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How many sets of dice do I need for D&D?
Should I bring any extra dice for 5e?How many dice do you need for Dogs in the Vineyard?Call of Cthulhu V6 DiceAre d8, 10, 12, etc. dice, fair dice?How many spell slots does a character get?How can I help players learn to tell apart the standard polyhedral dice?Are Fudge/FATE skills swamped by the dice?What's the maximum number of dice that could be rolled at any one time?Help with probability for a complicated dice pool mechanicWhat dice do I need to make for a Pathfinder player?How can I explain how to play D&D to new players without them falling asleep from boredom?
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I just started playing and am borrowing my friends dice every time we play. I am looking to buy my own. How many sets do I need to buy?
dnd-5e dice
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I just started playing and am borrowing my friends dice every time we play. I am looking to buy my own. How many sets do I need to buy?
dnd-5e dice
New contributor
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2
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By "set", you mean what? What is included in the set you are considering getting?
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– Johnny
8 hours ago
2
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Related on do I need extra dice?
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– NautArch
7 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
I just started playing and am borrowing my friends dice every time we play. I am looking to buy my own. How many sets do I need to buy?
dnd-5e dice
New contributor
$endgroup$
I just started playing and am borrowing my friends dice every time we play. I am looking to buy my own. How many sets do I need to buy?
dnd-5e dice
dnd-5e dice
New contributor
New contributor
edited 7 hours ago
V2Blast
30.6k5112185
30.6k5112185
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asked 8 hours ago
Undead-bedheadUndead-bedhead
30711
30711
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2
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By "set", you mean what? What is included in the set you are considering getting?
$endgroup$
– Johnny
8 hours ago
2
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Related on do I need extra dice?
$endgroup$
– NautArch
7 hours ago
add a comment |
2
$begingroup$
By "set", you mean what? What is included in the set you are considering getting?
$endgroup$
– Johnny
8 hours ago
2
$begingroup$
Related on do I need extra dice?
$endgroup$
– NautArch
7 hours ago
2
2
$begingroup$
By "set", you mean what? What is included in the set you are considering getting?
$endgroup$
– Johnny
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
By "set", you mean what? What is included in the set you are considering getting?
$endgroup$
– Johnny
8 hours ago
2
2
$begingroup$
Related on do I need extra dice?
$endgroup$
– NautArch
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
Related on do I need extra dice?
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– NautArch
7 hours ago
add a comment |
6 Answers
6
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
For a player
Three or four sets will cover almost everything you could ever want. This will mean you have at least 2d20’s for advantage/disadvantage, at least 3d6’s to roll for abilities and a handful of other dice for rolling damage or hit points. 4d6 is preferable as it means you can drop the lowest each time.
Different classes have different hit die or some add certain dice to each of their attacks at higher levels. Different weapons and spells also use different types of dice for damage, such as a d4 for daggers. Rolling a d6 six times every time you wanted to attack something would get extremely tedious very quickly. The more dice you have on hand, the faster you can get rolls done which keeps the game flowing.
For a DM
Many sets of dice are extremely useful, some traps, like those found in Xanathar’s Guide to Everything, require 24d10’s! Also, if you run encounters with large hordes of creatures, rolling a fist full of dice is so much easier and quicker than rolling for each creature individually. Having a large stockpile of dice is also nice as it means every player has their own dice to use.
Personally, I have somewhere in the region of 400+ dice, mostly d6’s and d20’s but theres a fair amount of every dice. I simply bought few bags of 100+ dice which weighed about a pound each, my dice-bag bag weighs 1.5kg (which I find to be amusing as 1.5kg is about the same weight as your average medieval longsword).
It is often far cheaper to buy dice in bulk quantities. I often see a bag of seven dice priced at the same amount, if not more, as a bag of 100. I will inform you that these “pound of dice” or “100+ dice” bags primarily consist of factory 2nds. This simply means that, whilst they are perfectly serviceable, they have minor visual imperfections. From my experience, the vast majority of my dice are perfectly fine and I do not see why they would be considered 2nds, you get the exact same types and styles of dice you may find in stores or online. One issue I found when I bought a 100+ bag was that it was hard to make sets, simply because i wanted them to be organised by colour or style. However, this issue was easily overcome by buying 2 more 100+ bags :P
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add a comment |
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As the others have suggested, I would recommend the standard set of polyhedral dice; a d4, d6, d8, d10, d12, d20 and d100 (although that last one isn't as often used).
I personally also add to this a second d20 (useful for when rolling with advantage or disadvantage) and 3 extra d6s (so that you have a total of 4d6 when rolling up new stats, if your DM uses that method for character creation).
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1
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@Johnny I noticed that seconds after posting the answer. I was hoping that no-one noticed, but you must have seen it in the seconds between me posting and editing!
$endgroup$
– NathanS
7 hours ago
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Grasshopper is ready to leave the monastery.
$endgroup$
– Johnny
7 hours ago
3
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Just as a bit of clarification for newer players, you don’t need a d100 dice (as in the golfball-sized dice labeled 1 to 100), a d100 dice can be replicated using a percentile dice (numbers go up in 10’s from 00 to 90) and a d10. You simply roll both dice together and add their results to get your 1-100 number. One thing to keep in mind is if you roll 0 and 00, this represents 100 as it is not possible to roll less than 1.
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– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
add a comment |
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The standard set of 7 polyhedral dice is the bare minimum. It should include dice with four, six, eight, twelve and twenty sides as well as two with ten sides (one will be numbered 1 to 10, the other 10 to 90).
Depending on what class you play you might want to get some extra dice for damage rolls. For example, if you play a wizard or sorcerer you might want to have extra six and eight sided dice for spells such as Fireball and Cone of Cold.
You could also just go on eBay and search for a pound of dice or assorted dice.
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4
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I suggest bringing a second d20. It's nice to have 2d20s available for rolls with (dis)advantage.
