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Kitchen Sink Plumbing

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Kitchen Sink Plumbing


When does an under the sink P-Trap assembly need venting?How do I repair this friction ABS kitchen sink pipe fittingTailpiece too long for new chrome J-Bend in kitchen sink drain repairExtending sink drain rough in. Legal? Correct?How can I lower a dirty arm trap drain(outlet) to accommodate a lower sink?Backed up kitchen sink drain that gets worse when I run garbage disposalNew Kitchen Sink not draining properlyGarbage disposal drain is slightly higher than drain pipeStandard height for kitchen sink drain exit from wall?






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3















Just put a new sink in and was not lucky enough to have the plumbing line up. I have it roughed in and wanted some insight/opinions on whether this will work, or what I need to do to fix it. I have a slope leading from the disposal to the trap, but with the new larger sink, my p-trap is about 2" lower than it previously was. I used a J-bend to meet the drain tail piece to the drain tube. It seems like I am fighting gravity a bit too much now as the distance between the p-trap and the drain tube is quite large. Will this setup work or do I need to approach it a different way? enter image description here










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    3















    Just put a new sink in and was not lucky enough to have the plumbing line up. I have it roughed in and wanted some insight/opinions on whether this will work, or what I need to do to fix it. I have a slope leading from the disposal to the trap, but with the new larger sink, my p-trap is about 2" lower than it previously was. I used a J-bend to meet the drain tail piece to the drain tube. It seems like I am fighting gravity a bit too much now as the distance between the p-trap and the drain tube is quite large. Will this setup work or do I need to approach it a different way? enter image description here










    share|improve this question







    New contributor



    Christopher B is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
    Check out our Code of Conduct.























      3












      3








      3








      Just put a new sink in and was not lucky enough to have the plumbing line up. I have it roughed in and wanted some insight/opinions on whether this will work, or what I need to do to fix it. I have a slope leading from the disposal to the trap, but with the new larger sink, my p-trap is about 2" lower than it previously was. I used a J-bend to meet the drain tail piece to the drain tube. It seems like I am fighting gravity a bit too much now as the distance between the p-trap and the drain tube is quite large. Will this setup work or do I need to approach it a different way? enter image description here










      share|improve this question







      New contributor



      Christopher B is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.











      Just put a new sink in and was not lucky enough to have the plumbing line up. I have it roughed in and wanted some insight/opinions on whether this will work, or what I need to do to fix it. I have a slope leading from the disposal to the trap, but with the new larger sink, my p-trap is about 2" lower than it previously was. I used a J-bend to meet the drain tail piece to the drain tube. It seems like I am fighting gravity a bit too much now as the distance between the p-trap and the drain tube is quite large. Will this setup work or do I need to approach it a different way? enter image description here







      plumbing sink






      share|improve this question







      New contributor



      Christopher B is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.










      share|improve this question







      New contributor



      Christopher B is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.








      share|improve this question




      share|improve this question






      New contributor



      Christopher B is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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      asked 8 hours ago









      Christopher BChristopher B

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          4 Answers
          4






          active

          oldest

          votes


















          2
















          You DO realize you can (perhaps even "are supposed to") cut excess length from the slip-fit trap parts? They are supplied long, but don't need to STAY that way. You can cut most of the tube leading to the trap off, thus raising the trap.



          Opioninated commentary: I'd also lose the "flex section" on the other side of the trap - it is the part of this setup that will break first, by a long shot, in most cases. Also helps to promote clogs before then. You should be able to line rigid parts up by rotating them. In this case looks like you might also need to trim the "J tube" slip-fit end to make them line up right.






          share|improve this answer

























          • The slip-fit trap is cut. I used the old setup as a template and cut it down even more, there will still be about a 2 inch gap between the p-trap and the drain pipe. I think I just need to pull it out and start over with the advice I've gotten here so far.

