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What can I do to keep a threaded bolt from falling out of its slot?
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I bought a new Chinese bike, 250cc. The bike was delivered in a crate, and the handlebars had to be screwed in by the end user.
One of the bolts keeps loosening, and if I forget to tighten it routinely, it will fall out. I’m looking for effective ways to keep this from happening. The first method that comes to mind is welding it in there, but what if I want to change the handlebars later in my product's lifecycle? Also, welding might not be the most economical solution.
What are some solutions to keeping my threaded-bolt from loosening and eventually falling out?
bolts screw
New contributor
add a comment |
I bought a new Chinese bike, 250cc. The bike was delivered in a crate, and the handlebars had to be screwed in by the end user.
One of the bolts keeps loosening, and if I forget to tighten it routinely, it will fall out. I’m looking for effective ways to keep this from happening. The first method that comes to mind is welding it in there, but what if I want to change the handlebars later in my product's lifecycle? Also, welding might not be the most economical solution.
What are some solutions to keeping my threaded-bolt from loosening and eventually falling out?
bolts screw
New contributor
Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair!
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
2 days ago
1
Consider ensuring that the screw is the correct length, and isn't just bottoming out in a hole. Also make sure you're tightening it sufficiently - if the handle bar is moving, it can cause the screw to loosen. If one side is routinely loosening, there may be a reason for it.
– Arunas
22 hours ago
add a comment |
I bought a new Chinese bike, 250cc. The bike was delivered in a crate, and the handlebars had to be screwed in by the end user.
One of the bolts keeps loosening, and if I forget to tighten it routinely, it will fall out. I’m looking for effective ways to keep this from happening. The first method that comes to mind is welding it in there, but what if I want to change the handlebars later in my product's lifecycle? Also, welding might not be the most economical solution.
What are some solutions to keeping my threaded-bolt from loosening and eventually falling out?
bolts screw
New contributor
I bought a new Chinese bike, 250cc. The bike was delivered in a crate, and the handlebars had to be screwed in by the end user.
One of the bolts keeps loosening, and if I forget to tighten it routinely, it will fall out. I’m looking for effective ways to keep this from happening. The first method that comes to mind is welding it in there, but what if I want to change the handlebars later in my product's lifecycle? Also, welding might not be the most economical solution.
What are some solutions to keeping my threaded-bolt from loosening and eventually falling out?
bolts screw
bolts screw
New contributor
New contributor
edited 1 hour ago
EJoshuaS
1034 bronze badges
1034 bronze badges
New contributor
asked 2 days ago
Tiana PyreTiana Pyre
461 silver badge2 bronze badges
461 silver badge2 bronze badges
New contributor
New contributor
Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair!
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
2 days ago
1
Consider ensuring that the screw is the correct length, and isn't just bottoming out in a hole. Also make sure you're tightening it sufficiently - if the handle bar is moving, it can cause the screw to loosen. If one side is routinely loosening, there may be a reason for it.
– Arunas
22 hours ago
add a comment |
Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair!
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
2 days ago
1
Consider ensuring that the screw is the correct length, and isn't just bottoming out in a hole. Also make sure you're tightening it sufficiently - if the handle bar is moving, it can cause the screw to loosen. If one side is routinely loosening, there may be a reason for it.
– Arunas
22 hours ago
Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair!
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
2 days ago
Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair!
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
2 days ago
1
1
Consider ensuring that the screw is the correct length, and isn't just bottoming out in a hole. Also make sure you're tightening it sufficiently - if the handle bar is moving, it can cause the screw to loosen. If one side is routinely loosening, there may be a reason for it.
– Arunas
22 hours ago
Consider ensuring that the screw is the correct length, and isn't just bottoming out in a hole. Also make sure you're tightening it sufficiently - if the handle bar is moving, it can cause the screw to loosen. If one side is routinely loosening, there may be a reason for it.
– Arunas
22 hours ago
add a comment |
7 Answers
7
active
oldest
votes
The easiest, most economical method I can think of is to use Loctite Blue 242. You apply it to the thread, torque it to spec, then within 24 hours it will keep the bolt held in place without issue. If the Blue ever comes loose, you can step up to the Red, which requires heat to bust it loose. It will not come loose without a LOT of effort.
NOTE: I have no affiliation with this product.
1
Thanks for sharing, I will look over the product.
– Tiana Pyre
2 days ago
8
Loctite is great but make sure you clean the threads of your fastener and bolt hole first with solvent to remove any oils or grime that will interfere with the friction needed for a fastener to hold.
