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How to remove this component from PCB


Homebrew PCB tips?Reworking a PCB - remove these componentsHow do I solder this tiny (0.5mm pitch) MSOP10?Removing PCB from complex pattern of soldered-in thru-hole posts?What mad solder type is used for BGA?testing no leads packages for pin to PCB pad connectivityRemoving QFN Lead Frame From PCBRemove 0 Ohm resistor (solder bridge jumper)How to solder SMDs on metal core PCB?SMD desoldering - struggling to get this chip quik stuff working, what am I doing wrong?






.everyoneloves__top-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__mid-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__bot-mid-leaderboard:empty margin-bottom:0;








4












$begingroup$


Anyone have any idea how I could remove this component?



I've tried blowing hot air, used solder wick, tried to poke the holes with two soldering irons, cut the pins to near the PCB, but it won't budge.



It would be ideal if I had a rectangular piece of metal that could get up to around 380 degrees celsius and that I can just place on the pins all the while pulling to remove the component.



enter image description here



enter image description here



enter image description here



enter image description here










share|improve this question











$endgroup$







  • 3




    $begingroup$
    Solder wick is the wrong direction. If anything, you need more solder and heat.
    $endgroup$
    – JRE
    8 hours ago






  • 1




    $begingroup$
    Good idea to invest in a $100 hot air gun. It makes this kind of thing trivial.
    $endgroup$
    – efox29
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    $begingroup$
    That's a good idea. Components would be fried afterward with one of those, right?
    $endgroup$
    – mikanim
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    $begingroup$
    Maybe not if you'd started with a hot air gun, but I suspect it's pretty abused now.
    $endgroup$
    – TimWescott
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    $begingroup$
    you can buy special "desoldering" solder that lowers the melting point of regular solder .... here is a usage video youtube.com/watch?v=ekndTIjEw9E
    $endgroup$
    – jsotola
    7 hours ago

















4












$begingroup$


Anyone have any idea how I could remove this component?



I've tried blowing hot air, used solder wick, tried to poke the holes with two soldering irons, cut the pins to near the PCB, but it won't budge.



It would be ideal if I had a rectangular piece of metal that could get up to around 380 degrees celsius and that I can just place on the pins all the while pulling to remove the component.



enter image description here



enter image description here



enter image description here



enter image description here










share|improve this question











$endgroup$







  • 3




    $begingroup$
    Solder wick is the wrong direction. If anything, you need more solder and heat.
    $endgroup$
    – JRE
    8 hours ago






  • 1




    $begingroup$
    Good idea to invest in a $100 hot air gun. It makes this kind of thing trivial.
    $endgroup$
    – efox29
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    $begingroup$
    That's a good idea. Components would be fried afterward with one of those, right?
    $endgroup$
    – mikanim
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    $begingroup$
    Maybe not if you'd started with a hot air gun, but I suspect it's pretty abused now.
    $endgroup$
    – TimWescott
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    $begingroup$
    you can buy special "desoldering" solder that lowers the melting point of regular solder .... here is a usage video youtube.com/watch?v=ekndTIjEw9E
    $endgroup$
    – jsotola
    7 hours ago













4












4








4





$begingroup$


Anyone have any idea how I could remove this component?



I've tried blowing hot air, used solder wick, tried to poke the holes with two soldering irons, cut the pins to near the PCB, but it won't budge.



It would be ideal if I had a rectangular piece of metal that could get up to around 380 degrees celsius and that I can just place on the pins all the while pulling to remove the component.



enter image description here



enter image description here



enter image description here



enter image description here










share|improve this question











$endgroup$




Anyone have any idea how I could remove this component?



I've tried blowing hot air, used solder wick, tried to poke the holes with two soldering irons, cut the pins to near the PCB, but it won't budge.