            – Christopher B
            8 hours ago


















          2
















          The flange piece connected to the sink looks like it isn't mounted flush and could cause leaks. Readjusting the garbage disposal might fix that. It also looks like you have enough room to get rid of that adjustable trap and install a regular one. The "jog" in that trap and the excessive length will probably cause water to rise into that sink when you run the disposal.... Good luck.






          share|improve this answer

























          • Thanks, I will adjust that flange and see where I am falling short on the trap/drain connection.

            – Christopher B
            8 hours ago


















          2
















          In the OP's installation the last horizontal run going into the vertical drain appears to be slightly higher than the horizontal run coming from the disposer. I think this will cause the horizontal disposer run to retain liquid. It appears that some of any liquid waste going into the left sink drain would flow back into the disposer. It seems to me that the T in the final drain must be lower by 2 or 3 inches.



          See how it is done here (https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/kitchen-sinks-jpg.15470/):



          drains for double sink with disposer



          In the OP's installation the tailpiece from the sink appears to be out of alignment (at a slight angle) with the next piece below it. But this may be an illusion since it also appears to be the case in the installation shown above.






          share|improve this answer



























          • Thanks, that is exactly what i did!

            – Christopher B
            5 hours ago


















          2
















          Bring your Ptrap up or your Sanitary Tee down.



          AS noted by others you can cut the tail of the piece where it goes into the top of the Ptrap shorter ( thereby bringing the Ptrap up ), This will allow you to have the down hill slope you need for the disposal. You may need a longer tail piece from the bell on the basin into the tee from the disposal.



          OR



          I think this is the better option because your san tea is a little to high.



          You could cut your drain pipe shorter so the sanitary tee is lower.



          Use a regular Ptrap ( non flexible, there is no need for the debris catching flex connection here ).



          You also need to mount your air admittance valve properly. It is not high enough, put it as high up as you can in the space between the bowl and the back of the cabinet.



          If you put it on a threaded connection just above the san tee you will be able to pull it out to change it if necessary.






          share|improve this answer

























          • Thank you! I cut the drain pipe to lower the sanitary tee and it worked perfectly. Appreciate the help.

            – Christopher B
            14 mins ago













          Your Answer








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          4 Answers
          4






          active

          oldest

          votes








          4 Answers
          4






          active

          oldest

          votes









          active

          oldest

          votes






          active

          oldest

          votes









          2
















          You DO realize you can (perhaps even "are supposed to") cut excess length from the slip-fit trap parts? They are supplied long, but don't need to STAY that way. You can cut most of the tube leading to the trap off, thus raising the trap.



          Opioninated commentary: I'd also lose the "flex section" on the other side of the trap - it is the part of this setup that will break first, by a long shot, in most cases. Also helps to promote clogs before then. You should be able to line rigid parts up by rotating them. In this case looks like you might also need to trim the "J tube" slip-fit end to make them line up right.






          share|improve this answer

























          • The slip-fit trap is cut. I used the old setup as a template and cut it down even more, there will still be about a 2 inch gap between the p-trap and the drain pipe. I think I just need to pull it out and start over with the advice I've gotten here so far.

            – Christopher B
            8 hours ago















          2
















          You DO realize you can (perhaps even "are supposed to") cut excess length from the slip-fit trap parts? They are supplied long, but don't need to STAY that way. You can cut most of the tube leading to the trap off, thus raising the trap.



          Opioninated commentary: I'd also lose the "flex section" on the other side of the trap - it is the part of this setup that will break first, by a long shot, in most cases. Also helps to promote clogs before then. You should be able to line rigid parts up by rotating them. In this case looks like you might also need to trim the "J tube" slip-fit end to make them line up right.






          share|improve this answer

























          • The slip-fit trap is cut. I used the old setup as a template and cut it down even more, there will still be about a 2 inch gap between the p-trap and the drain pipe. I think I just need to pull it out and start over with the advice I've gotten here so far.

            – Christopher B
            8 hours ago













          2














          2










          2









          You DO realize you can (perhaps even "are supposed to") cut excess length from the slip-fit trap parts? They are supplied long, but don't need to STAY that way. You can cut most of the tube leading to the trap off, thus raising the trap.