– geoO
yesterday
5
@Michael so they say. That product seems like a good idea but without independent testing it's only maybe true and maybe marketing hype. But since the question specifies the threads are easy to access the questioner might as well use best fastener practice which is to have clean surfaces. The Locktite people have a lot of good stuff but the catalog is vast, the claims bold, and it's always important to set the variables you can control.
– geoO
yesterday
3
A locknut would work too.
– J...
yesterday
2
@J... But only if the threaded hole goes completely through the material. Many handlebar mounts have blind threaded holes, where the bolt does not protrude through the far face of the material.
– David
yesterday
|
show 3 more comments
I agree about the Loctite products but a simple lock washer or lock nut might be another possible solution as well (depending on the length of the bolt available). Some handlebars are "secured" within a U shaped clamp with a bolt going through the ends of the "U" to squeeze the clamp down on the handlebar assembly and the harder you ride that bike the more those handlebars will come loose as the metal rubbing against metal slowly, or not so slowly, wears away the metal or the finish (street cruising, check it occasionally and tighten it as it gets loose ... back country motocross then you could have a catastrophic failure during your ride). A 250cc seems like you'd be having some of the off-road fun.
New contributor
3
Interestingly, lock-washers are deemed to be mostly useless, or worse. See page 9 of ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19900009424.pdf
– Arunas
22 hours ago
add a comment |
The thread locking compound and/or lock-washer are excellent suggestions assuming you're not loosing clamping force due to bolt stretch, bolt length (too short or bottoming), threads pulling or martial softness of the clamping surfaces.
I'd check all of these things out because bolt "torque" does NOT equal clamping force which is what holds the handle bar in place.
New contributor
add a comment |
There is something that bothers me: Handlebar bolts, as safety critical items, aren't supposed to become loose. Either you torqued them wrong (too loose or too tight) or there is something fundamentally wrong with it.
I would inspect the bolts / entire assembly and check if
- The thread is intact and fits the matching hole. Does the issue persist if you swap bolts?
- All the bolts look identical (Size, threading, metallic shine).
- Is the receiving thread intact? You can check that by "feeling" the torque on tightening the bolt: If it gets harder and harder the thread is good, if you can "spin" it forever with moderate torque the thread is gone.
add a comment |
If you can replace the bolt with one equipped for use with a lock wire/safety wire (e.g. one with a hole drilled through the bolt head from the side, or possibly a castellated bolt), and you can find something to tie the end of the safety wire to, this is one of the most reliable ways of keeping a bolt in place which is subjected to vibration stress. (This is the technique used by aircraft and other heavy industrial uses where a bolt failure can be catastrophic.)
New contributor
add a comment |
You could also try re-tapping the connection
https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Tap-Screw-and-Bolt-Threads/
1
This is a link only reference. You should bring the information here while providing the link as a source. Links become stale easily. Bringing the information here will live on.
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
12 hours ago
add a comment |
I have to agree with some of the other posters: Something is not right with the fastening, and/or the proper clamping pressure is not being achieved, perhaps due to under-torque.
That said, I would rank the simplest solutions from best to worst as follows:
- castellated nut with cotter pin, hitch pin, safety wire on nut or bolt head
- adhesive threadlocker "Locktite"
- double nuts
- locking nuts, either distorted threads or "Nylocks"
- lockwashers, star washers, etc.
Note that #5 really shouldn't be on the list, as once they are compressed, they are nearly worthless. Note also that #1 may be very difficult or nearly impossible to achieve for your application. Any or all of these solutions can be combined, but past #2 you are looking at very diminshing returns.
All of these assume a properly designed and torqued fastener for the application. Perhaps that should be solution #0...
Once again, I will seriously recommend Carrol Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing as a must read for anyone desiring a real understanding about how fasteners work, and how to keep them working reliably. It should be mandatory reading for any "mechanic" or mechanical engineering student. Simple and readable, this is not a math book, but an encyclopedia of fastening with knowledge gained from decades of experience with race vehicles and aircraft - a place where a loose fastener can represent loss-of-life, vehicle, and mission, as opposed to a mere maintenance headache.
It bothers me to this day that otherwise very mechanically inclined folks still believe that lubricants or grease can cause a properly torqued fastener to loosen, that lubricant causes less than measured torque, that left-hand threads resist loss of torque from parts that have right-hand rotation, that some dirt or rust upon installation is a good thing as it keeps fasteners from loosening, multiple clicks from a torque wrench is a good thing, the torque wrench I inherited from my grandfather is still accurate, that all bolts can be reused indefinitely, and that you can trust your life to a lock washer.