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– fabian
7 hours ago
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Four d6s is also good to have in the case of rolling for stats; typically, the suggested roll method is "roll 4d6 and drop the lowest, 6 times".
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– V2Blast
6 hours ago
add a comment |
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I have a single set, including d4, d6, d8, d10, D12, d20, d% and d20. That is the standard for a 'set' and I have never wished for more dice.
That said, some people like multiple sets, and whenever one die rolls badly they switch to another one, so there is lots of room for preference, but 1 is good enough.
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d% usually includes 2 d10 one of which can be used for d10 rolls. Are you suggesting to bring 3 ten-sided dice in total?
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– fabian
7 hours ago
1
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I should note that changing dice when they roll badly isn't entirely superstition. Most d20 dice aren't actually evenly sized due to how they are manufactured.
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– Allan Mills
7 hours ago
3
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@AllanMills it pretty much is though. You need a large sample size of rolls to truly tell if a die is fair and people tend to only remember bad rolls and ignore the good.
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– Rubiksmoose
5 hours ago
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@fabian d% or percentile dice refers to the dice labeled 00, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90. When rolling to get a number from 1 to 100, you roll a d% and d10 together. This mimics the effect of rolling a d100 without the need for carrying a bulky golfball-sized dice around. Its also cheaper to produce and buy d% and d10 dice, another reason why they are used more commonly than actual d100 dice.
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– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
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@Rubiksmoose Supposedly you can determine if a dice is fair by placing it in a glass of water and observing if one side or number is always on top. If there was an air bubble or less material in one part of the dice, that section would be less dense and float better than the other sections of the dice. If one part of the dice is lighter than the rest, the number on that part will usually show up more often. Realistically though the actual impact of one part being lighter than the rest is likely negligible, most case of biased dice are, as you say, most likely due to observer bias.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Minimally, each player will need a single d20, one die corresponding to your class's hit die size, and one die corresponding to their most commonly used attack. A barbarian with a greataxe can even get away with the d20 and a d12. (Occasionally borrowing a die from someone else for specific situations.)
Of course, usually, you'll have a more complicated character where you have different-sized weapons, abilities which use different dice, and so on. A single basic set of polyhedral dice will cover these, although you may find yourself rolling one of them several times in a row and adding.
Rolling multiple times like that can really slow the game down — not as badly in 5E as in previous editions, but enough that it really can add up over the course of an evening. So, I suggest that you at least have two d20s, so you can roll both at once in situations of advantage or disadvantage.
If you have class features which require an additional die, and you don't have an additional die, that also slows things down. For example, rogues frequently add a d6 to damage — and multiple d6s at higher levels. You should have dice on hand for any frequently-used features like this. But this really varies by class selection and even particular path chosen, so there's no general rule.
When I've run games for middle-school kids generally with no previous D&D experience, I have actually given each kid a set of dice pre-matched to their pre-generated character. Two d20s for everyone, and other dice for their main attacks and signature features.
If you're a spellcaster, at higher levels, you'll probably want a wide selection of dice, because spells often require a handful of them. For example, good old fireball does 6d6, and cone of cold is 8d8. If you do that a lot, rolling eight times and adding as you go will get tedious for everyone. You don't necessarily need all eight, though: rolling 4d6 or 4d8 twice will do.
(Bonus tip: roll your d20 for to-hit and the damage die or dice at the same time too, rather than one after the other. If you miss, just ignore the damage die, and if you hit, it's already rolled.)
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Four d6s is also good to have in the case of rolling for stats; typically, the suggested roll method is "roll 4d6 and drop the lowest, 6 times".
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– V2Blast
6 hours ago
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@V2Blast True, although unless you're creating characters a lot, you don't really need them — they're easily borrowed.
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– mattdm
6 hours ago
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True, but I'd say you need a collective total of at least 4d6 then - which is simple if every player has at least one of each die.
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– V2Blast
6 hours ago
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@V2Blast Yes, exactly.
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– mattdm
5 hours ago
add a comment |
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About this many.
Give or take a handful.
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add a comment |
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6 Answers
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6 Answers
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$begingroup$
For a player
Three or four sets will cover almost everything you could ever want. This will mean you have at least 2d20’s for advantage/disadvantage, at least 3d6’s to roll for abilities and a handful of other dice for rolling damage or hit points. 4d6 is preferable as it means you can drop the lowest each time.
Different classes have different hit die or some add certain dice to each of their attacks at higher levels. Different weapons and spells also use different types of dice for damage, such as a d4 for daggers. Rolling a d6 six times every time you wanted to attack something would get extremely tedious very quickly. The more dice you have on hand, the faster you can get rolls done which keeps the game flowing.
For a DM
Many sets of dice are extremely useful, some traps, like those found in Xanathar’s Guide to Everything, require 24d10’s! Also, if you run encounters with large hordes of creatures, rolling a fist full of dice is so much easier and quicker than rolling for each creature individually. Having a large stockpile of dice is also nice as it means every player has their own dice to use.
Personally, I have somewhere in the region of 400+ dice, mostly d6’s and d20’s but theres a fair amount of every dice. I simply bought few bags of 100+ dice which weighed about a pound each, my dice-bag bag weighs 1.5kg (which I find to be amusing as 1.5kg is about the same weight as your average medieval longsword).
It is often far cheaper to buy dice in bulk quantities. I often see a bag of seven dice priced at the same amount, if not more, as a bag of 100. I will inform you that these “pound of dice” or “100+ dice” bags primarily consist of factory 2nds. This simply means that, whilst they are perfectly serviceable, they have minor visual imperfections. From my experience, the vast majority of my dice are perfectly fine and I do not see why they would be considered 2nds, you get the exact same types and styles of dice you may find in stores or online. One issue I found when I bought a 100+ bag was that it was hard to make sets, simply because i wanted them to be organised by colour or style. However, this issue was easily overcome by buying 2 more 100+ bags :P
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
For a player
Three or four sets will cover almost everything you could ever want. This will mean you have at least 2d20’s for advantage/disadvantage, at least 3d6’s to roll for abilities and a handful of other dice for rolling damage or hit points. 4d6 is preferable as it means you can drop the lowest each time.
