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How to remove this component from PCB
Homebrew PCB tips?Reworking a PCB - remove these componentsHow do I solder this tiny (0.5mm pitch) MSOP10?Removing PCB from complex pattern of soldered-in thru-hole posts?What mad solder type is used for BGA?testing no leads packages for pin to PCB pad connectivityRemoving QFN Lead Frame From PCBRemove 0 Ohm resistor (solder bridge jumper)How to solder SMDs on metal core PCB?SMD desoldering - struggling to get this chip quik stuff working, what am I doing wrong?
.everyoneloves__top-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__mid-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__bot-mid-leaderboard:empty margin-bottom:0;
$begingroup$
Anyone have any idea how I could remove this component?
I've tried blowing hot air, used solder wick, tried to poke the holes with two soldering irons, cut the pins to near the PCB, but it won't budge.
It would be ideal if I had a rectangular piece of metal that could get up to around 380 degrees celsius and that I can just place on the pins all the while pulling to remove the component.
pcb soldering pcb-assembly rework
$endgroup$
|
show 2 more comments
$begingroup$
Anyone have any idea how I could remove this component?
I've tried blowing hot air, used solder wick, tried to poke the holes with two soldering irons, cut the pins to near the PCB, but it won't budge.
It would be ideal if I had a rectangular piece of metal that could get up to around 380 degrees celsius and that I can just place on the pins all the while pulling to remove the component.
pcb soldering pcb-assembly rework
$endgroup$
3
$begingroup$
Solder wick is the wrong direction. If anything, you need more solder and heat.
$endgroup$
– JRE
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
Good idea to invest in a $100 hot air gun. It makes this kind of thing trivial.
$endgroup$
– efox29
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
That's a good idea. Components would be fried afterward with one of those, right?
$endgroup$
– mikanim
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
Maybe not if you'd started with a hot air gun, but I suspect it's pretty abused now.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
you can buy special "desoldering" solder that lowers the melting point of regular solder .... here is a usage video youtube.com/watch?v=ekndTIjEw9E
$endgroup$
– jsotola
7 hours ago
|
show 2 more comments
$begingroup$
Anyone have any idea how I could remove this component?
I've tried blowing hot air, used solder wick, tried to poke the holes with two soldering irons, cut the pins to near the PCB, but it won't budge.
It would be ideal if I had a rectangular piece of metal that could get up to around 380 degrees celsius and that I can just place on the pins all the while pulling to remove the component.
pcb soldering pcb-assembly rework
$endgroup$
Anyone have any idea how I could remove this component?
I've tried blowing hot air, used solder wick, tried to poke the holes with two soldering irons, cut the pins to near the PCB, but it won't budge.
It would be ideal if I had a rectangular piece of metal that could get up to around 380 degrees celsius and that I can just place on the pins all the while pulling to remove the component.
pcb soldering pcb-assembly rework
pcb soldering pcb-assembly rework
edited 6 hours ago
bitsmack
12.5k73880
12.5k73880
asked 8 hours ago
mikanimmikanim
355
355
3
$begingroup$
Solder wick is the wrong direction. If anything, you need more solder and heat.
$endgroup$
– JRE
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
Good idea to invest in a $100 hot air gun. It makes this kind of thing trivial.
$endgroup$
– efox29
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
That's a good idea. Components would be fried afterward with one of those, right?
$endgroup$
– mikanim
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
Maybe not if you'd started with a hot air gun, but I suspect it's pretty abused now.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
you can buy special "desoldering" solder that lowers the melting point of regular solder .... here is a usage video youtube.com/watch?v=ekndTIjEw9E
$endgroup$
– jsotola
7 hours ago
|
show 2 more comments
3
$begingroup$
Solder wick is the wrong direction. If anything, you need more solder and heat.
$endgroup$
– JRE
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
Good idea to invest in a $100 hot air gun. It makes this kind of thing trivial.
$endgroup$
– efox29
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
That's a good idea. Components would be fried afterward with one of those, right?
$endgroup$
– mikanim
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
Maybe not if you'd started with a hot air gun, but I suspect it's pretty abused now.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
you can buy special "desoldering" solder that lowers the melting point of regular solder .... here is a usage video youtube.com/watch?v=ekndTIjEw9E
$endgroup$
– jsotola
7 hours ago
3
3
$begingroup$
Solder wick is the wrong direction. If anything, you need more solder and heat.