[sigh]
add a comment |
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7 Answers
7
active
oldest
votes
7 Answers
7
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
The easiest, most economical method I can think of is to use Loctite Blue 242. You apply it to the thread, torque it to spec, then within 24 hours it will keep the bolt held in place without issue. If the Blue ever comes loose, you can step up to the Red, which requires heat to bust it loose. It will not come loose without a LOT of effort.
NOTE: I have no affiliation with this product.
1
Thanks for sharing, I will look over the product.
– Tiana Pyre
2 days ago
8
Loctite is great but make sure you clean the threads of your fastener and bolt hole first with solvent to remove any oils or grime that will interfere with the friction needed for a fastener to hold.
– geoO
yesterday
5
@Michael so they say. That product seems like a good idea but without independent testing it's only maybe true and maybe marketing hype. But since the question specifies the threads are easy to access the questioner might as well use best fastener practice which is to have clean surfaces. The Locktite people have a lot of good stuff but the catalog is vast, the claims bold, and it's always important to set the variables you can control.
– geoO
yesterday
3
A locknut would work too.
– J...
yesterday
2
@J... But only if the threaded hole goes completely through the material. Many handlebar mounts have blind threaded holes, where the bolt does not protrude through the far face of the material.
– David
yesterday
|
show 3 more comments
The easiest, most economical method I can think of is to use Loctite Blue 242. You apply it to the thread, torque it to spec, then within 24 hours it will keep the bolt held in place without issue. If the Blue ever comes loose, you can step up to the Red, which requires heat to bust it loose. It will not come loose without a LOT of effort.
NOTE: I have no affiliation with this product.
1
Thanks for sharing, I will look over the product.
– Tiana Pyre
2 days ago
8
Loctite is great but make sure you clean the threads of your fastener and bolt hole first with solvent to remove any oils or grime that will interfere with the friction needed for a fastener to hold.
– geoO
yesterday
5
@Michael so they say. That product seems like a good idea but without independent testing it's only maybe true and maybe marketing hype. But since the question specifies the threads are easy to access the questioner might as well use best fastener practice which is to have clean surfaces. The Locktite people have a lot of good stuff but the catalog is vast, the claims bold, and it's always important to set the variables you can control.
– geoO
yesterday
3
A locknut would work too.
– J...
yesterday
2
@J... But only if the threaded hole goes completely through the material. Many handlebar mounts have blind threaded holes, where the bolt does not protrude through the far face of the material.
– David
yesterday
|
show 3 more comments
The easiest, most economical method I can think of is to use Loctite Blue 242. You apply it to the thread, torque it to spec, then within 24 hours it will keep the bolt held in place without issue. If the Blue ever comes loose, you can step up to the Red, which requires heat to bust it loose. It will not come loose without a LOT of effort.
NOTE: I have no affiliation with this product.
The easiest, most economical method I can think of is to use Loctite Blue 242. You apply it to the thread, torque it to spec, then within 24 hours it will keep the bolt held in place without issue. If the Blue ever comes loose, you can step up to the Red, which requires heat to bust it loose. It will not come loose without a LOT of effort.
NOTE: I have no affiliation with this product.
answered 2 days ago
Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
114k21 gold badges183 silver badges386 bronze badges
114k21 gold badges183 silver badges386 bronze badges
1
Thanks for sharing, I will look over the product.
– Tiana Pyre
2 days ago
8
Loctite is great but make sure you clean the threads of your fastener and bolt hole first with solvent to remove any oils or grime that will interfere with the friction needed for a fastener to hold.
– geoO
yesterday
5
@Michael so they say. That product seems like a good idea but without independent testing it's only maybe true and maybe marketing hype. But since the question specifies the threads are easy to access the questioner might as well use best fastener practice which is to have clean surfaces. The Locktite people have a lot of good stuff but the catalog is vast, the claims bold, and it's always important to set the variables you can control.
– geoO
yesterday
3
A locknut would work too.
– J...
yesterday
2
@J... But only if the threaded hole goes completely through the material. Many handlebar mounts have blind threaded holes, where the bolt does not protrude through the far face of the material.
– David
yesterday
|
show 3 more comments
1
Thanks for sharing, I will look over the product.
– Tiana Pyre
2 days ago
8
Loctite is great but make sure you clean the threads of your fastener and bolt hole first with solvent to remove any oils or grime that will interfere with the friction needed for a fastener to hold.
