Will My Circuit Work As intended?easiest way to detect a switch change using an arduinoCan someone review my first Arduino schematic please?Supply voltage for MOSFET driver in high-voltage (110v) PWM regulatorUsing transistors to minimize the number of Arduino pins used for this stepper motor driverIs there a way to measure three discrete resistances simultaneously?Storing the charge from a MOSFET Bridge RectifierMeasuring temperature with ±0.01°C accuracyH-Bridge motor driver not working properlyCircuit for slow windturbine 3-PhaseDC Variable power supply
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Will My Circuit Work As intended?
easiest way to detect a switch change using an arduinoCan someone review my first Arduino schematic please?Supply voltage for MOSFET driver in high-voltage (110v) PWM regulatorUsing transistors to minimize the number of Arduino pins used for this stepper motor driverIs there a way to measure three discrete resistances simultaneously?Storing the charge from a MOSFET Bridge RectifierMeasuring temperature with ±0.01°C accuracyH-Bridge motor driver not working properlyCircuit for slow windturbine 3-PhaseDC Variable power supply
.everyoneloves__top-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__mid-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__bot-mid-leaderboard:empty margin-bottom:0;
$begingroup$
I am currently attending High School, so I don't expect too much here. I simply want to know all the recommendations for this circuit (Capacitor values, etc).
But I mainly want to know if this circuit will take 120V AC and charge a battery in parallel with the load which will be a future bare-bone Arduino circuit.
NOTE: Bridge Rectifier Will Be A NTE5326.
Circuit Image:
Data Sheets:
- Mcp73831
- LM2576
- NTE5326 Bride Rectifier
arduino ac integrated-circuit dc bridge-rectifier
edited 7 hours ago
laptop2d
30.6k123894
asked 9 hours ago
Nathan JohnsonNathan Johnson
244
$endgroup$
|
show 5 more comments
$begingroup$
I am currently attending High School, so I don't expect too much here. I simply want to know all the recommendations for this circuit (Capacitor values, etc).
But I mainly want to know if this circuit will take 120V AC and charge a battery in parallel with the load which will be a future bare-bone Arduino circuit.
NOTE: Bridge Rectifier Will Be A NTE5326.
Circuit Image:
Data Sheets:
- Mcp73831
- LM2576
- NTE5326 Bride Rectifier
arduino ac integrated-circuit dc bridge-rectifier
edited 7 hours ago
laptop2d
30.6k123894
asked 9 hours ago
Nathan JohnsonNathan Johnson
244
$endgroup$
10
$begingroup$
Don’t. Just don’t. Playing with mains is not to be attempted unless you have at least some idea of what you are doing. Your circuit shows you don’t.
$endgroup$
– Edgar Brown
9 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
When I was in high school I already knew not to mess with AC mains voltage and to always use a transformer. That was before the Internet existed, I got my info from magazines. Now with the Internet there are plenty examples to be found where you can learn from.
$endgroup$
– Bimpelrekkie
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
It is easier, cheaper, and far far safer to get yourself a wall-wart with the voltage and current capability that you need. There's a lot of USB chargers floating around the world these days -- if you don't need more than 1.5A, you should be able to find something. If you don't need more than 0.5A, then any old USB charger will do.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
When I was in high school all we did was wire up 2 way switches and make iron wire transformer. My buddy asked the teacher. Can I touch this? "Sure" Ouch ! , I thought U said... " you didn't ask Should I touch this?"
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
It's @NathanJohnson's first time, did anybody else make perfect circuits on their first cut? Be nice, spare some downvotes, save them for the really bad questions
$endgroup$
– laptop2d
8 hours ago
|
show 5 more comments
$begingroup$
I am currently attending High School, so I don't expect too much here. I simply want to know all the recommendations for this circuit (Capacitor values, etc).
But I mainly want to know if this circuit will take 120V AC and charge a battery in parallel with the load which will be a future bare-bone Arduino circuit.
NOTE: Bridge Rectifier Will Be A NTE5326.
