Transition from ascending to descending a ropeQuickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear?Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?Is it ok to use rolled aluminum descending rings in permanent anchors?What is the difference between “dry rope”, “non-dry rope” and “dry core rope”?What are the dangers of descending/rappeling very quickly?Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear?How to avoid tangling up the rope when throwing it before rappelling?What do you do when you're rappelling a halfed rope and you run out of rope on one side?Can I use SteriGENE broad spectrum disinfectant on abseil rope?is it safe to use a 4mm cord for French Prusik auto-block friction hitch when rappelling off parallel 10mm dynamic rope?Rappel: How do I start rappel from a ledge when using rappel extension
What determines the "strength of impact" of a falling object on the ground, momentum or energy?
Should I tell my insurance company I'm making payments on my new car?
Does the UK have a written constitution?
Was touching your nose a greeting in second millenium Mesopotamia?
How to get cool night-vision without lame drawbacks?
Why does the numerical solution of an ODE move away from an unstable equilibrium?
C-152 carb heat on before landing in hot weather?
Averting Real Women Don’t Wear Dresses
Find smallest index that is identical to the value in an array
Does squid ink pasta bleed?
How should I behave to assure my friends that I am not after their money?
Why is C++ initial allocation so much larger than C's?
Should I include salary information on my CV?
Analog is Obtuse!
Pull-up sequence accumulator counter
Why does adding parentheses prevent an error?
How can I convince my reader that I will not use a certain trope?
MH370 blackbox - is it still possible to retrieve data from it?
Inverse-quotes-quine
Is it okay to visually align the elements in a logo?
How can I repair scratches on a painted French door?
Links to webpages in books
A player is constantly pestering me about rules, what do I do as a DM?
Is my Rep in Stack-Exchange Form?
Transition from ascending to descending a rope
Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear?Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?Is it ok to use rolled aluminum descending rings in permanent anchors?What is the difference between “dry rope”, “non-dry rope” and “dry core rope”?What are the dangers of descending/rappeling very quickly?Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear?How to avoid tangling up the rope when throwing it before rappelling?What do you do when you're rappelling a halfed rope and you run out of rope on one side?Can I use SteriGENE broad spectrum disinfectant on abseil rope?is it safe to use a 4mm cord for French Prusik auto-block friction hitch when rappelling off parallel 10mm dynamic rope?Rappel: How do I start rappel from a ledge when using rappel extension
.everyoneloves__top-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__mid-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__bot-mid-leaderboard:empty margin-bottom:0;
Consider an ascension of a single rope with an ATC guide in locking mode and a foot loop with a friction hitch, as described in this answer:
Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear?
Now assume the ascent has ended mid-rope (i.e. no stable anchor to hook in to) and the climber wants to transition to a rappel.
What is the safest and most simple method of flipping the ATC guide and the entire system out of auto-locking mode and back into a typical rappel mode?
rock-climbing climbing rappelling tree-climbing
New contributor
add a comment |
Consider an ascension of a single rope with an ATC guide in locking mode and a foot loop with a friction hitch, as described in this answer:
Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear?
Now assume the ascent has ended mid-rope (i.e. no stable anchor to hook in to) and the climber wants to transition to a rappel.
What is the safest and most simple method of flipping the ATC guide and the entire system out of auto-locking mode and back into a typical rappel mode?
rock-climbing climbing rappelling tree-climbing
New contributor
add a comment |
Consider an ascension of a single rope with an ATC guide in locking mode and a foot loop with a friction hitch, as described in this answer:
Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear?
Now assume the ascent has ended mid-rope (i.e. no stable anchor to hook in to) and the climber wants to transition to a rappel.
What is the safest and most simple method of flipping the ATC guide and the entire system out of auto-locking mode and back into a typical rappel mode?
rock-climbing climbing rappelling tree-climbing
New contributor
Consider an ascension of a single rope with an ATC guide in locking mode and a foot loop with a friction hitch, as described in this answer:
Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear?