– geoO
yesterday
5
@Michael so they say. That product seems like a good idea but without independent testing it's only maybe true and maybe marketing hype. But since the question specifies the threads are easy to access the questioner might as well use best fastener practice which is to have clean surfaces. The Locktite people have a lot of good stuff but the catalog is vast, the claims bold, and it's always important to set the variables you can control.
– geoO
yesterday
3
A locknut would work too.
– J...
yesterday
2
@J... But only if the threaded hole goes completely through the material. Many handlebar mounts have blind threaded holes, where the bolt does not protrude through the far face of the material.
– David
yesterday
1
1
Thanks for sharing, I will look over the product.
– Tiana Pyre
2 days ago
Thanks for sharing, I will look over the product.
– Tiana Pyre
2 days ago
8
8
Loctite is great but make sure you clean the threads of your fastener and bolt hole first with solvent to remove any oils or grime that will interfere with the friction needed for a fastener to hold.
– geoO
yesterday
Loctite is great but make sure you clean the threads of your fastener and bolt hole first with solvent to remove any oils or grime that will interfere with the friction needed for a fastener to hold.
– geoO
yesterday
5
5
@Michael so they say. That product seems like a good idea but without independent testing it's only maybe true and maybe marketing hype. But since the question specifies the threads are easy to access the questioner might as well use best fastener practice which is to have clean surfaces. The Locktite people have a lot of good stuff but the catalog is vast, the claims bold, and it's always important to set the variables you can control.
– geoO
yesterday
@Michael so they say. That product seems like a good idea but without independent testing it's only maybe true and maybe marketing hype. But since the question specifies the threads are easy to access the questioner might as well use best fastener practice which is to have clean surfaces. The Locktite people have a lot of good stuff but the catalog is vast, the claims bold, and it's always important to set the variables you can control.
– geoO
yesterday
3
3
A locknut would work too.
– J...
yesterday
A locknut would work too.
– J...
yesterday
2
2
@J... But only if the threaded hole goes completely through the material. Many handlebar mounts have blind threaded holes, where the bolt does not protrude through the far face of the material.
– David
yesterday
@J... But only if the threaded hole goes completely through the material. Many handlebar mounts have blind threaded holes, where the bolt does not protrude through the far face of the material.
– David
yesterday
|
show 3 more comments
I agree about the Loctite products but a simple lock washer or lock nut might be another possible solution as well (depending on the length of the bolt available). Some handlebars are "secured" within a U shaped clamp with a bolt going through the ends of the "U" to squeeze the clamp down on the handlebar assembly and the harder you ride that bike the more those handlebars will come loose as the metal rubbing against metal slowly, or not so slowly, wears away the metal or the finish (street cruising, check it occasionally and tighten it as it gets loose ... back country motocross then you could have a catastrophic failure during your ride). A 250cc seems like you'd be having some of the off-road fun.
New contributor
3
Interestingly, lock-washers are deemed to be mostly useless, or worse. See page 9 of ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19900009424.pdf
– Arunas
22 hours ago
add a comment |
I agree about the Loctite products but a simple lock washer or lock nut might be another possible solution as well (depending on the length of the bolt available). Some handlebars are "secured" within a U shaped clamp with a bolt going through the ends of the "U" to squeeze the clamp down on the handlebar assembly and the harder you ride that bike the more those handlebars will come loose as the metal rubbing against metal slowly, or not so slowly, wears away the metal or the finish (street cruising, check it occasionally and tighten it as it gets loose ... back country motocross then you could have a catastrophic failure during your ride). A 250cc seems like you'd be having some of the off-road fun.
New contributor
3
Interestingly, lock-washers are deemed to be mostly useless, or worse. See page 9 of ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19900009424.pdf
– Arunas
22 hours ago
add a comment |
I agree about the Loctite products but a simple lock washer or lock nut might be another possible solution as well (depending on the length of the bolt available). Some handlebars are "secured" within a U shaped clamp with a bolt going through the ends of the "U" to squeeze the clamp down on the handlebar assembly and the harder you ride that bike the more those handlebars will come loose as the metal rubbing against metal slowly, or not so slowly, wears away the metal or the finish (street cruising, check it occasionally and tighten it as it gets loose ... back country motocross then you could have a catastrophic failure during your ride). A 250cc seems like you'd be having some of the off-road fun.
New contributor
I agree about the Loctite products but a simple lock washer or lock nut might be another possible solution as well (depending on the length of the bolt available). Some handlebars are "secured" within a U shaped clamp with a bolt going through the ends of the "U" to squeeze the clamp down on the handlebar assembly and the harder you ride that bike the more those handlebars will come loose as the metal rubbing against metal slowly, or not so slowly, wears away the metal or the finish (street cruising, check it occasionally and tighten it as it gets loose ... back country motocross then you could have a catastrophic failure during your ride). A 250cc seems like you'd be having some of the off-road fun.