It would be ideal if I had a rectangular piece of metal that could get up to around 380 degrees celsius and that I can just place on the pins all the while pulling to remove the component.



enter image description here



enter image description here



enter image description here



enter image description here







pcb soldering pcb-assembly rework






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 6 hours ago









bitsmack

12.5k73880




12.5k73880










asked 8 hours ago









mikanimmikanim

355




355







  • 3




    $begingroup$
    Solder wick is the wrong direction. If anything, you need more solder and heat.
    $endgroup$
    – JRE
    8 hours ago






  • 1




    $begingroup$
    Good idea to invest in a $100 hot air gun. It makes this kind of thing trivial.
    $endgroup$
    – efox29
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    $begingroup$
    That's a good idea. Components would be fried afterward with one of those, right?
    $endgroup$
    – mikanim
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    $begingroup$
    Maybe not if you'd started with a hot air gun, but I suspect it's pretty abused now.
    $endgroup$
    – TimWescott
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    $begingroup$
    you can buy special "desoldering" solder that lowers the melting point of regular solder .... here is a usage video youtube.com/watch?v=ekndTIjEw9E
    $endgroup$
    – jsotola
    7 hours ago












  • 3




    $begingroup$
    Solder wick is the wrong direction. If anything, you need more solder and heat.
    $endgroup$
    – JRE
    8 hours ago






  • 1




    $begingroup$
    Good idea to invest in a $100 hot air gun. It makes this kind of thing trivial.
    $endgroup$
    – efox29
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    $begingroup$
    That's a good idea. Components would be fried afterward with one of those, right?
    $endgroup$
    – mikanim
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    $begingroup$
    Maybe not if you'd started with a hot air gun, but I suspect it's pretty abused now.
    $endgroup$
    – TimWescott
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    $begingroup$
    you can buy special "desoldering" solder that lowers the melting point of regular solder .... here is a usage video youtube.com/watch?v=ekndTIjEw9E
    $endgroup$
    – jsotola
    7 hours ago







3




3




$begingroup$
Solder wick is the wrong direction. If anything, you need more solder and heat.
$endgroup$
– JRE
8 hours ago




$begingroup$
Solder wick is the wrong direction. If anything, you need more solder and heat.
$endgroup$
– JRE
8 hours ago




1




1




$begingroup$
Good idea to invest in a $100 hot air gun. It makes this kind of thing trivial.
$endgroup$
– efox29
7 hours ago




$begingroup$
Good idea to invest in a $100 hot air gun. It makes this kind of thing trivial.
$endgroup$
– efox29
7 hours ago




1




1




$begingroup$
That's a good idea. Components would be fried afterward with one of those, right?
$endgroup$
– mikanim
7 hours ago




$begingroup$
That's a good idea. Components would be fried afterward with one of those, right?
$endgroup$
– mikanim
7 hours ago




1




1




$begingroup$
Maybe not if you'd started with a hot air gun, but I suspect it's pretty abused now.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
7 hours ago




$begingroup$
Maybe not if you'd started with a hot air gun, but I suspect it's pretty abused now.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
7 hours ago




1




1




$begingroup$
you can buy special "desoldering" solder that lowers the melting point of regular solder .... here is a usage video youtube.com/watch?v=ekndTIjEw9E
$endgroup$
– jsotola
7 hours ago




$begingroup$
you can buy special "desoldering" solder that lowers the melting point of regular solder .... here is a usage video youtube.com/watch?v=ekndTIjEw9E
$endgroup$
– jsotola
7 hours ago










5 Answers
5






active

oldest

votes


















4












$begingroup$

You need a lot more solder, so as to cover all the eight contacts and heat them to their melting point. Think "solder pool." Once you pull the component, then you can remove the solder pool using whatever means you have at hand.



As the comments attest, this will make the part very hot. Silicone gloves have come to the rescue when desoldering large parts, for me.






share|improve this answer











$endgroup$








  • 3




    $begingroup$
    avoid using your bare hands because the heat will be on the metal can and it will burn - continue to make that mistake
    $endgroup$
    – efox29
    7 hours ago






  • 1




    $begingroup$
    This did the trick. Many thanks. I spent about 2 hours trying to get that thing off and the solder pool only took about 5 minutes (4 minutes due to a false start and just getting the solder prepared, and only a few seconds to pull the component off).
    $endgroup$
    – mikanim
    6 hours ago


















1












$begingroup$

With big through-hole parts, I attack one pin at a time with a solder sucker (or "solder pump"). I prefer this type



ss



because they're big and cheap! It can remove more solder per use than the smaller, more refined pumps.



  1. First, you heat up the pin and melt the solder around it. You want to keep adding heat until the entire volume of the PTH is molten. It can help to add solder to improve heat flow.


  2. Then, use the pump to remove the solder. Don't remove the iron from the pin until after you use the pump.


  3. If the PTH looks empty, move on to the next pin. If there is still solder left over, fill it up with new solder (and flux) and try again.