          Opioninated commentary: I'd also lose the "flex section" on the other side of the trap - it is the part of this setup that will break first, by a long shot, in most cases. Also helps to promote clogs before then. You should be able to line rigid parts up by rotating them. In this case looks like you might also need to trim the "J tube" slip-fit end to make them line up right.






          share|improve this answer













          You DO realize you can (perhaps even "are supposed to") cut excess length from the slip-fit trap parts? They are supplied long, but don't need to STAY that way. You can cut most of the tube leading to the trap off, thus raising the trap.



          Opioninated commentary: I'd also lose the "flex section" on the other side of the trap - it is the part of this setup that will break first, by a long shot, in most cases. Also helps to promote clogs before then. You should be able to line rigid parts up by rotating them. In this case looks like you might also need to trim the "J tube" slip-fit end to make them line up right.







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered 8 hours ago









          EcnerwalEcnerwal

          61.2k2 gold badges51 silver badges104 bronze badges




          61.2k2 gold badges51 silver badges104 bronze badges















          • The slip-fit trap is cut. I used the old setup as a template and cut it down even more, there will still be about a 2 inch gap between the p-trap and the drain pipe. I think I just need to pull it out and start over with the advice I've gotten here so far.

            – Christopher B
            8 hours ago

















          • The slip-fit trap is cut. I used the old setup as a template and cut it down even more, there will still be about a 2 inch gap between the p-trap and the drain pipe. I think I just need to pull it out and start over with the advice I've gotten here so far.

            – Christopher B
            8 hours ago
















          The slip-fit trap is cut. I used the old setup as a template and cut it down even more, there will still be about a 2 inch gap between the p-trap and the drain pipe. I think I just need to pull it out and start over with the advice I've gotten here so far.

          – Christopher B
          8 hours ago





          The slip-fit trap is cut. I used the old setup as a template and cut it down even more, there will still be about a 2 inch gap between the p-trap and the drain pipe. I think I just need to pull it out and start over with the advice I've gotten here so far.

          – Christopher B
          8 hours ago













          2
















          The flange piece connected to the sink looks like it isn't mounted flush and could cause leaks. Readjusting the garbage disposal might fix that. It also looks like you have enough room to get rid of that adjustable trap and install a regular one. The "jog" in that trap and the excessive length will probably cause water to rise into that sink when you run the disposal.... Good luck.






          share|improve this answer

























          • Thanks, I will adjust that flange and see where I am falling short on the trap/drain connection.

            – Christopher B
            8 hours ago















          2
















          The flange piece connected to the sink looks like it isn't mounted flush and could cause leaks. Readjusting the garbage disposal might fix that. It also looks like you have enough room to get rid of that adjustable trap and install a regular one. The "jog" in that trap and the excessive length will probably cause water to rise into that sink when you run the disposal.... Good luck.






          share|improve this answer

























          • Thanks, I will adjust that flange and see where I am falling short on the trap/drain connection.

            – Christopher B
            8 hours ago













          2














          2










          2









          The flange piece connected to the sink looks like it isn't mounted flush and could cause leaks. Readjusting the garbage disposal might fix that. It also looks like you have enough room to get rid of that adjustable trap and install a regular one. The "jog" in that trap and the excessive length will probably cause water to rise into that sink when you run the disposal.... Good luck.






          share|improve this answer













          The flange piece connected to the sink looks like it isn't mounted flush and could cause leaks. Readjusting the garbage disposal might fix that. It also looks like you have enough room to get rid of that adjustable trap and install a regular one. The "jog" in that trap and the excessive length will probably cause water to rise into that sink when you run the disposal.... Good luck.







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered 8 hours ago









          JACKJACK

          4,0202 silver badges13 bronze badges




          4,0202 silver badges13 bronze badges















          • Thanks, I will adjust that flange and see where I am falling short on the trap/drain connection.

