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Should I replace a carport post as it was originally built or with an upgraded column?
How do I replace a wooden fence post that was set in concrete?Replacing a spanned “beam” with a cantilevered beamhow do i replace a fence post that was also used as a deck footing?How to attach a bolt down post support to a fast set concrete post built withCarport post helpreplace load bearing post with steel columnCarport post base connector - screws or bolts?Replace steel suppost post with woodHow deep should a fence post be with respect to the bottom of the concrete base?
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I’ve got a 60s era carport with a rotted post. It’s a low slope cantilevered roof about 20 feet long. It has two posts on each corner at the front, and the back is supported by the house.
The rotted post is a 2x4 sandwiched by 2x6s like an I beam.
I could replace it as built, Doug fir 2x. The roof is big enough that I’m a little concerned about a 2x4 holding up all that load.
The pier this rests on is perfectly sized for a 4x6. What holds me back from putting in a 4x6 is I don’t know about cutting a birds mouth into an existing beam, and the pier is not very level.
What do you all think? As built or how to sub in a bigger column?
structural replacement post column carport
New contributor
add a comment
|
I’ve got a 60s era carport with a rotted post. It’s a low slope cantilevered roof about 20 feet long. It has two posts on each corner at the front, and the back is supported by the house.
The rotted post is a 2x4 sandwiched by 2x6s like an I beam.
I could replace it as built, Doug fir 2x. The roof is big enough that I’m a little concerned about a 2x4 holding up all that load.
The pier this rests on is perfectly sized for a 4x6. What holds me back from putting in a 4x6 is I don’t know about cutting a birds mouth into an existing beam, and the pier is not very level.
What do you all think? As built or how to sub in a bigger column?
structural replacement post column carport
New contributor
What's to be concerned about? The 2x4 held for over 50 years according to your post -- I assume it would continue just fine if you simply replace it as is.
– Steve-o169
8 hours ago
I’ve had the same thought. It’s just an awful lot of roof propped up by a 2x4...
– monknomo
8 hours ago
add a comment
|
I’ve got a 60s era carport with a rotted post. It’s a low slope cantilevered roof about 20 feet long. It has two posts on each corner at the front, and the back is supported by the house.
The rotted post is a 2x4 sandwiched by 2x6s like an I beam.
I could replace it as built, Doug fir 2x. The roof is big enough that I’m a little concerned about a 2x4 holding up all that load.
The pier this rests on is perfectly sized for a 4x6. What holds me back from putting in a 4x6 is I don’t know about cutting a birds mouth into an existing beam, and the pier is not very level.
What do you all think? As built or how to sub in a bigger column?
structural replacement post column carport
New contributor
I’ve got a 60s era carport with a rotted post. It’s a low slope cantilevered roof about 20 feet long. It has two posts on each corner at the front, and the back is supported by the house.
The rotted post is a 2x4 sandwiched by 2x6s like an I beam.
I could replace it as built, Doug fir 2x. The roof is big enough that I’m a little concerned about a 2x4 holding up all that load.
The pier this rests on is perfectly sized for a 4x6. What holds me back from putting in a 4x6 is I don’t know about cutting a birds mouth into an existing beam, and the pier is not very level.
What do you all think? As built or how to sub in a bigger column?
structural replacement post column carport
structural replacement post column carport
New contributor
New contributor
edited 7 hours ago
Daniel Griscom
5,1089 gold badges24 silver badges38 bronze badges
5,1089 gold badges24 silver badges38 bronze badges
New contributor
asked 8 hours ago
monknomomonknomo
1112 bronze badges
1112 bronze badges
New contributor
New contributor
What's to be concerned about? The 2x4 held for over 50 years according to your post -- I assume it would continue just fine if you simply replace it as is.
– Steve-o169
8 hours ago
I’ve had the same thought. It’s just an awful lot of roof propped up by a 2x4...
– monknomo
8 hours ago
add a comment
|
What's to be concerned about? The 2x4 held for over 50 years according to your post -- I assume it would continue just fine if you simply replace it as is.
– Steve-o169
8 hours ago
I’ve had the same thought. It’s just an awful lot of roof propped up by a 2x4...
– monknomo
8 hours ago
What's to be concerned about? The 2x4 held for over 50 years according to your post -- I assume it would continue just fine if you simply replace it as is.
– Steve-o169
8 hours ago
What's to be concerned about? The 2x4 held for over 50 years according to your post -- I assume it would continue just fine if you simply replace it as is.
– Steve-o169
8 hours ago
I’ve had the same thought. It’s just an awful lot of roof propped up by a 2x4...