Now assume the ascent has ended mid-rope (i.e. no stable anchor to hook in to) and the climber wants to transition to a rappel.
What is the safest and most simple method of flipping the ATC guide and the entire system out of auto-locking mode and back into a typical rappel mode?
rock-climbing climbing rappelling tree-climbing
rock-climbing climbing rappelling tree-climbing
New contributor
New contributor
edited 6 hours ago
Yuval Adam
New contributor
asked 8 hours ago
Yuval AdamYuval Adam
1193 bronze badges
1193 bronze badges
New contributor
New contributor
add a comment |
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
Ascending a fixed rope using an ATC guide in lead mode is totally valid, but it is not the "quickest" method (IMHO). Usually what is taught in basic climbing and self rescue courses is to ascend with two prusik loops: One for you foot, and one for your weight. Ascending with an ATC is ok because it is more "fail proof", though.
The reason I mentioned using two prusiks is more basic is because my answer includes transitioning to a prusik loop in order to re-set your ATC in abseil mode. The process is simple and intuitive: Suppose you have the exact situation described in your picture, where you use a loop for your foot placed above the ATC and have your weight placed in the ATC itself. Now you should:
- Take a second prusik loop and use it to grab the rope above your foot loop (with a marchant knot or some variation), clipping your personal anchoring system (PAS) into it, creating a primary;
Do exactly the same procedure you were doing before, but instead of taking slack in through your ATC, move the primary upwards - this means that when you rest, your weight will be placed on the primary above, not on the ATC;
Move your second loop (the one you were using for your foot) upwards until it comes near the primary, clipping a sling to it and using it as a backup;
You are now attached to two prusik loops above your ATC device, so you have a primary fixed point and a backup. You are ready to disconnect your ATC in lead mode, which is now absolutely unweighted. Do so and reposition it in abseil mode, using a third prusik as a backup under the ATC to catch the rope (this backup prusik can be the loop you're using as a backup, since the rope is already passed through your ATC and you don't need two backups);
Your weight now rests on the primary, and your ATC is ready to be abseiled from. Take a long quickdraw, a loop or anything you can step on, and place it on the primary itself. Step on it grabbing your PAS to balance as you take the rope slack in through your ATC, adjusting the backup below it or simply using your hand in order to pass the weight to the ATC;
- Your weight is now placed on the ATC and everything else is free to be removed. Take everything out of the rope and abseil.
add a comment |
Whatever you do, you will need to take off the load from the tuber in locking mode. So I'd use the same technique as when going over a knot (well there's probably more than one technique for that, but this is the one I know and use (luckily for training only till now)), just adapted to the ascending setup you are in:
Take a cordelette and make a prusik (or blocking knot of your choice) just above the ATC/tuber leaving one end rather short and secure that end (double fishermen's). Then attach the other end to a biner on your harness with a Munter hitch, which you then secure with a releasable blocking knot. Then use your blue loop to get load off the tuber and pull on the upper shackle of the tuber to let rope go through until your weight rests in the newly added cordelette. Now attache your usual backup prusik for abseiling below, also getting some loose rope up to work with. Then change the tuber to descending mode. Once all is set and double checked, release the blocking knot and lower yourself with the munter, until the load is in the tuber/backup prusik. Then remove the cordelette and start abseiling.
add a comment |
Your Answer
StackExchange.ready(function()
var channelOptions =
tags: "".split(" "),
id: "395"
;
initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);
StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function()
// Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled)
StackExchange.using("snippets", function()
createEditor();
);
else
createEditor();
);
function createEditor()
StackExchange.prepareEditor(
heartbeatType: 'answer',
autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
convertImagesToLinks: false,
noModals: true,
showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
reputationToPostImages: null,
bindNavPrevention: true,
postfix: "",
imageUploader:
brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
allowUrls: true
,
noCode: true, onDemand: true,
discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
);
);
Yuval Adam is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function ()
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2foutdoors.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f22453%2ftransition-from-ascending-to-descending-a-rope%23new-answer', 'question_page');
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
Ascending a fixed rope using an ATC guide in lead mode is totally valid, but it is not the "quickest" method (IMHO). Usually what is taught in basic climbing and self rescue courses is to ascend with two prusik loops: One for you foot, and one for your weight. Ascending with an ATC is ok because it is more "fail proof", though.