Different classes have different hit die or some add certain dice to each of their attacks at higher levels. Different weapons and spells also use different types of dice for damage, such as a d4 for daggers. Rolling a d6 six times every time you wanted to attack something would get extremely tedious very quickly. The more dice you have on hand, the faster you can get rolls done which keeps the game flowing.
For a DM
Many sets of dice are extremely useful, some traps, like those found in Xanathar’s Guide to Everything, require 24d10’s! Also, if you run encounters with large hordes of creatures, rolling a fist full of dice is so much easier and quicker than rolling for each creature individually. Having a large stockpile of dice is also nice as it means every player has their own dice to use.
Personally, I have somewhere in the region of 400+ dice, mostly d6’s and d20’s but theres a fair amount of every dice. I simply bought few bags of 100+ dice which weighed about a pound each, my dice-bag bag weighs 1.5kg (which I find to be amusing as 1.5kg is about the same weight as your average medieval longsword).
It is often far cheaper to buy dice in bulk quantities. I often see a bag of seven dice priced at the same amount, if not more, as a bag of 100. I will inform you that these “pound of dice” or “100+ dice” bags primarily consist of factory 2nds. This simply means that, whilst they are perfectly serviceable, they have minor visual imperfections. From my experience, the vast majority of my dice are perfectly fine and I do not see why they would be considered 2nds, you get the exact same types and styles of dice you may find in stores or online. One issue I found when I bought a 100+ bag was that it was hard to make sets, simply because i wanted them to be organised by colour or style. However, this issue was easily overcome by buying 2 more 100+ bags :P
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
For a player
Three or four sets will cover almost everything you could ever want. This will mean you have at least 2d20’s for advantage/disadvantage, at least 3d6’s to roll for abilities and a handful of other dice for rolling damage or hit points. 4d6 is preferable as it means you can drop the lowest each time.
Different classes have different hit die or some add certain dice to each of their attacks at higher levels. Different weapons and spells also use different types of dice for damage, such as a d4 for daggers. Rolling a d6 six times every time you wanted to attack something would get extremely tedious very quickly. The more dice you have on hand, the faster you can get rolls done which keeps the game flowing.
For a DM
Many sets of dice are extremely useful, some traps, like those found in Xanathar’s Guide to Everything, require 24d10’s! Also, if you run encounters with large hordes of creatures, rolling a fist full of dice is so much easier and quicker than rolling for each creature individually. Having a large stockpile of dice is also nice as it means every player has their own dice to use.
Personally, I have somewhere in the region of 400+ dice, mostly d6’s and d20’s but theres a fair amount of every dice. I simply bought few bags of 100+ dice which weighed about a pound each, my dice-bag bag weighs 1.5kg (which I find to be amusing as 1.5kg is about the same weight as your average medieval longsword).
It is often far cheaper to buy dice in bulk quantities. I often see a bag of seven dice priced at the same amount, if not more, as a bag of 100. I will inform you that these “pound of dice” or “100+ dice” bags primarily consist of factory 2nds. This simply means that, whilst they are perfectly serviceable, they have minor visual imperfections. From my experience, the vast majority of my dice are perfectly fine and I do not see why they would be considered 2nds, you get the exact same types and styles of dice you may find in stores or online. One issue I found when I bought a 100+ bag was that it was hard to make sets, simply because i wanted them to be organised by colour or style. However, this issue was easily overcome by buying 2 more 100+ bags :P
$endgroup$
For a player
Three or four sets will cover almost everything you could ever want. This will mean you have at least 2d20’s for advantage/disadvantage, at least 3d6’s to roll for abilities and a handful of other dice for rolling damage or hit points. 4d6 is preferable as it means you can drop the lowest each time.
Different classes have different hit die or some add certain dice to each of their attacks at higher levels. Different weapons and spells also use different types of dice for damage, such as a d4 for daggers. Rolling a d6 six times every time you wanted to attack something would get extremely tedious very quickly. The more dice you have on hand, the faster you can get rolls done which keeps the game flowing.
For a DM
Many sets of dice are extremely useful, some traps, like those found in Xanathar’s Guide to Everything, require 24d10’s! Also, if you run encounters with large hordes of creatures, rolling a fist full of dice is so much easier and quicker than rolling for each creature individually. Having a large stockpile of dice is also nice as it means every player has their own dice to use.
Personally, I have somewhere in the region of 400+ dice, mostly d6’s and d20’s but theres a fair amount of every dice. I simply bought few bags of 100+ dice which weighed about a pound each, my dice-bag bag weighs 1.5kg (which I find to be amusing as 1.5kg is about the same weight as your average medieval longsword).
It is often far cheaper to buy dice in bulk quantities. I often see a bag of seven dice priced at the same amount, if not more, as a bag of 100. I will inform you that these “pound of dice” or “100+ dice” bags primarily consist of factory 2nds. This simply means that, whilst they are perfectly serviceable, they have minor visual imperfections. From my experience, the vast majority of my dice are perfectly fine and I do not see why they would be considered 2nds, you get the exact same types and styles of dice you may find in stores or online. One issue I found when I bought a 100+ bag was that it was hard to make sets, simply because i wanted them to be organised by colour or style. However, this issue was easily overcome by buying 2 more 100+ bags :P
answered 6 hours ago
Liam MorrisLiam Morris
1,671527
1,671527
add a comment |
add a comment |
$begingroup$
As the others have suggested, I would recommend the standard set of polyhedral dice; a d4, d6, d8, d10, d12, d20 and d100 (although that last one isn't as often used).
