contributor



Tiberiu C. is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




New contributor




Tiberiu C. is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









  • 1





    The most important thing in reducing sound transmission is mass. The portions of the basement below grade are most likely as good as you can get and should not be of great concern. If sound is audible outside it is due to transmission above grade (open to air) so look to the above grade structure and perimeter wall penetrations for sources of sound transmission.

    – Ashlar
    4 hours ago












  • 1





    The most important thing in reducing sound transmission is mass. The portions of the basement below grade are most likely as good as you can get and should not be of great concern. If sound is audible outside it is due to transmission above grade (open to air) so look to the above grade structure and perimeter wall penetrations for sources of sound transmission.

    – Ashlar
    4 hours ago







1




1





The most important thing in reducing sound transmission is mass. The portions of the basement below grade are most likely as good as you can get and should not be of great concern. If sound is audible outside it is due to transmission above grade (open to air) so look to the above grade structure and perimeter wall penetrations for sources of sound transmission.

– Ashlar
4 hours ago





The most important thing in reducing sound transmission is mass. The portions of the basement below grade are most likely as good as you can get and should not be of great concern. If sound is audible outside it is due to transmission above grade (open to air) so look to the above grade structure and perimeter wall penetrations for sources of sound transmission.

– Ashlar
4 hours ago










1 Answer
1






active

oldest

votes


















4














The advice for a shop is pretty much the same as for any loud activity. There is a lot of research you can do on the internet for music studios, for example, that will apply. So, this is not specific to woodworking.



The first question is what is your budget and how much work do you want to do? Ideally you would physically separate the walls from the floor, and the ceiling from the walls. This is a pretty tall order, though.



The most important thing to do is block as much air movement between the inside and the outside. Then you install sound blocking material between the basement and the rest of the house. The notion is that there is no single magic bullet; the only real solution is mitigation in depth by using multiple sound mitigation techniques together.



A serious modest approach would be something like:



  • Clear all your tools from the walls and remove everything covering the walls and ceiling.

  • Buy a case or three of acoustic sealant, and fill every crack and hole that allows air movement between the shop and the rest of the world. You cannot overdo this step, and no hole or void is too small to consider.

  • Buy lots of sound insulation batts, or hire a firm to install blown or spray insulation into all the voids, making sure to get into every corner and nook.

  • Cover with sound block rating wall covering of some sort, making sure to (in most cases) use multiple layers and follow the installation process for overlaps, joins, and things like outlets and light switches.

  • Replace all doors and windows if necessary, and replace the air-seal around them.

You will probably have to separate the HVAC systems so the shop has its own heating and cooling, unless the rest of the house is ok with the sound coming through hot or cold air ducts. If you have non-ducted heating/cooling you already have a head-start.



A non-modest approach is to do all that, but start by building floating stud walls and ceiling that decouples the interior walls from the outside as much as possible, including (ideally) installing a floating floor.



A cheap-and-cheerful approach is to air-seal as best you can, and then use two layers of drywall everywhere. Seal the doors and windows (or cover them in semi-permanent baffling) and either put up with sound going through the ducts, or stuff them with some sort of safe baffling while you are in the shop.






share|improve this answer

























    Your Answer








    StackExchange.ready(function()
    var channelOptions =
    tags: "".split(" "),
    id: "603"
    ;
    initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);

    StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function()
    // Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
    if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled)
    StackExchange.using("snippets", function()
    createEditor();
    );

    else
    createEditor();

    );

    function createEditor()
    StackExchange.prepareEditor(
    heartbeatType: 'answer',
    autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
    convertImagesToLinks: false,
    noModals: true,
    showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
    reputationToPostImages: null,
    bindNavPrevention: true,
    postfix: "",
    imageUploader:
    brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
    contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
    allowUrls: true
    ,
    noCode: true, onDemand: true,
    discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
    ,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
    );



    );






    Tiberiu C. is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.









    draft saved

    draft discarded


















    StackExchange.ready(
    function ()
    StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fwoodworking.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f9682%2fhow-to-soundproof-the-wood-shop%23new-answer', 'question_page');

    );

    Post as a guest















    Required, but never shown

























    1 Answer
    1






    active

    oldest

    votes








    1 Answer
    1






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    4














    The advice for a shop is pretty much the same as for any loud activity. There is a lot of research you can do on the internet for music studios, for example, that will apply. So, this is not specific to woodworking.



    The first question is what is your budget and how much work do you want to do? Ideally you would physically separate the walls from the floor, and the ceiling from the walls. This is a pretty tall order, though.



    The most important thing to do is block as much air movement between the inside and the outside. Then you install sound blocking material between the basement and the rest of the house. The notion is that there is no single magic bullet; the only real solution is mitigation in depth by using multiple sound mitigation techniques together.



    A serious modest approach would be something like:



    • Clear all your tools from the walls and remove everything covering the walls and ceiling.