            – Christopher B
            8 hours ago

















          • Thanks, I will adjust that flange and see where I am falling short on the trap/drain connection.

            – Christopher B
            8 hours ago
















          Thanks, I will adjust that flange and see where I am falling short on the trap/drain connection.

          – Christopher B
          8 hours ago





          Thanks, I will adjust that flange and see where I am falling short on the trap/drain connection.

          – Christopher B
          8 hours ago











          2
















          In the OP's installation the last horizontal run going into the vertical drain appears to be slightly higher than the horizontal run coming from the disposer. I think this will cause the horizontal disposer run to retain liquid. It appears that some of any liquid waste going into the left sink drain would flow back into the disposer. It seems to me that the T in the final drain must be lower by 2 or 3 inches.



          See how it is done here (https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/kitchen-sinks-jpg.15470/):



          drains for double sink with disposer



          In the OP's installation the tailpiece from the sink appears to be out of alignment (at a slight angle) with the next piece below it. But this may be an illusion since it also appears to be the case in the installation shown above.






          share|improve this answer



























          • Thanks, that is exactly what i did!

            – Christopher B
            5 hours ago















          2
















          In the OP's installation the last horizontal run going into the vertical drain appears to be slightly higher than the horizontal run coming from the disposer. I think this will cause the horizontal disposer run to retain liquid. It appears that some of any liquid waste going into the left sink drain would flow back into the disposer. It seems to me that the T in the final drain must be lower by 2 or 3 inches.



          See how it is done here (https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/kitchen-sinks-jpg.15470/):



          drains for double sink with disposer



          In the OP's installation the tailpiece from the sink appears to be out of alignment (at a slight angle) with the next piece below it. But this may be an illusion since it also appears to be the case in the installation shown above.






          share|improve this answer



























          • Thanks, that is exactly what i did!

            – Christopher B
            5 hours ago













          2














          2










          2









          In the OP's installation the last horizontal run going into the vertical drain appears to be slightly higher than the horizontal run coming from the disposer. I think this will cause the horizontal disposer run to retain liquid. It appears that some of any liquid waste going into the left sink drain would flow back into the disposer. It seems to me that the T in the final drain must be lower by 2 or 3 inches.



          See how it is done here (https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/kitchen-sinks-jpg.15470/):



          drains for double sink with disposer



          In the OP's installation the tailpiece from the sink appears to be out of alignment (at a slight angle) with the next piece below it. But this may be an illusion since it also appears to be the case in the installation shown above.






          share|improve this answer















          In the OP's installation the last horizontal run going into the vertical drain appears to be slightly higher than the horizontal run coming from the disposer. I think this will cause the horizontal disposer run to retain liquid. It appears that some of any liquid waste going into the left sink drain would flow back into the disposer. It seems to me that the T in the final drain must be lower by 2 or 3 inches.



          See how it is done here (https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/kitchen-sinks-jpg.15470/):



          drains for double sink with disposer



          In the OP's installation the tailpiece from the sink appears to be out of alignment (at a slight angle) with the next piece below it. But this may be an illusion since it also appears to be the case in the installation shown above.







          share|improve this answer














          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer








          edited 5 hours ago

























          answered 6 hours ago









          Jim StewartJim Stewart

          13.3k1 gold badge14 silver badges32 bronze badges




          13.3k1 gold badge14 silver badges32 bronze badges















          • Thanks, that is exactly what i did!

            – Christopher B
            5 hours ago

















          • Thanks, that is exactly what i did!

            – Christopher B
            5 hours ago
















          Thanks, that is exactly what i did!

          – Christopher B
          5 hours ago





          Thanks, that is exactly what i did!

          – Christopher B
          5 hours ago











          2
















          Bring your Ptrap up or your Sanitary Tee down.



          AS noted by others you can cut the tail of the piece where it goes into the top of the Ptrap shorter ( thereby bringing the Ptrap up ), This will allow you to have the down hill slope you need for the disposal. You may need a longer tail piece from the bell on the basin into the tee from the disposal.