$endgroup$
– JRE
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
Solder wick is the wrong direction. If anything, you need more solder and heat.
$endgroup$
– JRE
8 hours ago
1
1
$begingroup$
Good idea to invest in a $100 hot air gun. It makes this kind of thing trivial.
$endgroup$
– efox29
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
Good idea to invest in a $100 hot air gun. It makes this kind of thing trivial.
$endgroup$
– efox29
7 hours ago
1
1
$begingroup$
That's a good idea. Components would be fried afterward with one of those, right?
$endgroup$
– mikanim
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
That's a good idea. Components would be fried afterward with one of those, right?
$endgroup$
– mikanim
7 hours ago
1
1
$begingroup$
Maybe not if you'd started with a hot air gun, but I suspect it's pretty abused now.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
Maybe not if you'd started with a hot air gun, but I suspect it's pretty abused now.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
7 hours ago
1
1
$begingroup$
you can buy special "desoldering" solder that lowers the melting point of regular solder .... here is a usage video youtube.com/watch?v=ekndTIjEw9E
$endgroup$
– jsotola
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
you can buy special "desoldering" solder that lowers the melting point of regular solder .... here is a usage video youtube.com/watch?v=ekndTIjEw9E
$endgroup$
– jsotola
7 hours ago
|
show 2 more comments
5 Answers
5
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
You need a lot more solder, so as to cover all the eight contacts and heat them to their melting point. Think "solder pool." Once you pull the component, then you can remove the solder pool using whatever means you have at hand.
As the comments attest, this will make the part very hot. Silicone gloves have come to the rescue when desoldering large parts, for me.
$endgroup$
3
$begingroup$
avoid using your bare hands because the heat will be on the metal can and it will burn - continue to make that mistake
$endgroup$
– efox29
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
This did the trick. Many thanks. I spent about 2 hours trying to get that thing off and the solder pool only took about 5 minutes (4 minutes due to a false start and just getting the solder prepared, and only a few seconds to pull the component off).
$endgroup$
– mikanim
6 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
With big through-hole parts, I attack one pin at a time with a solder sucker (or "solder pump"). I prefer this type
because they're big and cheap! It can remove more solder per use than the smaller, more refined pumps.
First, you heat up the pin and melt the solder around it. You want to keep adding heat until the entire volume of the PTH is molten. It can help to add solder to improve heat flow.
Then, use the pump to remove the solder. Don't remove the iron from the pin until after you use the pump.
If the PTH looks empty, move on to the next pin. If there is still solder left over, fill it up with new solder (and flux) and try again.
There will always be just a little solder left over holding one edge of the pin to the inner edge of the PTH. Here's the trick: grab each pin with the tip of some needle-nosed pliers and wiggle it until it breaks free.
Once all the pins are loose, pull out the chip.
Touch each hole with a clean soldering iron to reflow the remaining solder. There should be so little solder left that this action effectively clears out the holes.
In this specific case, you may have a problem with Step 4 since you have clipped the pins. Perhaps there will still be enough to grab onto.
And, of course, this makes a mess of the device's pins, so it shouldn't be done if you want to re-use the part.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
I actually have this exact one and tried it before making this post. It helped but I was already in the negative since I used hot air beforehand. +1 nonetheless for the detailed explanation. The solder pool worked in the end. I recommend trying bitsmack's answer first since it could be fairly easy with the pump BUT it could also rip out the inner copper housing/pad if the component gets pulled out with too much force or is still quite hot from the soldering iron.
$endgroup$
– mikanim
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
I'm glad it worked out! @TomServo 's "solder pool" technique is a good idea :)
$endgroup$
– bitsmack
6 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Dremel off the body, and get the pins one at a time with an iron. Clean up with a solder sucker and braid.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
For something like that, conventional soldering tools are the wrong answer. Possibly, a very high powered hot air rework station would do it, and could be the right choice if you need to work around other components that shouldn't be dismounted, but unless you already have it or are seeking an excuse to buy one, it's probably not the solution.
For something large on a sparsely populated board what you probably want is a hardware store type heat gun.
If you don't particularly care about the board, the old school method was a propane torch; beware the board will probably catch fire, and you don't want to breathe that.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
It looks like you have a hot-air gun. This should make the process fairly painless. (Unless you touch something hot, of course!)
I would try to suspend the board to ensure the component isn't touching anything. Then heat up the pins on the back of the board with your hot air gun. When the solder melts, the component's weight should cause it to fall away from the board.