    • Buy a case or three of acoustic sealant, and fill every crack and hole that allows air movement between the shop and the rest of the world. You cannot overdo this step, and no hole or void is too small to consider.

    • Buy lots of sound insulation batts, or hire a firm to install blown or spray insulation into all the voids, making sure to get into every corner and nook.

    • Cover with sound block rating wall covering of some sort, making sure to (in most cases) use multiple layers and follow the installation process for overlaps, joins, and things like outlets and light switches.

    • Replace all doors and windows if necessary, and replace the air-seal around them.

    You will probably have to separate the HVAC systems so the shop has its own heating and cooling, unless the rest of the house is ok with the sound coming through hot or cold air ducts. If you have non-ducted heating/cooling you already have a head-start.



    A non-modest approach is to do all that, but start by building floating stud walls and ceiling that decouples the interior walls from the outside as much as possible, including (ideally) installing a floating floor.



    A cheap-and-cheerful approach is to air-seal as best you can, and then use two layers of drywall everywhere. Seal the doors and windows (or cover them in semi-permanent baffling) and either put up with sound going through the ducts, or stuff them with some sort of safe baffling while you are in the shop.






    share|improve this answer





























      4














      The advice for a shop is pretty much the same as for any loud activity. There is a lot of research you can do on the internet for music studios, for example, that will apply. So, this is not specific to woodworking.



      The first question is what is your budget and how much work do you want to do? Ideally you would physically separate the walls from the floor, and the ceiling from the walls. This is a pretty tall order, though.



      The most important thing to do is block as much air movement between the inside and the outside. Then you install sound blocking material between the basement and the rest of the house. The notion is that there is no single magic bullet; the only real solution is mitigation in depth by using multiple sound mitigation techniques together.



      A serious modest approach would be something like:



      • Clear all your tools from the walls and remove everything covering the walls and ceiling.

      • Buy a case or three of acoustic sealant, and fill every crack and hole that allows air movement between the shop and the rest of the world. You cannot overdo this step, and no hole or void is too small to consider.

      • Buy lots of sound insulation batts, or hire a firm to install blown or spray insulation into all the voids, making sure to get into every corner and nook.

      • Cover with sound block rating wall covering of some sort, making sure to (in most cases) use multiple layers and follow the installation process for overlaps, joins, and things like outlets and light switches.

      • Replace all doors and windows if necessary, and replace the air-seal around them.

      You will probably have to separate the HVAC systems so the shop has its own heating and cooling, unless the rest of the house is ok with the sound coming through hot or cold air ducts. If you have non-ducted heating/cooling you already have a head-start.



      A non-modest approach is to do all that, but start by building floating stud walls and ceiling that decouples the interior walls from the outside as much as possible, including (ideally) installing a floating floor.



      A cheap-and-cheerful approach is to air-seal as best you can, and then use two layers of drywall everywhere. Seal the doors and windows (or cover them in semi-permanent baffling) and either put up with sound going through the ducts, or stuff them with some sort of safe baffling while you are in the shop.






      share|improve this answer



























        4












        4








        4







        The advice for a shop is pretty much the same as for any loud activity. There is a lot of research you can do on the internet for music studios, for example, that will apply. So, this is not specific to woodworking.



        The first question is what is your budget and how much work do you want to do? Ideally you would physically separate the walls from the floor, and the ceiling from the walls. This is a pretty tall order, though.



        The most important thing to do is block as much air movement between the inside and the outside. Then you install sound blocking material between the basement and the rest of the house. The notion is that there is no single magic bullet; the only real solution is mitigation in depth by using multiple sound mitigation techniques together.



        A serious modest approach would be something like:



        • Clear all your tools from the walls and remove everything covering the walls and ceiling.

        • Buy a case or three of acoustic sealant, and fill every crack and hole that allows air movement between the shop and the rest of the world. You cannot overdo this step, and no hole or void is too small to consider.

        • Buy lots of sound insulation batts, or hire a firm to install blown or spray insulation into all the voids, making sure to get into every corner and nook.

        • Cover with sound block rating wall covering of some sort, making sure to (in most cases) use multiple layers and follow the installation process for overlaps, joins, and things like outlets and light switches.

        • Replace all doors and windows if necessary, and replace the air-seal around them.

        You will probably have to separate the HVAC systems so the shop has its own heating and cooling, unless the rest of the house is ok with the sound coming through hot or cold air ducts. If you have non-ducted heating/cooling you already have a head-start.



        A non-modest approach is to do all that, but start by building floating stud walls and ceiling that decouples the interior walls from the outside as much as possible, including (ideally) installing a floating floor.



        A cheap-and-cheerful approach is to air-seal as best you can, and then use two layers of drywall everywhere. Seal the doors and windows (or cover them in semi-permanent baffling) and either put up with sound going through the ducts, or stuff them with some sort of safe baffling while you are in the shop.






        share|improve this answer















        The advice for a shop is pretty much the same as for any loud activity. There is a lot of research you can do on the internet for music studios, for example, that will apply. So, this is not specific to woodworking.