          OR



          I think this is the better option because your san tea is a little to high.



          You could cut your drain pipe shorter so the sanitary tee is lower.



          Use a regular Ptrap ( non flexible, there is no need for the debris catching flex connection here ).



          You also need to mount your air admittance valve properly. It is not high enough, put it as high up as you can in the space between the bowl and the back of the cabinet.



          If you put it on a threaded connection just above the san tee you will be able to pull it out to change it if necessary.






          share|improve this answer

























          • Thank you! I cut the drain pipe to lower the sanitary tee and it worked perfectly. Appreciate the help.

            – Christopher B
            14 mins ago















          2
















          Bring your Ptrap up or your Sanitary Tee down.



          AS noted by others you can cut the tail of the piece where it goes into the top of the Ptrap shorter ( thereby bringing the Ptrap up ), This will allow you to have the down hill slope you need for the disposal. You may need a longer tail piece from the bell on the basin into the tee from the disposal.



          OR



          I think this is the better option because your san tea is a little to high.



          You could cut your drain pipe shorter so the sanitary tee is lower.



          Use a regular Ptrap ( non flexible, there is no need for the debris catching flex connection here ).



          You also need to mount your air admittance valve properly. It is not high enough, put it as high up as you can in the space between the bowl and the back of the cabinet.



          If you put it on a threaded connection just above the san tee you will be able to pull it out to change it if necessary.






          share|improve this answer

























          • Thank you! I cut the drain pipe to lower the sanitary tee and it worked perfectly. Appreciate the help.

            – Christopher B
            14 mins ago













          2














          2










          2









          Bring your Ptrap up or your Sanitary Tee down.



          AS noted by others you can cut the tail of the piece where it goes into the top of the Ptrap shorter ( thereby bringing the Ptrap up ), This will allow you to have the down hill slope you need for the disposal. You may need a longer tail piece from the bell on the basin into the tee from the disposal.



          OR



          I think this is the better option because your san tea is a little to high.



          You could cut your drain pipe shorter so the sanitary tee is lower.



          Use a regular Ptrap ( non flexible, there is no need for the debris catching flex connection here ).



          You also need to mount your air admittance valve properly. It is not high enough, put it as high up as you can in the space between the bowl and the back of the cabinet.



          If you put it on a threaded connection just above the san tee you will be able to pull it out to change it if necessary.






          share|improve this answer













          Bring your Ptrap up or your Sanitary Tee down.



          AS noted by others you can cut the tail of the piece where it goes into the top of the Ptrap shorter ( thereby bringing the Ptrap up ), This will allow you to have the down hill slope you need for the disposal. You may need a longer tail piece from the bell on the basin into the tee from the disposal.



          OR



          I think this is the better option because your san tea is a little to high.



          You could cut your drain pipe shorter so the sanitary tee is lower.



          Use a regular Ptrap ( non flexible, there is no need for the debris catching flex connection here ).



          You also need to mount your air admittance valve properly. It is not high enough, put it as high up as you can in the space between the bowl and the back of the cabinet.



          If you put it on a threaded connection just above the san tee you will be able to pull it out to change it if necessary.







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered 5 hours ago









          Alaska ManAlaska Man

          4,7605 silver badges13 bronze badges




          4,7605 silver badges13 bronze badges















          • Thank you! I cut the drain pipe to lower the sanitary tee and it worked perfectly. Appreciate the help.

            – Christopher B
            14 mins ago

















          • Thank you! I cut the drain pipe to lower the sanitary tee and it worked perfectly. Appreciate the help.

            – Christopher B
            14 mins ago
















          Thank you! I cut the drain pipe to lower the sanitary tee and it worked perfectly. Appreciate the help.

          – Christopher B
          14 mins ago





          Thank you! I cut the drain pipe to lower the sanitary tee and it worked perfectly. Appreciate the help.

          – Christopher B
          14 mins ago











          Christopher B is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.









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          Christopher B is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.











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