The reason I mentioned using two prusiks is more basic is because my answer includes transitioning to a prusik loop in order to re-set your ATC in abseil mode. The process is simple and intuitive: Suppose you have the exact situation described in your picture, where you use a loop for your foot placed above the ATC and have your weight placed in the ATC itself. Now you should:
- Take a second prusik loop and use it to grab the rope above your foot loop (with a marchant knot or some variation), clipping your personal anchoring system (PAS) into it, creating a primary;
Do exactly the same procedure you were doing before, but instead of taking slack in through your ATC, move the primary upwards - this means that when you rest, your weight will be placed on the primary above, not on the ATC;
Move your second loop (the one you were using for your foot) upwards until it comes near the primary, clipping a sling to it and using it as a backup;
You are now attached to two prusik loops above your ATC device, so you have a primary fixed point and a backup. You are ready to disconnect your ATC in lead mode, which is now absolutely unweighted. Do so and reposition it in abseil mode, using a third prusik as a backup under the ATC to catch the rope (this backup prusik can be the loop you're using as a backup, since the rope is already passed through your ATC and you don't need two backups);
Your weight now rests on the primary, and your ATC is ready to be abseiled from. Take a long quickdraw, a loop or anything you can step on, and place it on the primary itself. Step on it grabbing your PAS to balance as you take the rope slack in through your ATC, adjusting the backup below it or simply using your hand in order to pass the weight to the ATC;
- Your weight is now placed on the ATC and everything else is free to be removed. Take everything out of the rope and abseil.
add a comment |
Ascending a fixed rope using an ATC guide in lead mode is totally valid, but it is not the "quickest" method (IMHO). Usually what is taught in basic climbing and self rescue courses is to ascend with two prusik loops: One for you foot, and one for your weight. Ascending with an ATC is ok because it is more "fail proof", though.
The reason I mentioned using two prusiks is more basic is because my answer includes transitioning to a prusik loop in order to re-set your ATC in abseil mode. The process is simple and intuitive: Suppose you have the exact situation described in your picture, where you use a loop for your foot placed above the ATC and have your weight placed in the ATC itself. Now you should:
- Take a second prusik loop and use it to grab the rope above your foot loop (with a marchant knot or some variation), clipping your personal anchoring system (PAS) into it, creating a primary;
Do exactly the same procedure you were doing before, but instead of taking slack in through your ATC, move the primary upwards - this means that when you rest, your weight will be placed on the primary above, not on the ATC;
Move your second loop (the one you were using for your foot) upwards until it comes near the primary, clipping a sling to it and using it as a backup;
You are now attached to two prusik loops above your ATC device, so you have a primary fixed point and a backup. You are ready to disconnect your ATC in lead mode, which is now absolutely unweighted. Do so and reposition it in abseil mode, using a third prusik as a backup under the ATC to catch the rope (this backup prusik can be the loop you're using as a backup, since the rope is already passed through your ATC and you don't need two backups);
Your weight now rests on the primary, and your ATC is ready to be abseiled from. Take a long quickdraw, a loop or anything you can step on, and place it on the primary itself. Step on it grabbing your PAS to balance as you take the rope slack in through your ATC, adjusting the backup below it or simply using your hand in order to pass the weight to the ATC;
- Your weight is now placed on the ATC and everything else is free to be removed. Take everything out of the rope and abseil.
add a comment |
Ascending a fixed rope using an ATC guide in lead mode is totally valid, but it is not the "quickest" method (IMHO). Usually what is taught in basic climbing and self rescue courses is to ascend with two prusik loops: One for you foot, and one for your weight. Ascending with an ATC is ok because it is more "fail proof", though.