Circuit Image:
Data Sheets:
- Mcp73831
- LM2576
- NTE5326 Bride Rectifier
arduino ac integrated-circuit dc bridge-rectifier
edited 7 hours ago
laptop2d
30.6k123894
asked 9 hours ago
Nathan JohnsonNathan Johnson
244
$endgroup$
I am currently attending High School, so I don't expect too much here. I simply want to know all the recommendations for this circuit (Capacitor values, etc).
But I mainly want to know if this circuit will take 120V AC and charge a battery in parallel with the load which will be a future bare-bone Arduino circuit.
NOTE: Bridge Rectifier Will Be A NTE5326.
Circuit Image:
Data Sheets:
- Mcp73831
- LM2576
- NTE5326 Bride Rectifier
arduino ac integrated-circuit dc bridge-rectifier
arduino ac integrated-circuit dc bridge-rectifier
edited 7 hours ago
laptop2d
30.6k123894
asked 9 hours ago
Nathan JohnsonNathan Johnson
244
edited 7 hours ago
laptop2d
30.6k123894
asked 9 hours ago
Nathan JohnsonNathan Johnson
244
edited 7 hours ago
laptop2d
30.6k123894
edited 7 hours ago
laptop2d
30.6k123894
edited 7 hours ago
laptop2d
30.6k123894
30.6k123894
asked 9 hours ago
Nathan JohnsonNathan Johnson
244
asked 9 hours ago
Nathan JohnsonNathan Johnson
244
asked 9 hours ago
Nathan JohnsonNathan Johnson
244
244
10
$begingroup$
Don’t. Just don’t. Playing with mains is not to be attempted unless you have at least some idea of what you are doing. Your circuit shows you don’t.
$endgroup$
– Edgar Brown
9 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
When I was in high school I already knew not to mess with AC mains voltage and to always use a transformer. That was before the Internet existed, I got my info from magazines. Now with the Internet there are plenty examples to be found where you can learn from.
$endgroup$
– Bimpelrekkie
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
It is easier, cheaper, and far far safer to get yourself a wall-wart with the voltage and current capability that you need. There's a lot of USB chargers floating around the world these days -- if you don't need more than 1.5A, you should be able to find something. If you don't need more than 0.5A, then any old USB charger will do.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
When I was in high school all we did was wire up 2 way switches and make iron wire transformer. My buddy asked the teacher. Can I touch this? "Sure" Ouch ! , I thought U said... " you didn't ask Should I touch this?"
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
It's @NathanJohnson's first time, did anybody else make perfect circuits on their first cut? Be nice, spare some downvotes, save them for the really bad questions
$endgroup$
– laptop2d
8 hours ago
|
show 5 more comments
10
$begingroup$
Don’t. Just don’t. Playing with mains is not to be attempted unless you have at least some idea of what you are doing. Your circuit shows you don’t.
$endgroup$
– Edgar Brown
9 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
When I was in high school I already knew not to mess with AC mains voltage and to always use a transformer. That was before the Internet existed, I got my info from magazines. Now with the Internet there are plenty examples to be found where you can learn from.
$endgroup$
– Bimpelrekkie
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
It is easier, cheaper, and far far safer to get yourself a wall-wart with the voltage and current capability that you need. There's a lot of USB chargers floating around the world these days -- if you don't need more than 1.5A, you should be able to find something. If you don't need more than 0.5A, then any old USB charger will do.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
When I was in high school all we did was wire up 2 way switches and make iron wire transformer. My buddy asked the teacher. Can I touch this? "Sure" Ouch ! , I thought U said... " you didn't ask Should I touch this?"
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
It's @NathanJohnson's first time, did anybody else make perfect circuits on their first cut? Be nice, spare some downvotes, save them for the really bad questions
$endgroup$
– laptop2d
8 hours ago
10
10
$begingroup$
Don’t. Just don’t. Playing with mains is not to be attempted unless you have at least some idea of what you are doing. Your circuit shows you don’t.
$endgroup$
– Edgar Brown
9 hours ago
$begingroup$
Don’t. Just don’t. Playing with mains is not to be attempted unless you have at least some idea of what you are doing. Your circuit shows you don’t.
$endgroup$
– Edgar Brown
9 hours ago
1
1
$begingroup$
When I was in high school I already knew not to mess with AC mains voltage and to always use a transformer. That was before the Internet existed, I got my info from magazines. Now with the Internet there are plenty examples to be found where you can learn from.
$endgroup$
– Bimpelrekkie
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
When I was in high school I already knew not to mess with AC mains voltage and to always use a transformer. That was before the Internet existed, I got my info from magazines. Now with the Internet there are plenty examples to be found where you can learn from.
$endgroup$
– Bimpelrekkie
8 hours ago
1
1
$begingroup$
It is easier, cheaper, and far far safer to get yourself a wall-wart with the voltage and current capability that you need. There's a lot of USB chargers floating around the world these days -- if you don't need more than 1.5A, you should be able to find something. If you don't need more than 0.5A, then any old USB charger will do.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
It is easier, cheaper, and far far safer to get yourself a wall-wart with the voltage and current capability that you need. There's a lot of USB chargers floating around the world these days -- if you don't need more than 1.5A, you should be able to find something. If you don't need more than 0.5A, then any old USB charger will do.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
When I was in high school all we did was wire up 2 way switches and make iron wire transformer. My buddy asked the teacher. Can I touch this? "Sure" Ouch ! , I thought U said... " you didn't ask Should I touch this?"
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
When I was in high school all we did was wire up 2 way switches and make iron wire transformer. My buddy asked the teacher. Can I touch this? "Sure" Ouch ! , I thought U said... " you didn't ask Should I touch this?"
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
1
1
$begingroup$
It's @NathanJohnson's first time, did anybody else make perfect circuits on their first cut? Be nice, spare some downvotes, save them for the really bad questions
$endgroup$
– laptop2d
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
It's @NathanJohnson's first time, did anybody else make perfect circuits on their first cut? Be nice, spare some downvotes, save them for the really bad questions
$endgroup$
– laptop2d
8 hours ago
|
show 5 more comments
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
No, the maximum voltage of the LM2576 is 45V. There are also a few other problems with the schematic above:
- You need to have an isolation transformer on AC mains for safety purposes
- AC mains can have spikes over 400V, from lightning or other devices. You need protection from these spikes.
- AC mains should be fused, so in the event of a fault, it becomes disconnected.
EDIT
A circuit like this with a transformer would be better, instead of a 7805, put your DC to DC there. Use a step down transformer to get the voltage to the recommended voltage of the DC to DC converter.
Source: https://www.elprocus.com/steps-to-convert-the-230v-ac-to-5v-dc/
answered 8 hours ago
laptop2dlaptop2d
30.6k123894
$endgroup$
1
$begingroup$
Could you point me in the right direction for a proper AC -> DC Converter for what I would need then?
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
@NathanJohnson Product recommendations are not allowed on our website. That's something you'll have to figure out.
$endgroup$
– KingDuken
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
There are 'offline switchers' that are rated for stepping rectified line voltages down to the voltage you need, but the issue with them is that the output is still not isolated, and puts lethal voltages onto the devices you're powering. Use an off-the-shelf supply (cost-wise, it makes no sense not to, and they'll have agency approved insulation systems in them) and concentrate on the design of the low voltage system.
$endgroup$
– Phil G
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
I would not suggest a 20VDC to 5V 7805. It will dump 3x as much heat into the regulator. and 30V would be 5x as much load into the regulator. THe DC-DC buck regulator will be more efficient but should be bought not made.
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
7 hours ago
2
$begingroup$
A DC-DC design requires advanced knowledge on LC characteristics and layout so not for newbies unless exact duplicate of an OEM design
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
7 hours ago
|
show 3 more comments
$begingroup$
Nice try but this is DC-DC converter only and 40 or 60V max options.
Keep mind AC line can have 120Vrms +/-10% or +/-170 Vpk sine
This means even if you had a huge 200V cap it has to be charged up in zero time at some random voltage. All caps have internal effective series resistance or ESR so using Ohm's Law with say 1 Ohm ESR you can expect a 170A firecracker with toxic fumes.
The equation to surge charge a capacitor with current is same for batteries. Ic = C ΔV/Δt, except even small 10Wh Li-Ion cells are ~ 10,000 Farads but 0 to 40V on 100uF can still be 40A if the ESR is 1 Ohm. These values are given in datasheets.
answered 9 hours ago
Sunnyskyguy EE75Sunnyskyguy EE75
74.8k229106
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
I thought a Bridge Rectifier doesn't output 120 DC I thought it steps it down to under the 60 maximum allowed volts
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
3
$begingroup$
Nope. 120VAC means 120V RMS (Google "RMS"). That works out to the roughly 170V peak-peak that this answer quotes, and that's what you'll get out of the bridge rectifier. Moreover, anything that you're going to touch should be isolated from the mains voltage. You could get both isolation and step-down with a transformer, but IMHO you need to get some safe, low-voltage power to learn on first, and hazard the high voltage stuff after you have a better understanding of electricity.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
That would require a suitable 60Hz step-down 12V transformer with VA rating 30% higher than Watts needed.. Much better to buy AC-DC converters online
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
Thanks for the feedback I will definitely have to research more before I try again
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
Safer bet is something like this amazon.com/PHEVOS-Universal-Switching-Raspberry-Computer/dp/… but no cordset or amazon.com/ALITOVE-Converter-5-5x2-1mm-100V-240V-Security/dp/…
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
add a comment |
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2 Answers
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active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
No, the maximum voltage of the LM2576 is 45V. There are also a few other problems with the schematic above:
- You need to have an isolation transformer on AC mains for safety purposes
- AC mains can have spikes over 400V, from lightning or other devices. You need protection from these spikes.
- AC mains should be fused, so in the event of a fault, it becomes disconnected.
EDIT
A circuit like this with a transformer would be better, instead of a 7805, put your DC to DC there. Use a step down transformer to get the voltage to the recommended voltage of the DC to DC converter.
Source: https://www.elprocus.com/steps-to-convert-the-230v-ac-to-5v-dc/
answered 8 hours ago
laptop2dlaptop2d
30.6k123894
$endgroup$
1
$begingroup$
Could you point me in the right direction for a proper AC -> DC Converter for what I would need then?
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
@NathanJohnson Product recommendations are not allowed on our website. That's something you'll have to figure out.
$endgroup$
– KingDuken
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
There are 'offline switchers' that are rated for stepping rectified line voltages down to the voltage you need, but the issue with them is that the output is still not isolated, and puts lethal voltages onto the devices you're powering. Use an off-the-shelf supply (cost-wise, it makes no sense not to, and they'll have agency approved insulation systems in them) and concentrate on the design of the low voltage system.
$endgroup$
– Phil G
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
I would not suggest a 20VDC to 5V 7805. It will dump 3x as much heat into the regulator. and 30V would be 5x as much load into the regulator. THe DC-DC buck regulator will be more efficient but should be bought not made.
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
7 hours ago
2
$begingroup$
A DC-DC design requires advanced knowledge on LC characteristics and layout so not for newbies unless exact duplicate of an OEM design
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
7 hours ago
|
show 3 more comments
$begingroup$
No, the maximum voltage of the LM2576 is 45V. There are also a few other problems with the schematic above:
- You need to have an isolation transformer on AC mains for safety purposes
- AC mains can have spikes over 400V, from lightning or other devices. You need protection from these spikes.
- AC mains should be fused, so in the event of a fault, it becomes disconnected.
EDIT
A circuit like this with a transformer would be better, instead of a 7805, put your DC to DC there. Use a step down transformer to get the voltage to the recommended voltage of the DC to DC converter.
Source: https://www.elprocus.com/steps-to-convert-the-230v-ac-to-5v-dc/
answered 8 hours ago
laptop2dlaptop2d
30.6k123894
$endgroup$
1
$begingroup$
Could you point me in the right direction for a proper AC -> DC Converter for what I would need then?
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
@NathanJohnson Product recommendations are not allowed on our website. That's something you'll have to figure out.
$endgroup$
– KingDuken
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
There are 'offline switchers' that are rated for stepping rectified line voltages down to the voltage you need, but the issue with them is that the output is still not isolated, and puts lethal voltages onto the devices you're powering. Use an off-the-shelf supply (cost-wise, it makes no sense not to, and they'll have agency approved insulation systems in them) and concentrate on the design of the low voltage system.
$endgroup$
– Phil G
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
I would not suggest a 20VDC to 5V 7805. It will dump 3x as much heat into the regulator. and 30V would be 5x as much load into the regulator. THe DC-DC buck regulator will be more efficient but should be bought not made.
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
7 hours ago
2
$begingroup$
A DC-DC design requires advanced knowledge on LC characteristics and layout so not for newbies unless exact duplicate of an OEM design
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
7 hours ago
|
show 3 more comments
$begingroup$
No, the maximum voltage of the LM2576 is 45V. There are also a few other problems with the schematic above:
- You need to have an isolation transformer on AC mains for safety purposes
- AC mains can have spikes over 400V, from lightning or other devices. You need protection from these spikes.
- AC mains should be fused, so in the event of a fault, it becomes disconnected.
EDIT
A circuit like this with a transformer would be better, instead of a 7805, put your DC to DC there. Use a step down transformer to get the voltage to the recommended voltage of the DC to DC converter.
Source: https://www.elprocus.com/steps-to-convert-the-230v-ac-to-5v-dc/
answered 8 hours ago
laptop2dlaptop2d
30.6k123894
$endgroup$
No, the maximum voltage of the LM2576 is 45V. There are also a few other problems with the schematic above:
- You need to have an isolation transformer on AC mains for safety purposes
- AC mains can have spikes over 400V, from lightning or other devices. You need protection from these spikes.
- AC mains should be fused, so in the event of a fault, it becomes disconnected.
EDIT
A circuit like this with a transformer would be better, instead of a 7805, put your DC to DC there. Use a step down transformer to get the voltage to the recommended voltage of the DC to DC converter.
Source: https://www.elprocus.com/steps-to-convert-the-230v-ac-to-5v-dc/
answered 8 hours ago
laptop2dlaptop2d
30.6k123894
edited 8 hours ago
answered 8 hours ago
laptop2dlaptop2d
30.6k123894
answered 8 hours ago
laptop2dlaptop2d
30.6k123894
answered 8 hours ago
laptop2dlaptop2d
30.6k123894
30.6k123894
1
$begingroup$
Could you point me in the right direction for a proper AC -> DC Converter for what I would need then?
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
@NathanJohnson Product recommendations are not allowed on our website. That's something you'll have to figure out.
$endgroup$
– KingDuken
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
There are 'offline switchers' that are rated for stepping rectified line voltages down to the voltage you need, but the issue with them is that the output is still not isolated, and puts lethal voltages onto the devices you're powering. Use an off-the-shelf supply (cost-wise, it makes no sense not to, and they'll have agency approved insulation systems in them) and concentrate on the design of the low voltage system.
$endgroup$
– Phil G
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
I would not suggest a 20VDC to 5V 7805. It will dump 3x as much heat into the regulator. and 30V would be 5x as much load into the regulator. THe DC-DC buck regulator will be more efficient but should be bought not made.
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
7 hours ago
2
$begingroup$
A DC-DC design requires advanced knowledge on LC characteristics and layout so not for newbies unless exact duplicate of an OEM design
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
7 hours ago
|
show 3 more comments
1
$begingroup$
Could you point me in the right direction for a proper AC -> DC Converter for what I would need then?
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
@NathanJohnson Product recommendations are not allowed on our website. That's something you'll have to figure out.
$endgroup$
– KingDuken
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
There are 'offline switchers' that are rated for stepping rectified line voltages down to the voltage you need, but the issue with them is that the output is still not isolated, and puts lethal voltages onto the devices you're powering. Use an off-the-shelf supply (cost-wise, it makes no sense not to, and they'll have agency approved insulation systems in them) and concentrate on the design of the low voltage system.
$endgroup$
– Phil G
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
I would not suggest a 20VDC to 5V 7805. It will dump 3x as much heat into the regulator. and 30V would be 5x as much load into the regulator. THe DC-DC buck regulator will be more efficient but should be bought not made.
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
7 hours ago
2
$begingroup$
A DC-DC design requires advanced knowledge on LC characteristics and layout so not for newbies unless exact duplicate of an OEM design
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
7 hours ago
1
1
$begingroup$
Could you point me in the right direction for a proper AC -> DC Converter for what I would need then?
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
Could you point me in the right direction for a proper AC -> DC Converter for what I would need then?
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
1
1
$begingroup$
@NathanJohnson Product recommendations are not allowed on our website. That's something you'll have to figure out.
$endgroup$
– KingDuken
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
@NathanJohnson Product recommendations are not allowed on our website. That's something you'll have to figure out.
$endgroup$
– KingDuken
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
There are 'offline switchers' that are rated for stepping rectified line voltages down to the voltage you need, but the issue with them is that the output is still not isolated, and puts lethal voltages onto the devices you're powering. Use an off-the-shelf supply (cost-wise, it makes no sense not to, and they'll have agency approved insulation systems in them) and concentrate on the design of the low voltage system.
$endgroup$
– Phil G
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
There are 'offline switchers' that are rated for stepping rectified line voltages down to the voltage you need, but the issue with them is that the output is still not isolated, and puts lethal voltages onto the devices you're powering. Use an off-the-shelf supply (cost-wise, it makes no sense not to, and they'll have agency approved insulation systems in them) and concentrate on the design of the low voltage system.
$endgroup$
– Phil G
8 hours ago
1
1
$begingroup$
I would not suggest a 20VDC to 5V 7805. It will dump 3x as much heat into the regulator. and 30V would be 5x as much load into the regulator. THe DC-DC buck regulator will be more efficient but should be bought not made.
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
I would not suggest a 20VDC to 5V 7805. It will dump 3x as much heat into the regulator. and 30V would be 5x as much load into the regulator. THe DC-DC buck regulator will be more efficient but should be bought not made.
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
7 hours ago
2
2
$begingroup$
A DC-DC design requires advanced knowledge on LC characteristics and layout so not for newbies unless exact duplicate of an OEM design
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
7 hours ago
$begingroup$
A DC-DC design requires advanced knowledge on LC characteristics and layout so not for newbies unless exact duplicate of an OEM design
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
7 hours ago
|
show 3 more comments
$begingroup$
Nice try but this is DC-DC converter only and 40 or 60V max options.
Keep mind AC line can have 120Vrms +/-10% or +/-170 Vpk sine
This means even if you had a huge 200V cap it has to be charged up in zero time at some random voltage. All caps have internal effective series resistance or ESR so using Ohm's Law with say 1 Ohm ESR you can expect a 170A firecracker with toxic fumes.
The equation to surge charge a capacitor with current is same for batteries. Ic = C ΔV/Δt, except even small 10Wh Li-Ion cells are ~ 10,000 Farads but 0 to 40V on 100uF can still be 40A if the ESR is 1 Ohm. These values are given in datasheets.
answered 9 hours ago
Sunnyskyguy EE75Sunnyskyguy EE75
74.8k229106
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
I thought a Bridge Rectifier doesn't output 120 DC I thought it steps it down to under the 60 maximum allowed volts
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
3
$begingroup$
Nope. 120VAC means 120V RMS (Google "RMS"). That works out to the roughly 170V peak-peak that this answer quotes, and that's what you'll get out of the bridge rectifier. Moreover, anything that you're going to touch should be isolated from the mains voltage. You could get both isolation and step-down with a transformer, but IMHO you need to get some safe, low-voltage power to learn on first, and hazard the high voltage stuff after you have a better understanding of electricity.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
That would require a suitable 60Hz step-down 12V transformer with VA rating 30% higher than Watts needed.. Much better to buy AC-DC converters online
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
Thanks for the feedback I will definitely have to research more before I try again
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
Safer bet is something like this amazon.com/PHEVOS-Universal-Switching-Raspberry-Computer/dp/… but no cordset or amazon.com/ALITOVE-Converter-5-5x2-1mm-100V-240V-Security/dp/…
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Nice try but this is DC-DC converter only and 40 or 60V max options.
Keep mind AC line can have 120Vrms +/-10% or +/-170 Vpk sine
This means even if you had a huge 200V cap it has to be charged up in zero time at some random voltage. All caps have internal effective series resistance or ESR so using Ohm's Law with say 1 Ohm ESR you can expect a 170A firecracker with toxic fumes.
The equation to surge charge a capacitor with current is same for batteries. Ic = C ΔV/Δt, except even small 10Wh Li-Ion cells are ~ 10,000 Farads but 0 to 40V on 100uF can still be 40A if the ESR is 1 Ohm. These values are given in datasheets.
answered 9 hours ago
Sunnyskyguy EE75Sunnyskyguy EE75
74.8k229106
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
I thought a Bridge Rectifier doesn't output 120 DC I thought it steps it down to under the 60 maximum allowed volts
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
3
$begingroup$
Nope. 120VAC means 120V RMS (Google "RMS"). That works out to the roughly 170V peak-peak that this answer quotes, and that's what you'll get out of the bridge rectifier. Moreover, anything that you're going to touch should be isolated from the mains voltage. You could get both isolation and step-down with a transformer, but IMHO you need to get some safe, low-voltage power to learn on first, and hazard the high voltage stuff after you have a better understanding of electricity.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
That would require a suitable 60Hz step-down 12V transformer with VA rating 30% higher than Watts needed.. Much better to buy AC-DC converters online
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
Thanks for the feedback I will definitely have to research more before I try again
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
Safer bet is something like this amazon.com/PHEVOS-Universal-Switching-Raspberry-Computer/dp/… but no cordset or amazon.com/ALITOVE-Converter-5-5x2-1mm-100V-240V-Security/dp/…
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Nice try but this is DC-DC converter only and 40 or 60V max options.
Keep mind AC line can have 120Vrms +/-10% or +/-170 Vpk sine
This means even if you had a huge 200V cap it has to be charged up in zero time at some random voltage. All caps have internal effective series resistance or ESR so using Ohm's Law with say 1 Ohm ESR you can expect a 170A firecracker with toxic fumes.
The equation to surge charge a capacitor with current is same for batteries. Ic = C ΔV/Δt, except even small 10Wh Li-Ion cells are ~ 10,000 Farads but 0 to 40V on 100uF can still be 40A if the ESR is 1 Ohm. These values are given in datasheets.
answered 9 hours ago
Sunnyskyguy EE75Sunnyskyguy EE75
74.8k229106
$endgroup$
Nice try but this is DC-DC converter only and 40 or 60V max options.
Keep mind AC line can have 120Vrms +/-10% or +/-170 Vpk sine
This means even if you had a huge 200V cap it has to be charged up in zero time at some random voltage. All caps have internal effective series resistance or ESR so using Ohm's Law with say 1 Ohm ESR you can expect a 170A firecracker with toxic fumes.
The equation to surge charge a capacitor with current is same for batteries. Ic = C ΔV/Δt, except even small 10Wh Li-Ion cells are ~ 10,000 Farads but 0 to 40V on 100uF can still be 40A if the ESR is 1 Ohm. These values are given in datasheets.
answered 9 hours ago
Sunnyskyguy EE75Sunnyskyguy EE75
74.8k229106
edited 9 hours ago
answered 9 hours ago
Sunnyskyguy EE75Sunnyskyguy EE75
74.8k229106
answered 9 hours ago
Sunnyskyguy EE75Sunnyskyguy EE75
74.8k229106
answered 9 hours ago
Sunnyskyguy EE75Sunnyskyguy EE75
74.8k229106
74.8k229106
$begingroup$
I thought a Bridge Rectifier doesn't output 120 DC I thought it steps it down to under the 60 maximum allowed volts
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
3
$begingroup$
Nope. 120VAC means 120V RMS (Google "RMS"). That works out to the roughly 170V peak-peak that this answer quotes, and that's what you'll get out of the bridge rectifier. Moreover, anything that you're going to touch should be isolated from the mains voltage. You could get both isolation and step-down with a transformer, but IMHO you need to get some safe, low-voltage power to learn on first, and hazard the high voltage stuff after you have a better understanding of electricity.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
That would require a suitable 60Hz step-down 12V transformer with VA rating 30% higher than Watts needed.. Much better to buy AC-DC converters online
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
Thanks for the feedback I will definitely have to research more before I try again
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
Safer bet is something like this amazon.com/PHEVOS-Universal-Switching-Raspberry-Computer/dp/… but no cordset or amazon.com/ALITOVE-Converter-5-5x2-1mm-100V-240V-Security/dp/…
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
I thought a Bridge Rectifier doesn't output 120 DC I thought it steps it down to under the 60 maximum allowed volts
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
3
$begingroup$
Nope. 120VAC means 120V RMS (Google "RMS"). That works out to the roughly 170V peak-peak that this answer quotes, and that's what you'll get out of the bridge rectifier. Moreover, anything that you're going to touch should be isolated from the mains voltage. You could get both isolation and step-down with a transformer, but IMHO you need to get some safe, low-voltage power to learn on first, and hazard the high voltage stuff after you have a better understanding of electricity.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
That would require a suitable 60Hz step-down 12V transformer with VA rating 30% higher than Watts needed.. Much better to buy AC-DC converters online
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
Thanks for the feedback I will definitely have to research more before I try again
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
Safer bet is something like this amazon.com/PHEVOS-Universal-Switching-Raspberry-Computer/dp/… but no cordset or amazon.com/ALITOVE-Converter-5-5x2-1mm-100V-240V-Security/dp/…
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
I thought a Bridge Rectifier doesn't output 120 DC I thought it steps it down to under the 60 maximum allowed volts
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
I thought a Bridge Rectifier doesn't output 120 DC I thought it steps it down to under the 60 maximum allowed volts
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
3
3
$begingroup$
Nope. 120VAC means 120V RMS (Google "RMS"). That works out to the roughly 170V peak-peak that this answer quotes, and that's what you'll get out of the bridge rectifier. Moreover, anything that you're going to touch should be isolated from the mains voltage. You could get both isolation and step-down with a transformer, but IMHO you need to get some safe, low-voltage power to learn on first, and hazard the high voltage stuff after you have a better understanding of electricity.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
Nope. 120VAC means 120V RMS (Google "RMS"). That works out to the roughly 170V peak-peak that this answer quotes, and that's what you'll get out of the bridge rectifier. Moreover, anything that you're going to touch should be isolated from the mains voltage. You could get both isolation and step-down with a transformer, but IMHO you need to get some safe, low-voltage power to learn on first, and hazard the high voltage stuff after you have a better understanding of electricity.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
That would require a suitable 60Hz step-down 12V transformer with VA rating 30% higher than Watts needed.. Much better to buy AC-DC converters online
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
That would require a suitable 60Hz step-down 12V transformer with VA rating 30% higher than Watts needed.. Much better to buy AC-DC converters online
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
Thanks for the feedback I will definitely have to research more before I try again
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
Thanks for the feedback I will definitely have to research more before I try again
$endgroup$
– Nathan Johnson
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
Safer bet is something like this amazon.com/PHEVOS-Universal-Switching-Raspberry-Computer/dp/… but no cordset or amazon.com/ALITOVE-Converter-5-5x2-1mm-100V-240V-Security/dp/…
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
Safer bet is something like this amazon.com/PHEVOS-Universal-Switching-Raspberry-Computer/dp/… but no cordset or amazon.com/ALITOVE-Converter-5-5x2-1mm-100V-240V-Security/dp/…
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
add a comment |
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10
$begingroup$
Don’t. Just don’t. Playing with mains is not to be attempted unless you have at least some idea of what you are doing. Your circuit shows you don’t.
$endgroup$
– Edgar Brown
9 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
When I was in high school I already knew not to mess with AC mains voltage and to always use a transformer. That was before the Internet existed, I got my info from magazines. Now with the Internet there are plenty examples to be found where you can learn from.
$endgroup$
– Bimpelrekkie
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
It is easier, cheaper, and far far safer to get yourself a wall-wart with the voltage and current capability that you need. There's a lot of USB chargers floating around the world these days -- if you don't need more than 1.5A, you should be able to find something. If you don't need more than 0.5A, then any old USB charger will do.
$endgroup$
– TimWescott
8 hours ago
$begingroup$
When I was in high school all we did was wire up 2 way switches and make iron wire transformer. My buddy asked the teacher. Can I touch this? "Sure" Ouch ! , I thought U said... " you didn't ask Should I touch this?"
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
8 hours ago
1
$begingroup$
It's @NathanJohnson's first time, did anybody else make perfect circuits on their first cut? Be nice, spare some downvotes, save them for the really bad questions
$endgroup$
– laptop2d
8 hours ago