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How to identify the wires on the dimmer to convert it to Conventional on/off switch

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How to identify the wires on the dimmer to convert it to Conventional on/off switch


How do I replace this dimmer switch to a conventional switch?How do I replace this dimmer switch to a conventional switch?How do I replace this switch with a dimmer?Replace a dimmer switch with a regular light switchReplacing Non-Working Single-Pole Dimmer SwitchReplacing Dimmer with Switch - Online Examples Don't Match My SetupReplacing a dimmer switch to a normal switchWhat kind of standard switch do I need to replace this dimmer?Leviton Dimmer Switch Model DW1KDReplace light switch connected to a power outlet with dimmer - two black wires to one black and redHelp replacing a dimmer switch






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1















I have a dimmer switch that I need to convert to a conventional on/off switch. I have checked this link for guidance already: How do I replace this dimmer switch to a conventional switch?



It seems like I will need a 3-way switch do replace this. I am having very hard time understanding the wiring and how to connect this to a 3-way switch.



This is what I have:



  1. Green from dimmer -> connected to 3 white wires in the outlet box

  2. One black -> connected to one black in the outlet box

  3. Other black -> connected to two black wires in the outlet box

Circuit Diagram



I had an electrician convert a similar dimmer switch to a conventional on/off switch in the past and this is what he did.



Simple Switch



Basically, in this he has done this:



  1. One black going to the bottom hole

  2. Second black going to the bottom screw

  3. Third black going to the top hole

  4. Nothing on the top screw

Can someone please help me make sense of this and help me with:



  1. Confirm the switch type I need

  2. The circuit and connections needed

Solution Pics (solution provided by Ed and Carl in the comments):



Wire Connection (I did not use the pigtail connection, in the lower screw with 2 wires together, although that is what everybody is recommending):



Wire Connection for the solution










share|improve this question









New contributor



Aman Sharma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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  • Harper's gonna love the backstabs.

    – JACK
    2 hours ago

















1















I have a dimmer switch that I need to convert to a conventional on/off switch. I have checked this link for guidance already: How do I replace this dimmer switch to a conventional switch?



It seems like I will need a 3-way switch do replace this. I am having very hard time understanding the wiring and how to connect this to a 3-way switch.



This is what I have:



  1. Green from dimmer -> connected to 3 white wires in the outlet box

  2. One black -> connected to one black in the outlet box

  3. Other black -> connected to two black wires in the outlet box

Circuit Diagram



I had an electrician convert a similar dimmer switch to a conventional on/off switch in the past and this is what he did.



Simple Switch



Basically, in this he has done this:



  1. One black going to the bottom hole

  2. Second black going to the bottom screw

  3. Third black going to the top hole

  4. Nothing on the top screw

Can someone please help me make sense of this and help me with:



  1. Confirm the switch type I need

  2. The circuit and connections needed

Solution Pics (solution provided by Ed and Carl in the comments):



Wire Connection (I did not use the pigtail connection, in the lower screw with 2 wires together, although that is what everybody is recommending):



Wire Connection for the solution










share|improve this question









New contributor



Aman Sharma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





















  • Harper's gonna love the backstabs.

    – JACK
    2 hours ago













1












1








1








I have a dimmer switch that I need to convert to a conventional on/off switch. I have checked this link for guidance already: How do I replace this dimmer switch to a conventional switch?



It seems like I will need a 3-way switch do replace this. I am having very hard time understanding the wiring and how to connect this to a 3-way switch.



This is what I have:



  1. Green from dimmer -> connected to 3 white wires in the outlet box

  2. One black -> connected to one black in the outlet box

  3. Other black -> connected to two black wires in the outlet box

Circuit Diagram



I had an electrician convert a similar dimmer switch to a conventional on/off switch in the past and this is what he did.



Simple Switch



Basically, in this he has done this:



  1. One black going to the bottom hole

  2. Second black going to the bottom screw

  3. Third black going to the top hole

  4. Nothing on the top screw

Can someone please help me make sense of this and help me with:



  1. Confirm the switch type I need

  2. The circuit and connections needed

Solution Pics (solution provided by Ed and Carl in the comments):



Wire Connection (I did not use the pigtail connection, in the lower screw with 2 wires together, although that is what everybody is recommending):



Wire Connection for the solution










share|improve this question









New contributor



Aman Sharma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











I have a dimmer switch that I need to convert to a conventional on/off switch. I have checked this link for guidance already: How do I replace this dimmer switch to a conventional switch?



It seems like I will need a 3-way switch do replace this. I am having very hard time understanding the wiring and how to connect this to a 3-way switch.



This is what I have:



  1. Green from dimmer -> connected to 3 white wires in the outlet box

  2. One black -> connected to one black in the outlet box

  3. Other black -> connected to two black wires in the outlet box

Circuit Diagram



I had an electrician convert a similar dimmer switch to a conventional on/off switch in the past and this is what he did.



Simple Switch



Basically, in this he has done this:



  1. One black going to the bottom hole

  2. Second black going to the bottom screw

  3. Third black going to the top hole

  4. Nothing on the top screw

Can someone please help me make sense of this and help me with:



  1. Confirm the switch type I need

  2. The circuit and connections needed

Solution Pics (solution provided by Ed and Carl in the comments):



Wire Connection (I did not use the pigtail connection, in the lower screw with 2 wires together, although that is what everybody is recommending):



Wire Connection for the solution







electrical switch dimmer-switch






share|improve this question









New contributor



Aman Sharma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.










share|improve this question









New contributor



Aman Sharma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.








share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 2 hours ago







Aman Sharma













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asked 9 hours ago









Aman SharmaAman Sharma

1085 bronze badges




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New contributor




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Check out our Code of Conduct.

















  • Harper's gonna love the backstabs.

    – JACK
    2 hours ago

















  • Harper's gonna love the backstabs.

    – JACK
    2 hours ago
















Harper's gonna love the backstabs.

– JACK
2 hours ago





Harper's gonna love the backstabs.

– JACK
2 hours ago










3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes


















3














You do not need the green wire that is going to the neutral(s) remove that. There is a ground connected to the box in the back so on your new switches remove the paper “nut” or screw retainers prior to installing the switch. The last part is put the single wire on 1 lug of your new switch then the 2 blacks pigtail to the other lug. You only need a standard switch SPST single pole single throw. You could use a double pole switch but one of the screws would be not used I have done that when I had a extra 3 way and not enough single poles it will work fine and would not violate code, switch down when on turn it over or swap to the other traveler.






share|improve this answer

























  • Thanks Ed that worked for me. I have added a solution pic as well.

    – Aman Sharma
    2 hours ago


















2














It appears that this is a common situation where the switch is "tapping" a run of source 120V. The bundle of black wires includes the source, a connection to your switch, and a connection downstream to other items. Ditto for the bundle of white return wires.



The single pair of black wires is almost certainly the connection to the hot side of the light fixture. The green feed from the dimmer, which is connected to the returns, is there so that the circuitry in the dimmer itself has a return path. The new non-dimmer switch is simply a "make/break" in the hot (black) line, so it doesn't need that return. It should, however, have a screw somewhere on the side to connect to a ground lead in your box. However, I don't see any ground wiring in either of your photos.






share|improve this answer

























  • Thanks Carl for your response! It definitely helped!

    – Aman Sharma
    2 hours ago


















1














Wires that are green, yellow/green stripe, or bare, are always and only Protective Earth aka Equipment Safety Ground. They must only be connected to each other and never anything else. That makes the green-white splice WRONG, and it should be removed immediately and attached to real ground where it belongs.



Protective Earth is always a safety shield, and never figures into the actual wiring, so it is excluded from your thinking about how to arrange wires.



Now, voilà! Things are simple. The two remaining black wires must be the wires to the switch.






share|improve this answer





























    Your Answer








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    3 Answers
    3






    active

    oldest

    votes








    3 Answers
    3






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    3














    You do not need the green wire that is going to the neutral(s) remove that. There is a ground connected to the box in the back so on your new switches remove the paper “nut” or screw retainers prior to installing the switch. The last part is put the single wire on 1 lug of your new switch then the 2 blacks pigtail to the other lug. You only need a standard switch SPST single pole single throw. You could use a double pole switch but one of the screws would be not used I have done that when I had a extra 3 way and not enough single poles it will work fine and would not violate code, switch down when on turn it over or swap to the other traveler.






    share|improve this answer

























    • Thanks Ed that worked for me. I have added a solution pic as well.

      – Aman Sharma
      2 hours ago















    3














    You do not need the green wire that is going to the neutral(s) remove that. There is a ground connected to the box in the back so on your new switches remove the paper “nut” or screw retainers prior to installing the switch. The last part is put the single wire on 1 lug of your new switch then the 2 blacks pigtail to the other lug. You only need a standard switch SPST single pole single throw. You could use a double pole switch but one of the screws would be not used I have done that when I had a extra 3 way and not enough single poles it will work fine and would not violate code, switch down when on turn it over or swap to the other traveler.






    share|improve this answer

























    • Thanks Ed that worked for me. I have added a solution pic as well.

      – Aman Sharma
      2 hours ago













    3












    3








    3







    You do not need the green wire that is going to the neutral(s) remove that. There is a ground connected to the box in the back so on your new switches remove the paper “nut” or screw retainers prior to installing the switch. The last part is put the single wire on 1 lug of your new switch then the 2 blacks pigtail to the other lug. You only need a standard switch SPST single pole single throw. You could use a double pole switch but one of the screws would be not used I have done that when I had a extra 3 way and not enough single poles it will work fine and would not violate code, switch down when on turn it over or swap to the other traveler.






    share|improve this answer













    You do not need the green wire that is going to the neutral(s) remove that. There is a ground connected to the box in the back so on your new switches remove the paper “nut” or screw retainers prior to installing the switch. The last part is put the single wire on 1 lug of your new switch then the 2 blacks pigtail to the other lug. You only need a standard switch SPST single pole single throw. You could use a double pole switch but one of the screws would be not used I have done that when I had a extra 3 way and not enough single poles it will work fine and would not violate code, switch down when on turn it over or swap to the other traveler.







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered 5 hours ago









    Ed BealEd Beal

    37.7k1 gold badge25 silver badges54 bronze badges




    37.7k1 gold badge25 silver badges54 bronze badges















    • Thanks Ed that worked for me. I have added a solution pic as well.

      – Aman Sharma
      2 hours ago

















    • Thanks Ed that worked for me. I have added a solution pic as well.

      – Aman Sharma
      2 hours ago
















    Thanks Ed that worked for me. I have added a solution pic as well.

    – Aman Sharma
    2 hours ago





    Thanks Ed that worked for me. I have added a solution pic as well.

    – Aman Sharma
    2 hours ago













    2














    It appears that this is a common situation where the switch is "tapping" a run of source 120V. The bundle of black wires includes the source, a connection to your switch, and a connection downstream to other items. Ditto for the bundle of white return wires.



    The single pair of black wires is almost certainly the connection to the hot side of the light fixture. The green feed from the dimmer, which is connected to the returns, is there so that the circuitry in the dimmer itself has a return path. The new non-dimmer switch is simply a "make/break" in the hot (black) line, so it doesn't need that return. It should, however, have a screw somewhere on the side to connect to a ground lead in your box. However, I don't see any ground wiring in either of your photos.






    share|improve this answer

























    • Thanks Carl for your response! It definitely helped!

      – Aman Sharma
      2 hours ago















    2














    It appears that this is a common situation where the switch is "tapping" a run of source 120V. The bundle of black wires includes the source, a connection to your switch, and a connection downstream to other items. Ditto for the bundle of white return wires.



    The single pair of black wires is almost certainly the connection to the hot side of the light fixture. The green feed from the dimmer, which is connected to the returns, is there so that the circuitry in the dimmer itself has a return path. The new non-dimmer switch is simply a "make/break" in the hot (black) line, so it doesn't need that return. It should, however, have a screw somewhere on the side to connect to a ground lead in your box. However, I don't see any ground wiring in either of your photos.






    share|improve this answer

























    • Thanks Carl for your response! It definitely helped!

      – Aman Sharma
      2 hours ago













    2












    2








    2







    It appears that this is a common situation where the switch is "tapping" a run of source 120V. The bundle of black wires includes the source, a connection to your switch, and a connection downstream to other items. Ditto for the bundle of white return wires.



    The single pair of black wires is almost certainly the connection to the hot side of the light fixture. The green feed from the dimmer, which is connected to the returns, is there so that the circuitry in the dimmer itself has a return path. The new non-dimmer switch is simply a "make/break" in the hot (black) line, so it doesn't need that return. It should, however, have a screw somewhere on the side to connect to a ground lead in your box. However, I don't see any ground wiring in either of your photos.






    share|improve this answer













    It appears that this is a common situation where the switch is "tapping" a run of source 120V. The bundle of black wires includes the source, a connection to your switch, and a connection downstream to other items. Ditto for the bundle of white return wires.



    The single pair of black wires is almost certainly the connection to the hot side of the light fixture. The green feed from the dimmer, which is connected to the returns, is there so that the circuitry in the dimmer itself has a return path. The new non-dimmer switch is simply a "make/break" in the hot (black) line, so it doesn't need that return. It should, however, have a screw somewhere on the side to connect to a ground lead in your box. However, I don't see any ground wiring in either of your photos.







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered 8 hours ago









    Carl WitthoftCarl Witthoft

    2,1477 silver badges12 bronze badges




    2,1477 silver badges12 bronze badges















    • Thanks Carl for your response! It definitely helped!

      – Aman Sharma
      2 hours ago

















    • Thanks Carl for your response! It definitely helped!

      – Aman Sharma
      2 hours ago
















    Thanks Carl for your response! It definitely helped!

    – Aman Sharma
    2 hours ago





    Thanks Carl for your response! It definitely helped!

    – Aman Sharma
    2 hours ago











    1














    Wires that are green, yellow/green stripe, or bare, are always and only Protective Earth aka Equipment Safety Ground. They must only be connected to each other and never anything else. That makes the green-white splice WRONG, and it should be removed immediately and attached to real ground where it belongs.



    Protective Earth is always a safety shield, and never figures into the actual wiring, so it is excluded from your thinking about how to arrange wires.



    Now, voilà! Things are simple. The two remaining black wires must be the wires to the switch.






    share|improve this answer































      1














      Wires that are green, yellow/green stripe, or bare, are always and only Protective Earth aka Equipment Safety Ground. They must only be connected to each other and never anything else. That makes the green-white splice WRONG, and it should be removed immediately and attached to real ground where it belongs.



      Protective Earth is always a safety shield, and never figures into the actual wiring, so it is excluded from your thinking about how to arrange wires.



      Now, voilà! Things are simple. The two remaining black wires must be the wires to the switch.






      share|improve this answer





























        1












        1








        1







        Wires that are green, yellow/green stripe, or bare, are always and only Protective Earth aka Equipment Safety Ground. They must only be connected to each other and never anything else. That makes the green-white splice WRONG, and it should be removed immediately and attached to real ground where it belongs.



        Protective Earth is always a safety shield, and never figures into the actual wiring, so it is excluded from your thinking about how to arrange wires.



        Now, voilà! Things are simple. The two remaining black wires must be the wires to the switch.






        share|improve this answer















        Wires that are green, yellow/green stripe, or bare, are always and only Protective Earth aka Equipment Safety Ground. They must only be connected to each other and never anything else. That makes the green-white splice WRONG, and it should be removed immediately and attached to real ground where it belongs.



        Protective Earth is always a safety shield, and never figures into the actual wiring, so it is excluded from your thinking about how to arrange wires.



        Now, voilà! Things are simple. The two remaining black wires must be the wires to the switch.







        share|improve this answer














        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer








        edited 1 hour ago









        manassehkatz

        16.1k1 gold badge23 silver badges50 bronze badges




        16.1k1 gold badge23 silver badges50 bronze badges










        answered 1 hour ago









        HarperHarper

        91k6 gold badges66 silver badges188 bronze badges




        91k6 gold badges66 silver badges188 bronze badges























            Aman Sharma is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.









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