        The first question is what is your budget and how much work do you want to do? Ideally you would physically separate the walls from the floor, and the ceiling from the walls. This is a pretty tall order, though.



        The most important thing to do is block as much air movement between the inside and the outside. Then you install sound blocking material between the basement and the rest of the house. The notion is that there is no single magic bullet; the only real solution is mitigation in depth by using multiple sound mitigation techniques together.



        A serious modest approach would be something like:



        • Clear all your tools from the walls and remove everything covering the walls and ceiling.

        • Buy a case or three of acoustic sealant, and fill every crack and hole that allows air movement between the shop and the rest of the world. You cannot overdo this step, and no hole or void is too small to consider.

        • Buy lots of sound insulation batts, or hire a firm to install blown or spray insulation into all the voids, making sure to get into every corner and nook.

        • Cover with sound block rating wall covering of some sort, making sure to (in most cases) use multiple layers and follow the installation process for overlaps, joins, and things like outlets and light switches.

        • Replace all doors and windows if necessary, and replace the air-seal around them.

        You will probably have to separate the HVAC systems so the shop has its own heating and cooling, unless the rest of the house is ok with the sound coming through hot or cold air ducts. If you have non-ducted heating/cooling you already have a head-start.



        A non-modest approach is to do all that, but start by building floating stud walls and ceiling that decouples the interior walls from the outside as much as possible, including (ideally) installing a floating floor.



        A cheap-and-cheerful approach is to air-seal as best you can, and then use two layers of drywall everywhere. Seal the doors and windows (or cover them in semi-permanent baffling) and either put up with sound going through the ducts, or stuff them with some sort of safe baffling while you are in the shop.







        share|improve this answer














        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer








        edited 7 hours ago

























        answered 8 hours ago









        jdvjdv

        81316




        81316




















            Tiberiu C. is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.









            draft saved

            draft discarded


















            Tiberiu C. is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.












            Tiberiu C. is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.











            Tiberiu C. is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.














            Thanks for contributing an answer to Woodworking Stack Exchange!


            • Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!

            But avoid


            • Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.

            • Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.

            To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.




            draft saved


            draft discarded














            StackExchange.ready(
            function ()
            StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fwoodworking.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f9682%2fhow-to-soundproof-the-wood-shop%23new-answer', 'question_page');

            );

            Post as a guest















            Required, but never shown





















































            Required, but never shown














            Required, but never shown












            Required, but never shown







            Required, but never shown

































            Required, but never shown














            Required, but never shown












            Required, but never shown







            Required, but never shown







            Popular posts from this blog

            Canceling a color specificationRandomly assigning color to Graphics3D objects?Default color for Filling in Mathematica 9Coloring specific elements of sets with a prime modified order in an array plotHow to pick a color differing significantly from the colors already in a given color list?Detection of the text colorColor numbers based on their valueCan color schemes for use with ColorData include opacity specification?My dynamic color schemes

            Invision Community Contents History See also References External links Navigation menuProprietaryinvisioncommunity.comIPS Community ForumsIPS Community Forumsthis blog entry"License Changes, IP.Board 3.4, and the Future""Interview -- Matt Mecham of Ibforums""CEO Invision Power Board, Matt Mecham Is a Liar, Thief!"IPB License Explanation 1.3, 1.3.1, 2.0, and 2.1ArchivedSecurity Fixes, Updates And Enhancements For IPB 1.3.1Archived"New Demo Accounts - Invision Power Services"the original"New Default Skin"the original"Invision Power Board 3.0.0 and Applications Released"the original"Archived copy"the original"Perpetual licenses being done away with""Release Notes - Invision Power Services""Introducing: IPS Community Suite 4!"Invision Community Release Notes

            François Viète Contents Biography Work and thought Bibliography See also Notes Further reading External links Navigation menup. 21Google Bookspp. 75–77Google BooksDe thou (from University of Saint Andrews)ArchivedGoogle BooksGoogle BooksGoogle BooksGoogle booksGoogle Bookscc-parthenay.frL'histoire universelle (fr)Universal History (en)ArchivedAdsabs.harvard.eduPagesperso-orange.frArchive.orgChikara Sasaki. Descartes' mathematical thought p.259Google BooksGoogle BooksGoogle Bookspp. 152 and onwardGoogle BooksGoogle BooksScribd.comGoogle Books1257-7979Google BooksGoogle BooksGoogle BooksGoogle BooksGoogle BooksGoogle BooksGallica.bnf.frGoogle BooksGoogle Books"François Viète"Francois Viète: Father of Modern Algebraic NotationThe Lawyer and the GamblerAbout TarporleySite de Jean-Paul GuichardL'algèbre nouvelle"About the Harmonicon"cb120511976(data)1188044800000 0001 0913 5903n82164680ola2013766880073431702w6vt1sb70287374827140948071409480