  4. There will always be just a little solder left over holding one edge of the pin to the inner edge of the PTH. Here's the trick: grab each pin with the tip of some needle-nosed pliers and wiggle it until it breaks free.


  5. Once all the pins are loose, pull out the chip.


  6. Touch each hole with a clean soldering iron to reflow the remaining solder. There should be so little solder left that this action effectively clears out the holes.


In this specific case, you may have a problem with Step 4 since you have clipped the pins. Perhaps there will still be enough to grab onto.



And, of course, this makes a mess of the device's pins, so it shouldn't be done if you want to re-use the part.






share|improve this answer









$endgroup$












  • $begingroup$
    I actually have this exact one and tried it before making this post. It helped but I was already in the negative since I used hot air beforehand. +1 nonetheless for the detailed explanation. The solder pool worked in the end. I recommend trying bitsmack's answer first since it could be fairly easy with the pump BUT it could also rip out the inner copper housing/pad if the component gets pulled out with too much force or is still quite hot from the soldering iron.
    $endgroup$
    – mikanim
    6 hours ago










  • $begingroup$
    I'm glad it worked out! @TomServo 's "solder pool" technique is a good idea :)
    $endgroup$
    – bitsmack
    6 hours ago


















1












$begingroup$

Dremel off the body, and get the pins one at a time with an iron. Clean up with a solder sucker and braid.






share|improve this answer









$endgroup$




















    0












    $begingroup$

    For something like that, conventional soldering tools are the wrong answer. Possibly, a very high powered hot air rework station would do it, and could be the right choice if you need to work around other components that shouldn't be dismounted, but unless you already have it or are seeking an excuse to buy one, it's probably not the solution.



    For something large on a sparsely populated board what you probably want is a hardware store type heat gun.



    If you don't particularly care about the board, the old school method was a propane torch; beware the board will probably catch fire, and you don't want to breathe that.






    share|improve this answer









    $endgroup$




















      0












      $begingroup$

      It looks like you have a hot-air gun. This should make the process fairly painless. (Unless you touch something hot, of course!)



      I would try to suspend the board to ensure the component isn't touching anything. Then heat up the pins on the back of the board with your hot air gun. When the solder melts, the component's weight should cause it to fall away from the board.



      One pin looks like it's tied directly to the ground plane, and a few others might be tied to a copper fill on the component side of the board. These will require a lot of heat: the whole plane needs to get hot before the solder joints will melt.



      If the solder melts but the chip doesn't fall off, I recommend poking the pins with a thin wooden dowel (or a toothpick). The wood might start to smolder, but I haven't had one catch fire yet :)






      share|improve this answer









      $endgroup$













        Your Answer






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        5 Answers
        5






        active

        oldest

        votes








        5 Answers
        5






        active

        oldest

        votes









        active

        oldest

        votes






        active

        oldest

        votes









        4












        $begingroup$

        You need a lot more solder, so as to cover all the eight contacts and heat them to their melting point. Think "solder pool." Once you pull the component, then you can remove the solder pool using whatever means you have at hand.



        As the comments attest, this will make the part very hot. Silicone gloves have come to the rescue when desoldering large parts, for me.






        share|improve this answer











        $endgroup$








        • 3




          $begingroup$
          avoid using your bare hands because the heat will be on the metal can and it will burn - continue to make that mistake
          $endgroup$
          – efox29
          7 hours ago






        • 1




          $begingroup$
          This did the trick. Many thanks. I spent about 2 hours trying to get that thing off and the solder pool only took about 5 minutes (4 minutes due to a false start and just getting the solder prepared, and only a few seconds to pull the component off).
          $endgroup$
          – mikanim
          6 hours ago















        4












        $begingroup$

        You need a lot more solder, so as to cover all the eight contacts and heat them to their melting point. Think "solder pool." Once you pull the component, then you can remove the solder pool using whatever means you have at hand.



        As the comments attest, this will make the part very hot. Silicone gloves have come to the rescue when desoldering large parts, for me.






        share|improve this answer











        $endgroup$








        • 3




          $begingroup$
          avoid using your bare hands because the heat will be on the metal can and it will burn - continue to make that mistake
          $endgroup$
          – efox29
          7 hours ago






        • 1




          $begingroup$
          This did the trick. Many thanks. I spent about 2 hours trying to get that thing off and the solder pool only took about 5 minutes (4 minutes due to a false start and just getting the solder prepared, and only a few seconds to pull the component off).
          $endgroup$
          – mikanim
          6 hours ago













        4












        4








        4





        $begingroup$

        You need a lot more solder, so as to cover all the eight contacts and heat them to their melting point. Think "solder pool." Once you pull the component, then you can remove the solder pool using whatever means you have at hand.