I personally also add to this a second d20 (useful for when rolling with advantage or disadvantage) and 3 extra d6s (so that you have a total of 4d6 when rolling up new stats, if your DM uses that method for character creation).
$endgroup$
1
$begingroup$
@Johnny I noticed that seconds after posting the answer. I was hoping that no-one noticed, but you must have seen it in the seconds between me posting and editing!
$endgroup$
– NathanS
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
Grasshopper is ready to leave the monastery.
$endgroup$
– Johnny
7 hours ago
3
$begingroup$
Just as a bit of clarification for newer players, you don’t need a d100 dice (as in the golfball-sized dice labeled 1 to 100), a d100 dice can be replicated using a percentile dice (numbers go up in 10’s from 00 to 90) and a d10. You simply roll both dice together and add their results to get your 1-100 number. One thing to keep in mind is if you roll 0 and 00, this represents 100 as it is not possible to roll less than 1.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
As the others have suggested, I would recommend the standard set of polyhedral dice; a d4, d6, d8, d10, d12, d20 and d100 (although that last one isn't as often used).
I personally also add to this a second d20 (useful for when rolling with advantage or disadvantage) and 3 extra d6s (so that you have a total of 4d6 when rolling up new stats, if your DM uses that method for character creation).
$endgroup$
1
$begingroup$
@Johnny I noticed that seconds after posting the answer. I was hoping that no-one noticed, but you must have seen it in the seconds between me posting and editing!
$endgroup$
– NathanS
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
Grasshopper is ready to leave the monastery.
$endgroup$
– Johnny
7 hours ago
3
$begingroup$
Just as a bit of clarification for newer players, you don’t need a d100 dice (as in the golfball-sized dice labeled 1 to 100), a d100 dice can be replicated using a percentile dice (numbers go up in 10’s from 00 to 90) and a d10. You simply roll both dice together and add their results to get your 1-100 number. One thing to keep in mind is if you roll 0 and 00, this represents 100 as it is not possible to roll less than 1.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
As the others have suggested, I would recommend the standard set of polyhedral dice; a d4, d6, d8, d10, d12, d20 and d100 (although that last one isn't as often used).
I personally also add to this a second d20 (useful for when rolling with advantage or disadvantage) and 3 extra d6s (so that you have a total of 4d6 when rolling up new stats, if your DM uses that method for character creation).
$endgroup$
As the others have suggested, I would recommend the standard set of polyhedral dice; a d4, d6, d8, d10, d12, d20 and d100 (although that last one isn't as often used).
I personally also add to this a second d20 (useful for when rolling with advantage or disadvantage) and 3 extra d6s (so that you have a total of 4d6 when rolling up new stats, if your DM uses that method for character creation).
answered 7 hours ago
NathanSNathanS
28.7k12144303
28.7k12144303
1
$begingroup$
@Johnny I noticed that seconds after posting the answer. I was hoping that no-one noticed, but you must have seen it in the seconds between me posting and editing!
$endgroup$
– NathanS
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
Grasshopper is ready to leave the monastery.
$endgroup$
– Johnny
7 hours ago
3
$begingroup$
Just as a bit of clarification for newer players, you don’t need a d100 dice (as in the golfball-sized dice labeled 1 to 100), a d100 dice can be replicated using a percentile dice (numbers go up in 10’s from 00 to 90) and a d10. You simply roll both dice together and add their results to get your 1-100 number. One thing to keep in mind is if you roll 0 and 00, this represents 100 as it is not possible to roll less than 1.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
add a comment |
1
$begingroup$
@Johnny I noticed that seconds after posting the answer. I was hoping that no-one noticed, but you must have seen it in the seconds between me posting and editing!
$endgroup$
– NathanS
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
Grasshopper is ready to leave the monastery.
$endgroup$
– Johnny
7 hours ago
3
$begingroup$
Just as a bit of clarification for newer players, you don’t need a d100 dice (as in the golfball-sized dice labeled 1 to 100), a d100 dice can be replicated using a percentile dice (numbers go up in 10’s from 00 to 90) and a d10. You simply roll both dice together and add their results to get your 1-100 number. One thing to keep in mind is if you roll 0 and 00, this represents 100 as it is not possible to roll less than 1.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
1
1
$begingroup$
@Johnny I noticed that seconds after posting the answer. I was hoping that no-one noticed, but you must have seen it in the seconds between me posting and editing!
$endgroup$
– NathanS
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
@Johnny I noticed that seconds after posting the answer. I was hoping that no-one noticed, but you must have seen it in the seconds between me posting and editing!
$endgroup$
– NathanS
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
Grasshopper is ready to leave the monastery.
$endgroup$
– Johnny
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
Grasshopper is ready to leave the monastery.
$endgroup$
– Johnny
7 hours ago
3
3
$begingroup$
Just as a bit of clarification for newer players, you don’t need a d100 dice (as in the golfball-sized dice labeled 1 to 100), a d100 dice can be replicated using a percentile dice (numbers go up in 10’s from 00 to 90) and a d10. You simply roll both dice together and add their results to get your 1-100 number. One thing to keep in mind is if you roll 0 and 00, this represents 100 as it is not possible to roll less than 1.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
Just as a bit of clarification for newer players, you don’t need a d100 dice (as in the golfball-sized dice labeled 1 to 100), a d100 dice can be replicated using a percentile dice (numbers go up in 10’s from 00 to 90) and a d10. You simply roll both dice together and add their results to get your 1-100 number. One thing to keep in mind is if you roll 0 and 00, this represents 100 as it is not possible to roll less than 1.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The standard set of 7 polyhedral dice is the bare minimum. It should include dice with four, six, eight, twelve and twenty sides as well as two with ten sides (one will be numbered 1 to 10, the other 10 to 90).