One pin looks like it's tied directly to the ground plane, and a few others might be tied to a copper fill on the component side of the board. These will require a lot of heat: the whole plane needs to get hot before the solder joints will melt.
If the solder melts but the chip doesn't fall off, I recommend poking the pins with a thin wooden dowel (or a toothpick). The wood might start to smolder, but I haven't had one catch fire yet :)
$endgroup$
add a comment |
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5 Answers
5
active
oldest
votes
5 Answers
5
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
You need a lot more solder, so as to cover all the eight contacts and heat them to their melting point. Think "solder pool." Once you pull the component, then you can remove the solder pool using whatever means you have at hand.
As the comments attest, this will make the part very hot. Silicone gloves have come to the rescue when desoldering large parts, for me.
$endgroup$
3
$begingroup$
avoid using your bare hands because the heat will be on the metal can and it will burn - continue to make that mistake
$endgroup$
– efox29
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
This did the trick. Many thanks. I spent about 2 hours trying to get that thing off and the solder pool only took about 5 minutes (4 minutes due to a false start and just getting the solder prepared, and only a few seconds to pull the component off).
$endgroup$
– mikanim
6 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
You need a lot more solder, so as to cover all the eight contacts and heat them to their melting point. Think "solder pool." Once you pull the component, then you can remove the solder pool using whatever means you have at hand.
As the comments attest, this will make the part very hot. Silicone gloves have come to the rescue when desoldering large parts, for me.
$endgroup$
3
$begingroup$
avoid using your bare hands because the heat will be on the metal can and it will burn - continue to make that mistake
$endgroup$
– efox29
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
This did the trick. Many thanks. I spent about 2 hours trying to get that thing off and the solder pool only took about 5 minutes (4 minutes due to a false start and just getting the solder prepared, and only a few seconds to pull the component off).
$endgroup$
– mikanim
6 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
You need a lot more solder, so as to cover all the eight contacts and heat them to their melting point. Think "solder pool." Once you pull the component, then you can remove the solder pool using whatever means you have at hand.
As the comments attest, this will make the part very hot. Silicone gloves have come to the rescue when desoldering large parts, for me.
$endgroup$
You need a lot more solder, so as to cover all the eight contacts and heat them to their melting point. Think "solder pool." Once you pull the component, then you can remove the solder pool using whatever means you have at hand.
As the comments attest, this will make the part very hot. Silicone gloves have come to the rescue when desoldering large parts, for me.
edited 7 hours ago
answered 7 hours ago
TomServoTomServo
382111
382111
3
$begingroup$
avoid using your bare hands because the heat will be on the metal can and it will burn - continue to make that mistake
$endgroup$
– efox29
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
This did the trick. Many thanks. I spent about 2 hours trying to get that thing off and the solder pool only took about 5 minutes (4 minutes due to a false start and just getting the solder prepared, and only a few seconds to pull the component off).
$endgroup$
– mikanim
6 hours ago
add a comment |
3
$begingroup$
avoid using your bare hands because the heat will be on the metal can and it will burn - continue to make that mistake
$endgroup$
– efox29
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
This did the trick. Many thanks. I spent about 2 hours trying to get that thing off and the solder pool only took about 5 minutes (4 minutes due to a false start and just getting the solder prepared, and only a few seconds to pull the component off).
$endgroup$
– mikanim
6 hours ago
3
3
$begingroup$
avoid using your bare hands because the heat will be on the metal can and it will burn - continue to make that mistake
$endgroup$
– efox29
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
avoid using your bare hands because the heat will be on the metal can and it will burn - continue to make that mistake
$endgroup$
– efox29
7 hours ago
1
1
$begingroup$
This did the trick. Many thanks. I spent about 2 hours trying to get that thing off and the solder pool only took about 5 minutes (4 minutes due to a false start and just getting the solder prepared, and only a few seconds to pull the component off).
$endgroup$
– mikanim
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
This did the trick. Many thanks. I spent about 2 hours trying to get that thing off and the solder pool only took about 5 minutes (4 minutes due to a false start and just getting the solder prepared, and only a few seconds to pull the component off).
$endgroup$
– mikanim
6 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
With big through-hole parts, I attack one pin at a time with a solder sucker (or "solder pump"). I prefer this type
because they're big and cheap! It can remove more solder per use than the smaller, more refined pumps.