        As the comments attest, this will make the part very hot. Silicone gloves have come to the rescue when desoldering large parts, for me.






        share|improve this answer











        $endgroup$



        You need a lot more solder, so as to cover all the eight contacts and heat them to their melting point. Think "solder pool." Once you pull the component, then you can remove the solder pool using whatever means you have at hand.



        As the comments attest, this will make the part very hot. Silicone gloves have come to the rescue when desoldering large parts, for me.







        share|improve this answer














        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer








        edited 7 hours ago

























        answered 7 hours ago









        TomServoTomServo

        382111




        382111







        • 3




          $begingroup$
          avoid using your bare hands because the heat will be on the metal can and it will burn - continue to make that mistake
          $endgroup$
          – efox29
          7 hours ago






        • 1




          $begingroup$
          This did the trick. Many thanks. I spent about 2 hours trying to get that thing off and the solder pool only took about 5 minutes (4 minutes due to a false start and just getting the solder prepared, and only a few seconds to pull the component off).
          $endgroup$
          – mikanim
          6 hours ago












        • 3




          $begingroup$
          avoid using your bare hands because the heat will be on the metal can and it will burn - continue to make that mistake
          $endgroup$
          – efox29
          7 hours ago






        • 1




          $begingroup$
          This did the trick. Many thanks. I spent about 2 hours trying to get that thing off and the solder pool only took about 5 minutes (4 minutes due to a false start and just getting the solder prepared, and only a few seconds to pull the component off).
          $endgroup$
          – mikanim
          6 hours ago







        3




        3




        $begingroup$
        avoid using your bare hands because the heat will be on the metal can and it will burn - continue to make that mistake
        $endgroup$
        – efox29
        7 hours ago




        $begingroup$
        avoid using your bare hands because the heat will be on the metal can and it will burn - continue to make that mistake
        $endgroup$
        – efox29
        7 hours ago




        1




        1




        $begingroup$
        This did the trick. Many thanks. I spent about 2 hours trying to get that thing off and the solder pool only took about 5 minutes (4 minutes due to a false start and just getting the solder prepared, and only a few seconds to pull the component off).
        $endgroup$
        – mikanim
        6 hours ago




        $begingroup$
        This did the trick. Many thanks. I spent about 2 hours trying to get that thing off and the solder pool only took about 5 minutes (4 minutes due to a false start and just getting the solder prepared, and only a few seconds to pull the component off).
        $endgroup$
        – mikanim
        6 hours ago













        1












        $begingroup$

        With big through-hole parts, I attack one pin at a time with a solder sucker (or "solder pump"). I prefer this type



        ss



        because they're big and cheap! It can remove more solder per use than the smaller, more refined pumps.



        1. First, you heat up the pin and melt the solder around it. You want to keep adding heat until the entire volume of the PTH is molten. It can help to add solder to improve heat flow.


        2. Then, use the pump to remove the solder. Don't remove the iron from the pin until after you use the pump.


        3. If the PTH looks empty, move on to the next pin. If there is still solder left over, fill it up with new solder (and flux) and try again.


        4. There will always be just a little solder left over holding one edge of the pin to the inner edge of the PTH. Here's the trick: grab each pin with the tip of some needle-nosed pliers and wiggle it until it breaks free.


        5. Once all the pins are loose, pull out the chip.


        6. Touch each hole with a clean soldering iron to reflow the remaining solder. There should be so little solder left that this action effectively clears out the holes.


        In this specific case, you may have a problem with Step 4 since you have clipped the pins. Perhaps there will still be enough to grab onto.



        And, of course, this makes a mess of the device's pins, so it shouldn't be done if you want to re-use the part.






        share|improve this answer









        $endgroup$












        • $begingroup$
          I actually have this exact one and tried it before making this post. It helped but I was already in the negative since I used hot air beforehand. +1 nonetheless for the detailed explanation. The solder pool worked in the end. I recommend trying bitsmack's answer first since it could be fairly easy with the pump BUT it could also rip out the inner copper housing/pad if the component gets pulled out with too much force or is still quite hot from the soldering iron.
          $endgroup$
          – mikanim
          6 hours ago










        • $begingroup$
          I'm glad it worked out! @TomServo 's "solder pool" technique is a good idea :)
          $endgroup$
          – bitsmack
          6 hours ago















        1












        $begingroup$

        With big through-hole parts, I attack one pin at a time with a solder sucker (or "solder pump"). I prefer this type



        ss



        because they're big and cheap! It can remove more solder per use than the smaller, more refined pumps.