Depending on what class you play you might want to get some extra dice for damage rolls. For example, if you play a wizard or sorcerer you might want to have extra six and eight sided dice for spells such as Fireball and Cone of Cold.
You could also just go on eBay and search for a pound of dice or assorted dice.
$endgroup$
4
$begingroup$
I suggest bringing a second d20. It's nice to have 2d20s available for rolls with (dis)advantage.
$endgroup$
– fabian
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
Four d6s is also good to have in the case of rolling for stats; typically, the suggested roll method is "roll 4d6 and drop the lowest, 6 times".
$endgroup$
– V2Blast
6 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The standard set of 7 polyhedral dice is the bare minimum. It should include dice with four, six, eight, twelve and twenty sides as well as two with ten sides (one will be numbered 1 to 10, the other 10 to 90).
Depending on what class you play you might want to get some extra dice for damage rolls. For example, if you play a wizard or sorcerer you might want to have extra six and eight sided dice for spells such as Fireball and Cone of Cold.
You could also just go on eBay and search for a pound of dice or assorted dice.
$endgroup$
4
$begingroup$
I suggest bringing a second d20. It's nice to have 2d20s available for rolls with (dis)advantage.
$endgroup$
– fabian
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
Four d6s is also good to have in the case of rolling for stats; typically, the suggested roll method is "roll 4d6 and drop the lowest, 6 times".
$endgroup$
– V2Blast
6 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
The standard set of 7 polyhedral dice is the bare minimum. It should include dice with four, six, eight, twelve and twenty sides as well as two with ten sides (one will be numbered 1 to 10, the other 10 to 90).
Depending on what class you play you might want to get some extra dice for damage rolls. For example, if you play a wizard or sorcerer you might want to have extra six and eight sided dice for spells such as Fireball and Cone of Cold.
You could also just go on eBay and search for a pound of dice or assorted dice.
$endgroup$
The standard set of 7 polyhedral dice is the bare minimum. It should include dice with four, six, eight, twelve and twenty sides as well as two with ten sides (one will be numbered 1 to 10, the other 10 to 90).
Depending on what class you play you might want to get some extra dice for damage rolls. For example, if you play a wizard or sorcerer you might want to have extra six and eight sided dice for spells such as Fireball and Cone of Cold.
You could also just go on eBay and search for a pound of dice or assorted dice.
edited 4 hours ago
Liam Morris
1,671527
1,671527
answered 8 hours ago
Allan MillsAllan Mills
2,956327
2,956327
4
$begingroup$
I suggest bringing a second d20. It's nice to have 2d20s available for rolls with (dis)advantage.
$endgroup$
– fabian
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
Four d6s is also good to have in the case of rolling for stats; typically, the suggested roll method is "roll 4d6 and drop the lowest, 6 times".
$endgroup$
– V2Blast
6 hours ago
add a comment |
4
$begingroup$
I suggest bringing a second d20. It's nice to have 2d20s available for rolls with (dis)advantage.
$endgroup$
– fabian
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
Four d6s is also good to have in the case of rolling for stats; typically, the suggested roll method is "roll 4d6 and drop the lowest, 6 times".
$endgroup$
– V2Blast
6 hours ago
4
4
$begingroup$
I suggest bringing a second d20. It's nice to have 2d20s available for rolls with (dis)advantage.
$endgroup$
– fabian
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
I suggest bringing a second d20. It's nice to have 2d20s available for rolls with (dis)advantage.
$endgroup$
– fabian
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
Four d6s is also good to have in the case of rolling for stats; typically, the suggested roll method is "roll 4d6 and drop the lowest, 6 times".
$endgroup$
– V2Blast
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
Four d6s is also good to have in the case of rolling for stats; typically, the suggested roll method is "roll 4d6 and drop the lowest, 6 times".
$endgroup$
– V2Blast
6 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
I have a single set, including d4, d6, d8, d10, D12, d20, d% and d20. That is the standard for a 'set' and I have never wished for more dice.
That said, some people like multiple sets, and whenever one die rolls badly they switch to another one, so there is lots of room for preference, but 1 is good enough.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
d% usually includes 2 d10 one of which can be used for d10 rolls. Are you suggesting to bring 3 ten-sided dice in total?
$endgroup$
– fabian
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
I should note that changing dice when they roll badly isn't entirely superstition. Most d20 dice aren't actually evenly sized due to how they are manufactured.
$endgroup$
– Allan Mills
7 hours ago
3
$begingroup$
@AllanMills it pretty much is though. You need a large sample size of rolls to truly tell if a die is fair and people tend to only remember bad rolls and ignore the good.
$endgroup$
– Rubiksmoose
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@fabian d% or percentile dice refers to the dice labeled 00, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90. When rolling to get a number from 1 to 100, you roll a d% and d10 together. This mimics the effect of rolling a d100 without the need for carrying a bulky golfball-sized dice around. Its also cheaper to produce and buy d% and d10 dice, another reason why they are used more commonly than actual d100 dice.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@Rubiksmoose Supposedly you can determine if a dice is fair by placing it in a glass of water and observing if one side or number is always on top. If there was an air bubble or less material in one part of the dice, that section would be less dense and float better than the other sections of the dice. If one part of the dice is lighter than the rest, the number on that part will usually show up more often. Realistically though the actual impact of one part being lighter than the rest is likely negligible, most case of biased dice are, as you say, most likely due to observer bias.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
I have a single set, including d4, d6, d8, d10, D12, d20, d% and d20. That is the standard for a 'set' and I have never wished for more dice.
That said, some people like multiple sets, and whenever one die rolls badly they switch to another one, so there is lots of room for preference, but 1 is good enough.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
d% usually includes 2 d10 one of which can be used for d10 rolls. Are you suggesting to bring 3 ten-sided dice in total?