– monknomo
8 hours ago
I’ve had the same thought. It’s just an awful lot of roof propped up by a 2x4...
– monknomo
8 hours ago
add a comment
|
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
The post looks reasonably adequate as it was originally built even by modern standards. If it wasn't you'd have seen disaster long ago, when it first started to decay.
To maintain the style detail I'd rebuild to match, using pressure-treated lumber. By doing so you eliminate the need to cut that notch and you end up with a more robust post. A single post member may have weaknesses that are addressed by using multiple boards.
I'd fit everything and screw it all together at 24" intervals with pairs of 3" corrosion-resistant deck screws from each side. After it dries out for a few weeks, use a high-quality wood filler to flatten out the screw heads, then prime and paint.
I agree with everything but the deck screws. I think stainless steel would be better. I have used those deck screws on pt and had really bad results.
– JACK
7 hours ago
add a comment
|
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1 Answer
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active
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The post looks reasonably adequate as it was originally built even by modern standards. If it wasn't you'd have seen disaster long ago, when it first started to decay.
To maintain the style detail I'd rebuild to match, using pressure-treated lumber. By doing so you eliminate the need to cut that notch and you end up with a more robust post. A single post member may have weaknesses that are addressed by using multiple boards.
I'd fit everything and screw it all together at 24" intervals with pairs of 3" corrosion-resistant deck screws from each side. After it dries out for a few weeks, use a high-quality wood filler to flatten out the screw heads, then prime and paint.
I agree with everything but the deck screws. I think stainless steel would be better. I have used those deck screws on pt and had really bad results.
– JACK
7 hours ago
add a comment
|
The post looks reasonably adequate as it was originally built even by modern standards. If it wasn't you'd have seen disaster long ago, when it first started to decay.
To maintain the style detail I'd rebuild to match, using pressure-treated lumber. By doing so you eliminate the need to cut that notch and you end up with a more robust post. A single post member may have weaknesses that are addressed by using multiple boards.
I'd fit everything and screw it all together at 24" intervals with pairs of 3" corrosion-resistant deck screws from each side. After it dries out for a few weeks, use a high-quality wood filler to flatten out the screw heads, then prime and paint.
I agree with everything but the deck screws. I think stainless steel would be better. I have used those deck screws on pt and had really bad results.
– JACK
7 hours ago
add a comment
|
The post looks reasonably adequate as it was originally built even by modern standards. If it wasn't you'd have seen disaster long ago, when it first started to decay.
To maintain the style detail I'd rebuild to match, using pressure-treated lumber. By doing so you eliminate the need to cut that notch and you end up with a more robust post. A single post member may have weaknesses that are addressed by using multiple boards.
I'd fit everything and screw it all together at 24" intervals with pairs of 3" corrosion-resistant deck screws from each side. After it dries out for a few weeks, use a high-quality wood filler to flatten out the screw heads, then prime and paint.
The post looks reasonably adequate as it was originally built even by modern standards. If it wasn't you'd have seen disaster long ago, when it first started to decay.
To maintain the style detail I'd rebuild to match, using pressure-treated lumber. By doing so you eliminate the need to cut that notch and you end up with a more robust post. A single post member may have weaknesses that are addressed by using multiple boards.
I'd fit everything and screw it all together at 24" intervals with pairs of 3" corrosion-resistant deck screws from each side. After it dries out for a few weeks, use a high-quality wood filler to flatten out the screw heads, then prime and paint.
edited 7 hours ago
answered 8 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
58.6k5 gold badges70 silver badges153 bronze badges
58.6k5 gold badges70 silver badges153 bronze badges
I agree with everything but the deck screws. I think stainless steel would be better. I have used those deck screws on pt and had really bad results.
– JACK
7 hours ago
add a comment
|
I agree with everything but the deck screws. I think stainless steel would be better. I have used those deck screws on pt and had really bad results.
– JACK
7 hours ago
I agree with everything but the deck screws. I think stainless steel would be better. I have used those deck screws on pt and had really bad results.
– JACK
7 hours ago
I agree with everything but the deck screws. I think stainless steel would be better. I have used those deck screws on pt and had really bad results.
– JACK
7 hours ago
add a comment
|
monknomo is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
monknomo is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
monknomo is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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What's to be concerned about? The 2x4 held for over 50 years according to your post -- I assume it would continue just fine if you simply replace it as is.
– Steve-o169
8 hours ago
I’ve had the same thought. It’s just an awful lot of roof propped up by a 2x4...
– monknomo
8 hours ago