First, you heat up the pin and melt the solder around it. You want to keep adding heat until the entire volume of the PTH is molten. It can help to add solder to improve heat flow.
Then, use the pump to remove the solder. Don't remove the iron from the pin until after you use the pump.
If the PTH looks empty, move on to the next pin. If there is still solder left over, fill it up with new solder (and flux) and try again.
There will always be just a little solder left over holding one edge of the pin to the inner edge of the PTH. Here's the trick: grab each pin with the tip of some needle-nosed pliers and wiggle it until it breaks free.
Once all the pins are loose, pull out the chip.
Touch each hole with a clean soldering iron to reflow the remaining solder. There should be so little solder left that this action effectively clears out the holes.
In this specific case, you may have a problem with Step 4 since you have clipped the pins. Perhaps there will still be enough to grab onto.
And, of course, this makes a mess of the device's pins, so it shouldn't be done if you want to re-use the part.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
I actually have this exact one and tried it before making this post. It helped but I was already in the negative since I used hot air beforehand. +1 nonetheless for the detailed explanation. The solder pool worked in the end. I recommend trying bitsmack's answer first since it could be fairly easy with the pump BUT it could also rip out the inner copper housing/pad if the component gets pulled out with too much force or is still quite hot from the soldering iron.
$endgroup$
– mikanim
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
I'm glad it worked out! @TomServo 's "solder pool" technique is a good idea :)
$endgroup$
– bitsmack
6 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
With big through-hole parts, I attack one pin at a time with a solder sucker (or "solder pump"). I prefer this type
because they're big and cheap! It can remove more solder per use than the smaller, more refined pumps.
First, you heat up the pin and melt the solder around it. You want to keep adding heat until the entire volume of the PTH is molten. It can help to add solder to improve heat flow.
Then, use the pump to remove the solder. Don't remove the iron from the pin until after you use the pump.
If the PTH looks empty, move on to the next pin. If there is still solder left over, fill it up with new solder (and flux) and try again.
There will always be just a little solder left over holding one edge of the pin to the inner edge of the PTH. Here's the trick: grab each pin with the tip of some needle-nosed pliers and wiggle it until it breaks free.
Once all the pins are loose, pull out the chip.
Touch each hole with a clean soldering iron to reflow the remaining solder. There should be so little solder left that this action effectively clears out the holes.
In this specific case, you may have a problem with Step 4 since you have clipped the pins. Perhaps there will still be enough to grab onto.
And, of course, this makes a mess of the device's pins, so it shouldn't be done if you want to re-use the part.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
I actually have this exact one and tried it before making this post. It helped but I was already in the negative since I used hot air beforehand. +1 nonetheless for the detailed explanation. The solder pool worked in the end. I recommend trying bitsmack's answer first since it could be fairly easy with the pump BUT it could also rip out the inner copper housing/pad if the component gets pulled out with too much force or is still quite hot from the soldering iron.
$endgroup$
– mikanim
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
I'm glad it worked out! @TomServo 's "solder pool" technique is a good idea :)
$endgroup$
– bitsmack
6 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
With big through-hole parts, I attack one pin at a time with a solder sucker (or "solder pump"). I prefer this type
because they're big and cheap! It can remove more solder per use than the smaller, more refined pumps.
First, you heat up the pin and melt the solder around it. You want to keep adding heat until the entire volume of the PTH is molten. It can help to add solder to improve heat flow.
Then, use the pump to remove the solder. Don't remove the iron from the pin until after you use the pump.
If the PTH looks empty, move on to the next pin. If there is still solder left over, fill it up with new solder (and flux) and try again.
There will always be just a little solder left over holding one edge of the pin to the inner edge of the PTH. Here's the trick: grab each pin with the tip of some needle-nosed pliers and wiggle it until it breaks free.
Once all the pins are loose, pull out the chip.
Touch each hole with a clean soldering iron to reflow the remaining solder. There should be so little solder left that this action effectively clears out the holes.
In this specific case, you may have a problem with Step 4 since you have clipped the pins. Perhaps there will still be enough to grab onto.
And, of course, this makes a mess of the device's pins, so it shouldn't be done if you want to re-use the part.
$endgroup$
With big through-hole parts, I attack one pin at a time with a solder sucker (or "solder pump"). I prefer this type
because they're big and cheap! It can remove more solder per use than the smaller, more refined pumps.
First, you heat up the pin and melt the solder around it. You want to keep adding heat until the entire volume of the PTH is molten. It can help to add solder to improve heat flow.
Then, use the pump to remove the solder. Don't remove the iron from the pin until after you use the pump.
If the PTH looks empty, move on to the next pin. If there is still solder left over, fill it up with new solder (and flux) and try again.
There will always be just a little solder left over holding one edge of the pin to the inner edge of the PTH. Here's the trick: grab each pin with the tip of some needle-nosed pliers and wiggle it until it breaks free.
Once all the pins are loose, pull out the chip.
Touch each hole with a clean soldering iron to reflow the remaining solder. There should be so little solder left that this action effectively clears out the holes.
In this specific case, you may have a problem with Step 4 since you have clipped the pins. Perhaps there will still be enough to grab onto.
And, of course, this makes a mess of the device's pins, so it shouldn't be done if you want to re-use the part.
answered 7 hours ago
bitsmackbitsmack
12.5k73880
12.5k73880
$begingroup$
I actually have this exact one and tried it before making this post. It helped but I was already in the negative since I used hot air beforehand. +1 nonetheless for the detailed explanation. The solder pool worked in the end. I recommend trying bitsmack's answer first since it could be fairly easy with the pump BUT it could also rip out the inner copper housing/pad if the component gets pulled out with too much force or is still quite hot from the soldering iron.
$endgroup$
– mikanim
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
I'm glad it worked out! @TomServo 's "solder pool" technique is a good idea :)
$endgroup$
– bitsmack
6 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
I actually have this exact one and tried it before making this post. It helped but I was already in the negative since I used hot air beforehand. +1 nonetheless for the detailed explanation. The solder pool worked in the end. I recommend trying bitsmack's answer first since it could be fairly easy with the pump BUT it could also rip out the inner copper housing/pad if the component gets pulled out with too much force or is still quite hot from the soldering iron.
$endgroup$
– mikanim
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
I'm glad it worked out! @TomServo 's "solder pool" technique is a good idea :)
$endgroup$
– bitsmack
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
I actually have this exact one and tried it before making this post. It helped but I was already in the negative since I used hot air beforehand. +1 nonetheless for the detailed explanation. The solder pool worked in the end. I recommend trying bitsmack's answer first since it could be fairly easy with the pump BUT it could also rip out the inner copper housing/pad if the component gets pulled out with too much force or is still quite hot from the soldering iron.
$endgroup$
– mikanim
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
I actually have this exact one and tried it before making this post. It helped but I was already in the negative since I used hot air beforehand. +1 nonetheless for the detailed explanation. The solder pool worked in the end. I recommend trying bitsmack's answer first since it could be fairly easy with the pump BUT it could also rip out the inner copper housing/pad if the component gets pulled out with too much force or is still quite hot from the soldering iron.
$endgroup$
– mikanim
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
I'm glad it worked out! @TomServo 's "solder pool" technique is a good idea :)
$endgroup$
– bitsmack
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
I'm glad it worked out! @TomServo 's "solder pool" technique is a good idea :)
$endgroup$
– bitsmack
6 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Dremel off the body, and get the pins one at a time with an iron. Clean up with a solder sucker and braid.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Dremel off the body, and get the pins one at a time with an iron. Clean up with a solder sucker and braid.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Dremel off the body, and get the pins one at a time with an iron. Clean up with a solder sucker and braid.
$endgroup$
Dremel off the body, and get the pins one at a time with an iron. Clean up with a solder sucker and braid.
answered 6 hours ago
Scott SeidmanScott Seidman
23.1k43288
23.1k43288
add a comment |
add a comment |
$begingroup$
For something like that, conventional soldering tools are the wrong answer. Possibly, a very high powered hot air rework station would do it, and could be the right choice if you need to work around other components that shouldn't be dismounted, but unless you already have it or are seeking an excuse to buy one, it's probably not the solution.
For something large on a sparsely populated board what you probably want is a hardware store type heat gun.
If you don't particularly care about the board, the old school method was a propane torch; beware the board will probably catch fire, and you don't want to breathe that.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
For something like that, conventional soldering tools are the wrong answer. Possibly, a very high powered hot air rework station would do it, and could be the right choice if you need to work around other components that shouldn't be dismounted, but unless you already have it or are seeking an excuse to buy one, it's probably not the solution.
For something large on a sparsely populated board what you probably want is a hardware store type heat gun.