$endgroup$
– fabian
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
I should note that changing dice when they roll badly isn't entirely superstition. Most d20 dice aren't actually evenly sized due to how they are manufactured.
$endgroup$
– Allan Mills
7 hours ago
3
$begingroup$
@AllanMills it pretty much is though. You need a large sample size of rolls to truly tell if a die is fair and people tend to only remember bad rolls and ignore the good.
$endgroup$
– Rubiksmoose
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@fabian d% or percentile dice refers to the dice labeled 00, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90. When rolling to get a number from 1 to 100, you roll a d% and d10 together. This mimics the effect of rolling a d100 without the need for carrying a bulky golfball-sized dice around. Its also cheaper to produce and buy d% and d10 dice, another reason why they are used more commonly than actual d100 dice.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@Rubiksmoose Supposedly you can determine if a dice is fair by placing it in a glass of water and observing if one side or number is always on top. If there was an air bubble or less material in one part of the dice, that section would be less dense and float better than the other sections of the dice. If one part of the dice is lighter than the rest, the number on that part will usually show up more often. Realistically though the actual impact of one part being lighter than the rest is likely negligible, most case of biased dice are, as you say, most likely due to observer bias.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
I have a single set, including d4, d6, d8, d10, D12, d20, d% and d20. That is the standard for a 'set' and I have never wished for more dice.
That said, some people like multiple sets, and whenever one die rolls badly they switch to another one, so there is lots of room for preference, but 1 is good enough.
$endgroup$
I have a single set, including d4, d6, d8, d10, D12, d20, d% and d20. That is the standard for a 'set' and I have never wished for more dice.
That said, some people like multiple sets, and whenever one die rolls badly they switch to another one, so there is lots of room for preference, but 1 is good enough.
answered 7 hours ago
SeriousBriSeriousBri
7,28822056
7,28822056
$begingroup$
d% usually includes 2 d10 one of which can be used for d10 rolls. Are you suggesting to bring 3 ten-sided dice in total?
$endgroup$
– fabian
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
I should note that changing dice when they roll badly isn't entirely superstition. Most d20 dice aren't actually evenly sized due to how they are manufactured.
$endgroup$
– Allan Mills
7 hours ago
3
$begingroup$
@AllanMills it pretty much is though. You need a large sample size of rolls to truly tell if a die is fair and people tend to only remember bad rolls and ignore the good.
$endgroup$
– Rubiksmoose
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@fabian d% or percentile dice refers to the dice labeled 00, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90. When rolling to get a number from 1 to 100, you roll a d% and d10 together. This mimics the effect of rolling a d100 without the need for carrying a bulky golfball-sized dice around. Its also cheaper to produce and buy d% and d10 dice, another reason why they are used more commonly than actual d100 dice.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@Rubiksmoose Supposedly you can determine if a dice is fair by placing it in a glass of water and observing if one side or number is always on top. If there was an air bubble or less material in one part of the dice, that section would be less dense and float better than the other sections of the dice. If one part of the dice is lighter than the rest, the number on that part will usually show up more often. Realistically though the actual impact of one part being lighter than the rest is likely negligible, most case of biased dice are, as you say, most likely due to observer bias.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
d% usually includes 2 d10 one of which can be used for d10 rolls. Are you suggesting to bring 3 ten-sided dice in total?
$endgroup$
– fabian
7 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
I should note that changing dice when they roll badly isn't entirely superstition. Most d20 dice aren't actually evenly sized due to how they are manufactured.
$endgroup$
– Allan Mills
7 hours ago
3
$begingroup$
@AllanMills it pretty much is though. You need a large sample size of rolls to truly tell if a die is fair and people tend to only remember bad rolls and ignore the good.
$endgroup$
– Rubiksmoose
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@fabian d% or percentile dice refers to the dice labeled 00, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90. When rolling to get a number from 1 to 100, you roll a d% and d10 together. This mimics the effect of rolling a d100 without the need for carrying a bulky golfball-sized dice around. Its also cheaper to produce and buy d% and d10 dice, another reason why they are used more commonly than actual d100 dice.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@Rubiksmoose Supposedly you can determine if a dice is fair by placing it in a glass of water and observing if one side or number is always on top. If there was an air bubble or less material in one part of the dice, that section would be less dense and float better than the other sections of the dice. If one part of the dice is lighter than the rest, the number on that part will usually show up more often. Realistically though the actual impact of one part being lighter than the rest is likely negligible, most case of biased dice are, as you say, most likely due to observer bias.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
d% usually includes 2 d10 one of which can be used for d10 rolls. Are you suggesting to bring 3 ten-sided dice in total?
$endgroup$
– fabian
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
d% usually includes 2 d10 one of which can be used for d10 rolls. Are you suggesting to bring 3 ten-sided dice in total?
$endgroup$
– fabian
7 hours ago
1
1
$begingroup$
I should note that changing dice when they roll badly isn't entirely superstition. Most d20 dice aren't actually evenly sized due to how they are manufactured.
$endgroup$
– Allan Mills
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
I should note that changing dice when they roll badly isn't entirely superstition. Most d20 dice aren't actually evenly sized due to how they are manufactured.
$endgroup$
– Allan Mills
7 hours ago
3
3
$begingroup$
@AllanMills it pretty much is though. You need a large sample size of rolls to truly tell if a die is fair and people tend to only remember bad rolls and ignore the good.
$endgroup$
– Rubiksmoose
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@AllanMills it pretty much is though. You need a large sample size of rolls to truly tell if a die is fair and people tend to only remember bad rolls and ignore the good.