The reason I mentioned using two prusiks is more basic is because my answer includes transitioning to a prusik loop in order to re-set your ATC in abseil mode. The process is simple and intuitive: Suppose you have the exact situation described in your picture, where you use a loop for your foot placed above the ATC and have your weight placed in the ATC itself. Now you should:
- Take a second prusik loop and use it to grab the rope above your foot loop (with a marchant knot or some variation), clipping your personal anchoring system (PAS) into it, creating a primary;
Do exactly the same procedure you were doing before, but instead of taking slack in through your ATC, move the primary upwards - this means that when you rest, your weight will be placed on the primary above, not on the ATC;
Move your second loop (the one you were using for your foot) upwards until it comes near the primary, clipping a sling to it and using it as a backup;
You are now attached to two prusik loops above your ATC device, so you have a primary fixed point and a backup. You are ready to disconnect your ATC in lead mode, which is now absolutely unweighted. Do so and reposition it in abseil mode, using a third prusik as a backup under the ATC to catch the rope (this backup prusik can be the loop you're using as a backup, since the rope is already passed through your ATC and you don't need two backups);
Your weight now rests on the primary, and your ATC is ready to be abseiled from. Take a long quickdraw, a loop or anything you can step on, and place it on the primary itself. Step on it grabbing your PAS to balance as you take the rope slack in through your ATC, adjusting the backup below it or simply using your hand in order to pass the weight to the ATC;
- Your weight is now placed on the ATC and everything else is free to be removed. Take everything out of the rope and abseil.
Ascending a fixed rope using an ATC guide in lead mode is totally valid, but it is not the "quickest" method (IMHO). Usually what is taught in basic climbing and self rescue courses is to ascend with two prusik loops: One for you foot, and one for your weight. Ascending with an ATC is ok because it is more "fail proof", though.
The reason I mentioned using two prusiks is more basic is because my answer includes transitioning to a prusik loop in order to re-set your ATC in abseil mode. The process is simple and intuitive: Suppose you have the exact situation described in your picture, where you use a loop for your foot placed above the ATC and have your weight placed in the ATC itself. Now you should:
- Take a second prusik loop and use it to grab the rope above your foot loop (with a marchant knot or some variation), clipping your personal anchoring system (PAS) into it, creating a primary;
Do exactly the same procedure you were doing before, but instead of taking slack in through your ATC, move the primary upwards - this means that when you rest, your weight will be placed on the primary above, not on the ATC;
Move your second loop (the one you were using for your foot) upwards until it comes near the primary, clipping a sling to it and using it as a backup;
You are now attached to two prusik loops above your ATC device, so you have a primary fixed point and a backup. You are ready to disconnect your ATC in lead mode, which is now absolutely unweighted. Do so and reposition it in abseil mode, using a third prusik as a backup under the ATC to catch the rope (this backup prusik can be the loop you're using as a backup, since the rope is already passed through your ATC and you don't need two backups);
Your weight now rests on the primary, and your ATC is ready to be abseiled from. Take a long quickdraw, a loop or anything you can step on, and place it on the primary itself. Step on it grabbing your PAS to balance as you take the rope slack in through your ATC, adjusting the backup below it or simply using your hand in order to pass the weight to the ATC;
- Your weight is now placed on the ATC and everything else is free to be removed. Take everything out of the rope and abseil.