If you don't particularly care about the board, the old school method was a propane torch; beware the board will probably catch fire, and you don't want to breathe that.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
For something like that, conventional soldering tools are the wrong answer. Possibly, a very high powered hot air rework station would do it, and could be the right choice if you need to work around other components that shouldn't be dismounted, but unless you already have it or are seeking an excuse to buy one, it's probably not the solution.
For something large on a sparsely populated board what you probably want is a hardware store type heat gun.
If you don't particularly care about the board, the old school method was a propane torch; beware the board will probably catch fire, and you don't want to breathe that.
$endgroup$
For something like that, conventional soldering tools are the wrong answer. Possibly, a very high powered hot air rework station would do it, and could be the right choice if you need to work around other components that shouldn't be dismounted, but unless you already have it or are seeking an excuse to buy one, it's probably not the solution.
For something large on a sparsely populated board what you probably want is a hardware store type heat gun.
If you don't particularly care about the board, the old school method was a propane torch; beware the board will probably catch fire, and you don't want to breathe that.
answered 7 hours ago
Chris StrattonChris Stratton
24.3k23068
24.3k23068
add a comment |
add a comment |
$begingroup$
It looks like you have a hot-air gun. This should make the process fairly painless. (Unless you touch something hot, of course!)
I would try to suspend the board to ensure the component isn't touching anything. Then heat up the pins on the back of the board with your hot air gun. When the solder melts, the component's weight should cause it to fall away from the board.
One pin looks like it's tied directly to the ground plane, and a few others might be tied to a copper fill on the component side of the board. These will require a lot of heat: the whole plane needs to get hot before the solder joints will melt.
If the solder melts but the chip doesn't fall off, I recommend poking the pins with a thin wooden dowel (or a toothpick). The wood might start to smolder, but I haven't had one catch fire yet :)
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
It looks like you have a hot-air gun. This should make the process fairly painless. (Unless you touch something hot, of course!)
I would try to suspend the board to ensure the component isn't touching anything. Then heat up the pins on the back of the board with your hot air gun. When the solder melts, the component's weight should cause it to fall away from the board.
One pin looks like it's tied directly to the ground plane, and a few others might be tied to a copper fill on the component side of the board. These will require a lot of heat: the whole plane needs to get hot before the solder joints will melt.
If the solder melts but the chip doesn't fall off, I recommend poking the pins with a thin wooden dowel (or a toothpick). The wood might start to smolder, but I haven't had one catch fire yet :)
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
It looks like you have a hot-air gun. This should make the process fairly painless. (Unless you touch something hot, of course!)
I would try to suspend the board to ensure the component isn't touching anything. Then heat up the pins on the back of the board with your hot air gun. When the solder melts, the component's weight should cause it to fall away from the board.
One pin looks like it's tied directly to the ground plane, and a few others might be tied to a copper fill on the component side of the board. These will require a lot of heat: the whole plane needs to get hot before the solder joints will melt.
If the solder melts but the chip doesn't fall off, I recommend poking the pins with a thin wooden dowel (or a toothpick). The wood might start to smolder, but I haven't had one catch fire yet :)
$endgroup$
It looks like you have a hot-air gun. This should make the process fairly painless. (Unless you touch something hot, of course!)
I would try to suspend the board to ensure the component isn't touching anything. Then heat up the pins on the back of the board with your hot air gun. When the solder melts, the component's weight should cause it to fall away from the board.
One pin looks like it's tied directly to the ground plane, and a few others might be tied to a copper fill on the component side of the board. These will require a lot of heat: the whole plane needs to get hot before the solder joints will melt.
If the solder melts but the chip doesn't fall off, I recommend poking the pins with a thin wooden dowel (or a toothpick). The wood might start to smolder, but I haven't had one catch fire yet :)
answered 7 hours ago
bitsmackbitsmack
12.5k73880
12.5k73880
add a comment |
add a comment |
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3
$begingroup$
Solder wick is the wrong direction. If anything, you need more solder and heat.
$endgroup$
– JRE
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
Good idea to invest in a $100 hot air gun. It makes this kind of thing trivial.
$endgroup$
– efox29
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
That's a good idea. Components would be fried afterward with one of those, right?
$endgroup$
– mikanim
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
Maybe not if you'd started with a hot air gun, but I suspect it's pretty abused now.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
you can buy special "desoldering" solder that lowers the melting point of regular solder .... here is a usage video youtube.com/watch?v=ekndTIjEw9E
$endgroup$
– jsotola
7 hours ago