$endgroup$
– Rubiksmoose
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@fabian d% or percentile dice refers to the dice labeled 00, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90. When rolling to get a number from 1 to 100, you roll a d% and d10 together. This mimics the effect of rolling a d100 without the need for carrying a bulky golfball-sized dice around. Its also cheaper to produce and buy d% and d10 dice, another reason why they are used more commonly than actual d100 dice.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@fabian d% or percentile dice refers to the dice labeled 00, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90. When rolling to get a number from 1 to 100, you roll a d% and d10 together. This mimics the effect of rolling a d100 without the need for carrying a bulky golfball-sized dice around. Its also cheaper to produce and buy d% and d10 dice, another reason why they are used more commonly than actual d100 dice.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@Rubiksmoose Supposedly you can determine if a dice is fair by placing it in a glass of water and observing if one side or number is always on top. If there was an air bubble or less material in one part of the dice, that section would be less dense and float better than the other sections of the dice. If one part of the dice is lighter than the rest, the number on that part will usually show up more often. Realistically though the actual impact of one part being lighter than the rest is likely negligible, most case of biased dice are, as you say, most likely due to observer bias.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@Rubiksmoose Supposedly you can determine if a dice is fair by placing it in a glass of water and observing if one side or number is always on top. If there was an air bubble or less material in one part of the dice, that section would be less dense and float better than the other sections of the dice. If one part of the dice is lighter than the rest, the number on that part will usually show up more often. Realistically though the actual impact of one part being lighter than the rest is likely negligible, most case of biased dice are, as you say, most likely due to observer bias.
$endgroup$
– Liam Morris
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Minimally, each player will need a single d20, one die corresponding to your class's hit die size, and one die corresponding to their most commonly used attack. A barbarian with a greataxe can even get away with the d20 and a d12. (Occasionally borrowing a die from someone else for specific situations.)
Of course, usually, you'll have a more complicated character where you have different-sized weapons, abilities which use different dice, and so on. A single basic set of polyhedral dice will cover these, although you may find yourself rolling one of them several times in a row and adding.
Rolling multiple times like that can really slow the game down — not as badly in 5E as in previous editions, but enough that it really can add up over the course of an evening. So, I suggest that you at least have two d20s, so you can roll both at once in situations of advantage or disadvantage.
If you have class features which require an additional die, and you don't have an additional die, that also slows things down. For example, rogues frequently add a d6 to damage — and multiple d6s at higher levels. You should have dice on hand for any frequently-used features like this. But this really varies by class selection and even particular path chosen, so there's no general rule.
When I've run games for middle-school kids generally with no previous D&D experience, I have actually given each kid a set of dice pre-matched to their pre-generated character. Two d20s for everyone, and other dice for their main attacks and signature features.
If you're a spellcaster, at higher levels, you'll probably want a wide selection of dice, because spells often require a handful of them. For example, good old fireball does 6d6, and cone of cold is 8d8. If you do that a lot, rolling eight times and adding as you go will get tedious for everyone. You don't necessarily need all eight, though: rolling 4d6 or 4d8 twice will do.
(Bonus tip: roll your d20 for to-hit and the damage die or dice at the same time too, rather than one after the other. If you miss, just ignore the damage die, and if you hit, it's already rolled.)
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Four d6s is also good to have in the case of rolling for stats; typically, the suggested roll method is "roll 4d6 and drop the lowest, 6 times".
$endgroup$
– V2Blast
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
@V2Blast True, although unless you're creating characters a lot, you don't really need them — they're easily borrowed.
$endgroup$
– mattdm
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
True, but I'd say you need a collective total of at least 4d6 then - which is simple if every player has at least one of each die.
$endgroup$
– V2Blast
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
@V2Blast Yes, exactly.
$endgroup$
– mattdm
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Minimally, each player will need a single d20, one die corresponding to your class's hit die size, and one die corresponding to their most commonly used attack. A barbarian with a greataxe can even get away with the d20 and a d12. (Occasionally borrowing a die from someone else for specific situations.)
Of course, usually, you'll have a more complicated character where you have different-sized weapons, abilities which use different dice, and so on. A single basic set of polyhedral dice will cover these, although you may find yourself rolling one of them several times in a row and adding.
Rolling multiple times like that can really slow the game down — not as badly in 5E as in previous editions, but enough that it really can add up over the course of an evening. So, I suggest that you at least have two d20s, so you can roll both at once in situations of advantage or disadvantage.
If you have class features which require an additional die, and you don't have an additional die, that also slows things down. For example, rogues frequently add a d6 to damage — and multiple d6s at higher levels. You should have dice on hand for any frequently-used features like this. But this really varies by class selection and even particular path chosen, so there's no general rule.
When I've run games for middle-school kids generally with no previous D&D experience, I have actually given each kid a set of dice pre-matched to their pre-generated character. Two d20s for everyone, and other dice for their main attacks and signature features.
If you're a spellcaster, at higher levels, you'll probably want a wide selection of dice, because spells often require a handful of them. For example, good old fireball does 6d6, and cone of cold is 8d8. If you do that a lot, rolling eight times and adding as you go will get tedious for everyone. You don't necessarily need all eight, though: rolling 4d6 or 4d8 twice will do.
(Bonus tip: roll your d20 for to-hit and the damage die or dice at the same time too, rather than one after the other. If you miss, just ignore the damage die, and if you hit, it's already rolled.)
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Four d6s is also good to have in the case of rolling for stats; typically, the suggested roll method is "roll 4d6 and drop the lowest, 6 times".
$endgroup$
– V2Blast
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
@V2Blast True, although unless you're creating characters a lot, you don't really need them — they're easily borrowed.
$endgroup$
– mattdm
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
True, but I'd say you need a collective total of at least 4d6 then - which is simple if every player has at least one of each die.
$endgroup$
– V2Blast
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
@V2Blast Yes, exactly.
$endgroup$
– mattdm
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Minimally, each player will need a single d20, one die corresponding to your class's hit die size, and one die corresponding to their most commonly used attack. A barbarian with a greataxe can even get away with the d20 and a d12. (Occasionally borrowing a die from someone else for specific situations.)