edited 4 hours ago
answered 4 hours ago
QuantumBrickQuantumBrick
2,3436 silver badges27 bronze badges
2,3436 silver badges27 bronze badges
add a comment |
add a comment |
Whatever you do, you will need to take off the load from the tuber in locking mode. So I'd use the same technique as when going over a knot (well there's probably more than one technique for that, but this is the one I know and use (luckily for training only till now)), just adapted to the ascending setup you are in:
Take a cordelette and make a prusik (or blocking knot of your choice) just above the ATC/tuber leaving one end rather short and secure that end (double fishermen's). Then attach the other end to a biner on your harness with a Munter hitch, which you then secure with a releasable blocking knot. Then use your blue loop to get load off the tuber and pull on the upper shackle of the tuber to let rope go through until your weight rests in the newly added cordelette. Now attache your usual backup prusik for abseiling below, also getting some loose rope up to work with. Then change the tuber to descending mode. Once all is set and double checked, release the blocking knot and lower yourself with the munter, until the load is in the tuber/backup prusik. Then remove the cordelette and start abseiling.
add a comment |
Whatever you do, you will need to take off the load from the tuber in locking mode. So I'd use the same technique as when going over a knot (well there's probably more than one technique for that, but this is the one I know and use (luckily for training only till now)), just adapted to the ascending setup you are in:
Take a cordelette and make a prusik (or blocking knot of your choice) just above the ATC/tuber leaving one end rather short and secure that end (double fishermen's). Then attach the other end to a biner on your harness with a Munter hitch, which you then secure with a releasable blocking knot. Then use your blue loop to get load off the tuber and pull on the upper shackle of the tuber to let rope go through until your weight rests in the newly added cordelette. Now attache your usual backup prusik for abseiling below, also getting some loose rope up to work with. Then change the tuber to descending mode. Once all is set and double checked, release the blocking knot and lower yourself with the munter, until the load is in the tuber/backup prusik. Then remove the cordelette and start abseiling.
add a comment |
Whatever you do, you will need to take off the load from the tuber in locking mode. So I'd use the same technique as when going over a knot (well there's probably more than one technique for that, but this is the one I know and use (luckily for training only till now)), just adapted to the ascending setup you are in:
Take a cordelette and make a prusik (or blocking knot of your choice) just above the ATC/tuber leaving one end rather short and secure that end (double fishermen's). Then attach the other end to a biner on your harness with a Munter hitch, which you then secure with a releasable blocking knot. Then use your blue loop to get load off the tuber and pull on the upper shackle of the tuber to let rope go through until your weight rests in the newly added cordelette. Now attache your usual backup prusik for abseiling below, also getting some loose rope up to work with. Then change the tuber to descending mode. Once all is set and double checked, release the blocking knot and lower yourself with the munter, until the load is in the tuber/backup prusik. Then remove the cordelette and start abseiling.
Whatever you do, you will need to take off the load from the tuber in locking mode. So I'd use the same technique as when going over a knot (well there's probably more than one technique for that, but this is the one I know and use (luckily for training only till now)), just adapted to the ascending setup you are in:
Take a cordelette and make a prusik (or blocking knot of your choice) just above the ATC/tuber leaving one end rather short and secure that end (double fishermen's). Then attach the other end to a biner on your harness with a Munter hitch, which you then secure with a releasable blocking knot. Then use your blue loop to get load off the tuber and pull on the upper shackle of the tuber to let rope go through until your weight rests in the newly added cordelette. Now attache your usual backup prusik for abseiling below, also getting some loose rope up to work with. Then change the tuber to descending mode. Once all is set and double checked, release the blocking knot and lower yourself with the munter, until the load is in the tuber/backup prusik. Then remove the cordelette and start abseiling.
answered 4 hours ago
imsodinimsodin
19.1k2 gold badges66 silver badges122 bronze badges
19.1k2 gold badges66 silver badges122 bronze badges
add a comment |
add a comment |
Yuval Adam is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Yuval Adam is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Yuval Adam is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Yuval Adam is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Thanks for contributing an answer to The Great Outdoors Stack Exchange!
- Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!
But avoid …
- Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.
- Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.
To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function ()
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2foutdoors.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f22453%2ftransition-from-ascending-to-descending-a-rope%23new-answer', 'question_page');
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown