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Should I replace a carport post as it was originally built or with an upgraded column?


How do I replace a wooden fence post that was set in concrete?Replacing a spanned “beam” with a cantilevered beamhow do i replace a fence post that was also used as a deck footing?How to attach a bolt down post support to a fast set concrete post built withCarport post helpreplace load bearing post with steel columnCarport post base connector - screws or bolts?Replace steel suppost post with woodHow deep should a fence post be with respect to the bottom of the concrete base?






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2















I’ve got a 60s era carport with a rotted post. It’s a low slope cantilevered roof about 20 feet long. It has two posts on each corner at the front, and the back is supported by the house.



The rotted post is a 2x4 sandwiched by 2x6s like an I beam.



enter image description hereenter image description here



enter image description here
I could replace it as built, Doug fir 2x. The roof is big enough that I’m a little concerned about a 2x4 holding up all that load.



The pier this rests on is perfectly sized for a 4x6. What holds me back from putting in a 4x6 is I don’t know about cutting a birds mouth into an existing beam, and the pier is not very level.



What do you all think? As built or how to sub in a bigger column?










share|improve this question









New contributor



monknomo is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





















  • What's to be concerned about? The 2x4 held for over 50 years according to your post -- I assume it would continue just fine if you simply replace it as is.

    – Steve-o169
    8 hours ago











  • I’ve had the same thought. It’s just an awful lot of roof propped up by a 2x4...

    – monknomo
    8 hours ago

















2















I’ve got a 60s era carport with a rotted post. It’s a low slope cantilevered roof about 20 feet long. It has two posts on each corner at the front, and the back is supported by the house.



The rotted post is a 2x4 sandwiched by 2x6s like an I beam.



enter image description hereenter image description here



enter image description here
I could replace it as built, Doug fir 2x. The roof is big enough that I’m a little concerned about a 2x4 holding up all that load.



The pier this rests on is perfectly sized for a 4x6. What holds me back from putting in a 4x6 is I don’t know about cutting a birds mouth into an existing beam, and the pier is not very level.



What do you all think? As built or how to sub in a bigger column?










share|improve this question









New contributor



monknomo is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





















  • What's to be concerned about? The 2x4 held for over 50 years according to your post -- I assume it would continue just fine if you simply replace it as is.

    – Steve-o169
    8 hours ago











  • I’ve had the same thought. It’s just an awful lot of roof propped up by a 2x4...

    – monknomo
    8 hours ago













2












2








2








I’ve got a 60s era carport with a rotted post. It’s a low slope cantilevered roof about 20 feet long. It has two posts on each corner at the front, and the back is supported by the house.



The rotted post is a 2x4 sandwiched by 2x6s like an I beam.



enter image description hereenter image description here



enter image description here
I could replace it as built, Doug fir 2x. The roof is big enough that I’m a little concerned about a 2x4 holding up all that load.



The pier this rests on is perfectly sized for a 4x6. What holds me back from putting in a 4x6 is I don’t know about cutting a birds mouth into an existing beam, and the pier is not very level.



What do you all think? As built or how to sub in a bigger column?










share|improve this question









New contributor



monknomo is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











I’ve got a 60s era carport with a rotted post. It’s a low slope cantilevered roof about 20 feet long. It has two posts on each corner at the front, and the back is supported by the house.



The rotted post is a 2x4 sandwiched by 2x6s like an I beam.



enter image description hereenter image description here



enter image description here
I could replace it as built, Doug fir 2x. The roof is big enough that I’m a little concerned about a 2x4 holding up all that load.



The pier this rests on is perfectly sized for a 4x6. What holds me back from putting in a 4x6 is I don’t know about cutting a birds mouth into an existing beam, and the pier is not very level.



What do you all think? As built or how to sub in a bigger column?







structural replacement post column carport






share|improve this question









New contributor



monknomo is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.










share|improve this question









New contributor



monknomo is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.








share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 7 hours ago









Daniel Griscom

5,1089 gold badges24 silver badges38 bronze badges




5,1089 gold badges24 silver badges38 bronze badges






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monknomo is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.








asked 8 hours ago









monknomomonknomo

1112 bronze badges




1112 bronze badges




New contributor



monknomo is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




New contributor




monknomo is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

















  • What's to be concerned about? The 2x4 held for over 50 years according to your post -- I assume it would continue just fine if you simply replace it as is.

    – Steve-o169
    8 hours ago











  • I’ve had the same thought. It’s just an awful lot of roof propped up by a 2x4...

    – monknomo
    8 hours ago

















  • What's to be concerned about? The 2x4 held for over 50 years according to your post -- I assume it would continue just fine if you simply replace it as is.

    – Steve-o169
    8 hours ago











  • I’ve had the same thought. It’s just an awful lot of roof propped up by a 2x4...

    – monknomo
    8 hours ago
















What's to be concerned about? The 2x4 held for over 50 years according to your post -- I assume it would continue just fine if you simply replace it as is.

– Steve-o169
8 hours ago





What's to be concerned about? The 2x4 held for over 50 years according to your post -- I assume it would continue just fine if you simply replace it as is.

– Steve-o169
8 hours ago













I’ve had the same thought. It’s just an awful lot of roof propped up by a 2x4...

– monknomo
8 hours ago





I’ve had the same thought. It’s just an awful lot of roof propped up by a 2x4...

– monknomo
8 hours ago










1 Answer
1






active

oldest

votes


















5
















The post looks reasonably adequate as it was originally built even by modern standards. If it wasn't you'd have seen disaster long ago, when it first started to decay.



To maintain the style detail I'd rebuild to match, using pressure-treated lumber. By doing so you eliminate the need to cut that notch and you end up with a more robust post. A single post member may have weaknesses that are addressed by using multiple boards.



I'd fit everything and screw it all together at 24" intervals with pairs of 3" corrosion-resistant deck screws from each side. After it dries out for a few weeks, use a high-quality wood filler to flatten out the screw heads, then prime and paint.






share|improve this answer



























  • I agree with everything but the deck screws. I think stainless steel would be better. I have used those deck screws on pt and had really bad results.

    – JACK
    7 hours ago












Your Answer








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1 Answer
1






active

oldest

votes








1 Answer
1






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes









5
















The post looks reasonably adequate as it was originally built even by modern standards. If it wasn't you'd have seen disaster long ago, when it first started to decay.



To maintain the style detail I'd rebuild to match, using pressure-treated lumber. By doing so you eliminate the need to cut that notch and you end up with a more robust post. A single post member may have weaknesses that are addressed by using multiple boards.



I'd fit everything and screw it all together at 24" intervals with pairs of 3" corrosion-resistant deck screws from each side. After it dries out for a few weeks, use a high-quality wood filler to flatten out the screw heads, then prime and paint.






share|improve this answer



























  • I agree with everything but the deck screws. I think stainless steel would be better. I have used those deck screws on pt and had really bad results.

    – JACK
    7 hours ago















5
















The post looks reasonably adequate as it was originally built even by modern standards. If it wasn't you'd have seen disaster long ago, when it first started to decay.



To maintain the style detail I'd rebuild to match, using pressure-treated lumber. By doing so you eliminate the need to cut that notch and you end up with a more robust post. A single post member may have weaknesses that are addressed by using multiple boards.



I'd fit everything and screw it all together at 24" intervals with pairs of 3" corrosion-resistant deck screws from each side. After it dries out for a few weeks, use a high-quality wood filler to flatten out the screw heads, then prime and paint.






share|improve this answer



























  • I agree with everything but the deck screws. I think stainless steel would be better. I have used those deck screws on pt and had really bad results.

    – JACK
    7 hours ago













5














5










5









The post looks reasonably adequate as it was originally built even by modern standards. If it wasn't you'd have seen disaster long ago, when it first started to decay.



To maintain the style detail I'd rebuild to match, using pressure-treated lumber. By doing so you eliminate the need to cut that notch and you end up with a more robust post. A single post member may have weaknesses that are addressed by using multiple boards.



I'd fit everything and screw it all together at 24" intervals with pairs of 3" corrosion-resistant deck screws from each side. After it dries out for a few weeks, use a high-quality wood filler to flatten out the screw heads, then prime and paint.






share|improve this answer















The post looks reasonably adequate as it was originally built even by modern standards. If it wasn't you'd have seen disaster long ago, when it first started to decay.



To maintain the style detail I'd rebuild to match, using pressure-treated lumber. By doing so you eliminate the need to cut that notch and you end up with a more robust post. A single post member may have weaknesses that are addressed by using multiple boards.



I'd fit everything and screw it all together at 24" intervals with pairs of 3" corrosion-resistant deck screws from each side. After it dries out for a few weeks, use a high-quality wood filler to flatten out the screw heads, then prime and paint.







share|improve this answer














share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer








edited 7 hours ago

























answered 8 hours ago









isherwoodisherwood

58.6k5 gold badges70 silver badges153 bronze badges




58.6k5 gold badges70 silver badges153 bronze badges















  • I agree with everything but the deck screws. I think stainless steel would be better. I have used those deck screws on pt and had really bad results.

    – JACK
    7 hours ago

















  • I agree with everything but the deck screws. I think stainless steel would be better. I have used those deck screws on pt and had really bad results.

    – JACK
    7 hours ago
















I agree with everything but the deck screws. I think stainless steel would be better. I have used those deck screws on pt and had really bad results.

– JACK
7 hours ago





I agree with everything but the deck screws. I think stainless steel would be better. I have used those deck screws on pt and had really bad results.

– JACK
7 hours ago











monknomo is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.









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