Of course, usually, you'll have a more complicated character where you have different-sized weapons, abilities which use different dice, and so on. A single basic set of polyhedral dice will cover these, although you may find yourself rolling one of them several times in a row and adding.
Rolling multiple times like that can really slow the game down — not as badly in 5E as in previous editions, but enough that it really can add up over the course of an evening. So, I suggest that you at least have two d20s, so you can roll both at once in situations of advantage or disadvantage.
If you have class features which require an additional die, and you don't have an additional die, that also slows things down. For example, rogues frequently add a d6 to damage — and multiple d6s at higher levels. You should have dice on hand for any frequently-used features like this. But this really varies by class selection and even particular path chosen, so there's no general rule.
When I've run games for middle-school kids generally with no previous D&D experience, I have actually given each kid a set of dice pre-matched to their pre-generated character. Two d20s for everyone, and other dice for their main attacks and signature features.
If you're a spellcaster, at higher levels, you'll probably want a wide selection of dice, because spells often require a handful of them. For example, good old fireball does 6d6, and cone of cold is 8d8. If you do that a lot, rolling eight times and adding as you go will get tedious for everyone. You don't necessarily need all eight, though: rolling 4d6 or 4d8 twice will do.
(Bonus tip: roll your d20 for to-hit and the damage die or dice at the same time too, rather than one after the other. If you miss, just ignore the damage die, and if you hit, it's already rolled.)
$endgroup$
Minimally, each player will need a single d20, one die corresponding to your class's hit die size, and one die corresponding to their most commonly used attack. A barbarian with a greataxe can even get away with the d20 and a d12. (Occasionally borrowing a die from someone else for specific situations.)
Of course, usually, you'll have a more complicated character where you have different-sized weapons, abilities which use different dice, and so on. A single basic set of polyhedral dice will cover these, although you may find yourself rolling one of them several times in a row and adding.
Rolling multiple times like that can really slow the game down — not as badly in 5E as in previous editions, but enough that it really can add up over the course of an evening. So, I suggest that you at least have two d20s, so you can roll both at once in situations of advantage or disadvantage.
If you have class features which require an additional die, and you don't have an additional die, that also slows things down. For example, rogues frequently add a d6 to damage — and multiple d6s at higher levels. You should have dice on hand for any frequently-used features like this. But this really varies by class selection and even particular path chosen, so there's no general rule.
When I've run games for middle-school kids generally with no previous D&D experience, I have actually given each kid a set of dice pre-matched to their pre-generated character. Two d20s for everyone, and other dice for their main attacks and signature features.
If you're a spellcaster, at higher levels, you'll probably want a wide selection of dice, because spells often require a handful of them. For example, good old fireball does 6d6, and cone of cold is 8d8. If you do that a lot, rolling eight times and adding as you go will get tedious for everyone. You don't necessarily need all eight, though: rolling 4d6 or 4d8 twice will do.
(Bonus tip: roll your d20 for to-hit and the damage die or dice at the same time too, rather than one after the other. If you miss, just ignore the damage die, and if you hit, it's already rolled.)
edited 2 hours ago
answered 7 hours ago
mattdmmattdm
18.4k887138
18.4k887138
$begingroup$
Four d6s is also good to have in the case of rolling for stats; typically, the suggested roll method is "roll 4d6 and drop the lowest, 6 times".
$endgroup$
– V2Blast
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
@V2Blast True, although unless you're creating characters a lot, you don't really need them — they're easily borrowed.
$endgroup$
– mattdm
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
True, but I'd say you need a collective total of at least 4d6 then - which is simple if every player has at least one of each die.
$endgroup$
– V2Blast
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
@V2Blast Yes, exactly.
$endgroup$
– mattdm
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Four d6s is also good to have in the case of rolling for stats; typically, the suggested roll method is "roll 4d6 and drop the lowest, 6 times".
$endgroup$
– V2Blast
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
@V2Blast True, although unless you're creating characters a lot, you don't really need them — they're easily borrowed.
$endgroup$
– mattdm
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
True, but I'd say you need a collective total of at least 4d6 then - which is simple if every player has at least one of each die.
$endgroup$
– V2Blast
6 hours ago
$begingroup$
@V2Blast Yes, exactly.
$endgroup$
– mattdm
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
Four d6s is also good to have in the case of rolling for stats; typically, the suggested roll method is "roll 4d6 and drop the lowest, 6 times".
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– V2Blast
6 hours ago
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Four d6s is also good to have in the case of rolling for stats; typically, the suggested roll method is "roll 4d6 and drop the lowest, 6 times".
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– V2Blast
6 hours ago
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@V2Blast True, although unless you're creating characters a lot, you don't really need them — they're easily borrowed.
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– mattdm
6 hours ago
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@V2Blast True, although unless you're creating characters a lot, you don't really need them — they're easily borrowed.
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– mattdm
6 hours ago
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True, but I'd say you need a collective total of at least 4d6 then - which is simple if every player has at least one of each die.
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– V2Blast
6 hours ago
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True, but I'd say you need a collective total of at least 4d6 then - which is simple if every player has at least one of each die.
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– V2Blast
6 hours ago
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@V2Blast Yes, exactly.
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– mattdm
5 hours ago
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@V2Blast Yes, exactly.
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– mattdm
5 hours ago
add a comment |
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About this many.
Give or take a handful.
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add a comment |
$begingroup$
About this many.
Give or take a handful.
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add a comment |
$begingroup$
About this many.
Give or take a handful.
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About this many.
Give or take a handful.
answered 5 mins ago
Lino Frank CiaralliLino Frank Ciaralli
24.3k777137
24.3k777137
add a comment |
add a comment |
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2
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By "set", you mean what? What is included in the set you are considering getting?
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– Johnny
8 hours ago
2
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Related on do I need extra dice?
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– NautArch
7 hours ago