        1. First, you heat up the pin and melt the solder around it. You want to keep adding heat until the entire volume of the PTH is molten. It can help to add solder to improve heat flow.


        2. Then, use the pump to remove the solder. Don't remove the iron from the pin until after you use the pump.


        3. If the PTH looks empty, move on to the next pin. If there is still solder left over, fill it up with new solder (and flux) and try again.


        4. There will always be just a little solder left over holding one edge of the pin to the inner edge of the PTH. Here's the trick: grab each pin with the tip of some needle-nosed pliers and wiggle it until it breaks free.


        5. Once all the pins are loose, pull out the chip.


        6. Touch each hole with a clean soldering iron to reflow the remaining solder. There should be so little solder left that this action effectively clears out the holes.


        In this specific case, you may have a problem with Step 4 since you have clipped the pins. Perhaps there will still be enough to grab onto.



        And, of course, this makes a mess of the device's pins, so it shouldn't be done if you want to re-use the part.






        share|improve this answer









        $endgroup$












        • $begingroup$
          I actually have this exact one and tried it before making this post. It helped but I was already in the negative since I used hot air beforehand. +1 nonetheless for the detailed explanation. The solder pool worked in the end. I recommend trying bitsmack's answer first since it could be fairly easy with the pump BUT it could also rip out the inner copper housing/pad if the component gets pulled out with too much force or is still quite hot from the soldering iron.
          $endgroup$
          – mikanim
          6 hours ago










        • $begingroup$
          I'm glad it worked out! @TomServo 's "solder pool" technique is a good idea :)
          $endgroup$
          – bitsmack
          6 hours ago













        1












        1








        1





        $begingroup$

        With big through-hole parts, I attack one pin at a time with a solder sucker (or "solder pump"). I prefer this type



        ss



        because they're big and cheap! It can remove more solder per use than the smaller, more refined pumps.



        1. First, you heat up the pin and melt the solder around it. You want to keep adding heat until the entire volume of the PTH is molten. It can help to add solder to improve heat flow.


        2. Then, use the pump to remove the solder. Don't remove the iron from the pin until after you use the pump.


        3. If the PTH looks empty, move on to the next pin. If there is still solder left over, fill it up with new solder (and flux) and try again.


        4. There will always be just a little solder left over holding one edge of the pin to the inner edge of the PTH. Here's the trick: grab each pin with the tip of some needle-nosed pliers and wiggle it until it breaks free.


        5. Once all the pins are loose, pull out the chip.


        6. Touch each hole with a clean soldering iron to reflow the remaining solder. There should be so little solder left that this action effectively clears out the holes.


        In this specific case, you may have a problem with Step 4 since you have clipped the pins. Perhaps there will still be enough to grab onto.



        And, of course, this makes a mess of the device's pins, so it shouldn't be done if you want to re-use the part.






        share|improve this answer









        $endgroup$



        With big through-hole parts, I attack one pin at a time with a solder sucker (or "solder pump"). I prefer this type



        ss



        because they're big and cheap! It can remove more solder per use than the smaller, more refined pumps.



        1. First, you heat up the pin and melt the solder around it. You want to keep adding heat until the entire volume of the PTH is molten. It can help to add solder to improve heat flow.


        2. Then, use the pump to remove the solder. Don't remove the iron from the pin until after you use the pump.


        3. If the PTH looks empty, move on to the next pin. If there is still solder left over, fill it up with new solder (and flux) and try again.


        4. There will always be just a little solder left over holding one edge of the pin to the inner edge of the PTH. Here's the trick: grab each pin with the tip of some needle-nosed pliers and wiggle it until it breaks free.


        5. Once all the pins are loose, pull out the chip.


        6. Touch each hole with a clean soldering iron to reflow the remaining solder. There should be so little solder left that this action effectively clears out the holes.


        In this specific case, you may have a problem with Step 4 since you have clipped the pins. Perhaps there will still be enough to grab onto.



        And, of course, this makes a mess of the device's pins, so it shouldn't be done if you want to re-use the part.







        share|improve this answer












        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer










        answered 7 hours ago









        bitsmackbitsmack

        12.5k73880




        12.5k73880











        • $begingroup$
          I actually have this exact one and tried it before making this post. It helped but I was already in the negative since I used hot air beforehand. +1 nonetheless for the detailed explanation. The solder pool worked in the end. I recommend trying bitsmack's answer first since it could be fairly easy with the pump BUT it could also rip out the inner copper housing/pad if the component gets pulled out with too much force or is still quite hot from the soldering iron.
          $endgroup$
          – mikanim
          6 hours ago










        • $begingroup$
          I'm glad it worked out! @TomServo 's "solder pool" technique is a good idea :)
          $endgroup$
          – bitsmack
          6 hours ago
















        • $begingroup$
          I actually have this exact one and tried it before making this post. It helped but I was already in the negative since I used hot air beforehand. +1 nonetheless for the detailed explanation. The solder pool worked in the end. I recommend trying bitsmack's answer first since it could be fairly easy with the pump BUT it could also rip out the inner copper housing/pad if the component gets pulled out with too much force or is still quite hot from the soldering iron.
          $endgroup$
          – mikanim
          6 hours ago










        • $begingroup$
          I'm glad it worked out! @TomServo 's "solder pool" technique is a good idea :)
          $endgroup$
          – bitsmack
          6 hours ago















        $begingroup$
        I actually have this exact one and tried it before making this post. It helped but I was already in the negative since I used hot air beforehand. +1 nonetheless for the detailed explanation. The solder pool worked in the end. I recommend trying bitsmack's answer first since it could be fairly easy with the pump BUT it could also rip out the inner copper housing/pad if the component gets pulled out with too much force or is still quite hot from the soldering iron.
        $endgroup$
        – mikanim
        6 hours ago




        $begingroup$
        I actually have this exact one and tried it before making this post. It helped but I was already in the negative since I used hot air beforehand. +1 nonetheless for the detailed explanation. The solder pool worked in the end. I recommend trying bitsmack's answer first since it could be fairly easy with the pump BUT it could also rip out the inner copper housing/pad if the component gets pulled out with too much force or is still quite hot from the soldering iron.
        $endgroup$
        – mikanim
        6 hours ago












        $begingroup$
        I'm glad it worked out! @TomServo 's "solder pool" technique is a good idea :)
        $endgroup$
        – bitsmack
        6 hours ago




        $begingroup$
        I'm glad it worked out! @TomServo 's "solder pool" technique is a good idea :)
        $endgroup$
        – bitsmack
        6 hours ago











        1












        $begingroup$

        Dremel off the body, and get the pins one at a time with an iron. Clean up with a solder sucker and braid.






        share|improve this answer









        $endgroup$

















          1












          $begingroup$

          Dremel off the body, and get the pins one at a time with an iron. Clean up with a solder sucker and braid.






          share|improve this answer









          $endgroup$















            1












            1








            1





            $begingroup$

            Dremel off the body, and get the pins one at a time with an iron. Clean up with a solder sucker and braid.






            share|improve this answer









            $endgroup$



            Dremel off the body, and get the pins one at a time with an iron. Clean up with a solder sucker and braid.







            share|improve this answer












            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer










            answered 6 hours ago









            Scott SeidmanScott Seidman

            23.1k43288




            23.1k43288





















                0












                $begingroup$

                For something like that, conventional soldering tools are the wrong answer. Possibly, a very high powered hot air rework station would do it, and could be the right choice if you need to work around other components that shouldn't be dismounted, but unless you already have it or are seeking an excuse to buy one, it's probably not the solution.



                For something large on a sparsely populated board what you probably want is a hardware store type heat gun.



                If you don't particularly care about the board, the old school method was a propane torch; beware the board will probably catch fire, and you don't want to breathe that.






                share|improve this answer









                $endgroup$

















                  0












                  $begingroup$

                  For something like that, conventional soldering tools are the wrong answer. Possibly, a very high powered hot air rework station would do it, and could be the right choice if you need to work around other components that shouldn't be dismounted, but unless you already have it or are seeking an excuse to buy one, it's probably not the solution.



                  For something large on a sparsely populated board what you probably want is a hardware store type heat gun.



                  If you don't particularly care about the board, the old school method was a propane torch; beware the board will probably catch fire, and you don't want to breathe that.






                  share|improve this answer









                  $endgroup$















                    0












                    0








                    0





                    $begingroup$

                    For something like that, conventional soldering tools are the wrong answer. Possibly, a very high powered hot air rework station would do it, and could be the right choice if you need to work around other components that shouldn't be dismounted, but unless you already have it or are seeking an excuse to buy one, it's probably not the solution.



                    For something large on a sparsely populated board what you probably want is a hardware store type heat gun.



                    If you don't particularly care about the board, the old school method was a propane torch; beware the board will probably catch fire, and you don't want to breathe that.






                    share|improve this answer









                    $endgroup$



                    For something like that, conventional soldering tools are the wrong answer. Possibly, a very high powered hot air rework station would do it, and could be the right choice if you need to work around other components that shouldn't be dismounted, but unless you already have it or are seeking an excuse to buy one, it's probably not the solution.



                    For something large on a sparsely populated board what you probably want is a hardware store type heat gun.



                    If you don't particularly care about the board, the old school method was a propane torch; beware the board will probably catch fire, and you don't want to breathe that.







                    share|improve this answer












                    share|improve this answer



                    share|improve this answer










                    answered 7 hours ago









                    Chris StrattonChris Stratton

                    24.3k23068




                    24.3k23068





















                        0












                        $begingroup$

                        It looks like you have a hot-air gun. This should make the process fairly painless. (Unless you touch something hot, of course!)



                        I would try to suspend the board to ensure the component isn't touching anything. Then heat up the pins on the back of the board with your hot air gun. When the solder melts, the component's weight should cause it to fall away from the board.



                        One pin looks like it's tied directly to the ground plane, and a few others might be tied to a copper fill on the component side of the board. These will require a lot of heat: the whole plane needs to get hot before the solder joints will melt.



                        If the solder melts but the chip doesn't fall off, I recommend poking the pins with a thin wooden dowel (or a toothpick). The wood might start to smolder, but I haven't had one catch fire yet :)






                        share|improve this answer









                        $endgroup$

















                          0












                          $begingroup$

                          It looks like you have a hot-air gun. This should make the process fairly painless. (Unless you touch something hot, of course!)



                          I would try to suspend the board to ensure the component isn't touching anything. Then heat up the pins on the back of the board with your hot air gun. When the solder melts, the component's weight should cause it to fall away from the board.



                          One pin looks like it's tied directly to the ground plane, and a few others might be tied to a copper fill on the component side of the board. These will require a lot of heat: the whole plane needs to get hot before the solder joints will melt.



                          If the solder melts but the chip doesn't fall off, I recommend poking the pins with a thin wooden dowel (or a toothpick). The wood might start to smolder, but I haven't had one catch fire yet :)






                          share|improve this answer









                          $endgroup$















                            0












                            0








                            0





                            $begingroup$

                            It looks like you have a hot-air gun. This should make the process fairly painless. (Unless you touch something hot, of course!)



                            I would try to suspend the board to ensure the component isn't touching anything. Then heat up the pins on the back of the board with your hot air gun. When the solder melts, the component's weight should cause it to fall away from the board.



                            One pin looks like it's tied directly to the ground plane, and a few others might be tied to a copper fill on the component side of the board. These will require a lot of heat: the whole plane needs to get hot before the solder joints will melt.



                            If the solder melts but the chip doesn't fall off, I recommend poking the pins with a thin wooden dowel (or a toothpick). The wood might start to smolder, but I haven't had one catch fire yet :)






                            share|improve this answer









                            $endgroup$



                            It looks like you have a hot-air gun. This should make the process fairly painless. (Unless you touch something hot, of course!)



                            I would try to suspend the board to ensure the component isn't touching anything. Then heat up the pins on the back of the board with your hot air gun. When the solder melts, the component's weight should cause it to fall away from the board.



                            One pin looks like it's tied directly to the ground plane, and a few others might be tied to a copper fill on the component side of the board. These will require a lot of heat: the whole plane needs to get hot before the solder joints will melt.



                            If the solder melts but the chip doesn't fall off, I recommend poking the pins with a thin wooden dowel (or a toothpick). The wood might start to smolder, but I haven't had one catch fire yet :)







                            share|improve this answer












                            share|improve this answer



                            share|improve this answer










                            answered 7 hours ago









                            bitsmackbitsmack

                            12.5k73880




                            12.5k73880



























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