New contributor
New contributor
answered yesterday
user51042user51042
811 bronze badge
811 bronze badge
New contributor
New contributor
3
Interestingly, lock-washers are deemed to be mostly useless, or worse. See page 9 of ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19900009424.pdf
– Arunas
22 hours ago
add a comment |
3
Interestingly, lock-washers are deemed to be mostly useless, or worse. See page 9 of ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19900009424.pdf
– Arunas
22 hours ago
3
3
Interestingly, lock-washers are deemed to be mostly useless, or worse. See page 9 of ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19900009424.pdf
– Arunas
22 hours ago
Interestingly, lock-washers are deemed to be mostly useless, or worse. See page 9 of ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19900009424.pdf
– Arunas
22 hours ago
add a comment |
The thread locking compound and/or lock-washer are excellent suggestions assuming you're not loosing clamping force due to bolt stretch, bolt length (too short or bottoming), threads pulling or martial softness of the clamping surfaces.
I'd check all of these things out because bolt "torque" does NOT equal clamping force which is what holds the handle bar in place.
New contributor
add a comment |
The thread locking compound and/or lock-washer are excellent suggestions assuming you're not loosing clamping force due to bolt stretch, bolt length (too short or bottoming), threads pulling or martial softness of the clamping surfaces.
I'd check all of these things out because bolt "torque" does NOT equal clamping force which is what holds the handle bar in place.
New contributor
add a comment |
The thread locking compound and/or lock-washer are excellent suggestions assuming you're not loosing clamping force due to bolt stretch, bolt length (too short or bottoming), threads pulling or martial softness of the clamping surfaces.
I'd check all of these things out because bolt "torque" does NOT equal clamping force which is what holds the handle bar in place.
New contributor
The thread locking compound and/or lock-washer are excellent suggestions assuming you're not loosing clamping force due to bolt stretch, bolt length (too short or bottoming), threads pulling or martial softness of the clamping surfaces.
I'd check all of these things out because bolt "torque" does NOT equal clamping force which is what holds the handle bar in place.
New contributor
New contributor
answered yesterday
BigDBigD
211 bronze badge
211 bronze badge
New contributor
New contributor
add a comment |
add a comment |
There is something that bothers me: Handlebar bolts, as safety critical items, aren't supposed to become loose. Either you torqued them wrong (too loose or too tight) or there is something fundamentally wrong with it.
I would inspect the bolts / entire assembly and check if
- The thread is intact and fits the matching hole. Does the issue persist if you swap bolts?
- All the bolts look identical (Size, threading, metallic shine).
- Is the receiving thread intact? You can check that by "feeling" the torque on tightening the bolt: If it gets harder and harder the thread is good, if you can "spin" it forever with moderate torque the thread is gone.
add a comment |
There is something that bothers me: Handlebar bolts, as safety critical items, aren't supposed to become loose. Either you torqued them wrong (too loose or too tight) or there is something fundamentally wrong with it.
I would inspect the bolts / entire assembly and check if
- The thread is intact and fits the matching hole. Does the issue persist if you swap bolts?
- All the bolts look identical (Size, threading, metallic shine).
- Is the receiving thread intact? You can check that by "feeling" the torque on tightening the bolt: If it gets harder and harder the thread is good, if you can "spin" it forever with moderate torque the thread is gone.
add a comment |
There is something that bothers me: Handlebar bolts, as safety critical items, aren't supposed to become loose. Either you torqued them wrong (too loose or too tight) or there is something fundamentally wrong with it.
I would inspect the bolts / entire assembly and check if
- The thread is intact and fits the matching hole. Does the issue persist if you swap bolts?
- All the bolts look identical (Size, threading, metallic shine).
- Is the receiving thread intact? You can check that by "feeling" the torque on tightening the bolt: If it gets harder and harder the thread is good, if you can "spin" it forever with moderate torque the thread is gone.
There is something that bothers me: Handlebar bolts, as safety critical items, aren't supposed to become loose. Either you torqued them wrong (too loose or too tight) or there is something fundamentally wrong with it.
I would inspect the bolts / entire assembly and check if
- The thread is intact and fits the matching hole. Does the issue persist if you swap bolts?
- All the bolts look identical (Size, threading, metallic shine).
- Is the receiving thread intact? You can check that by "feeling" the torque on tightening the bolt: If it gets harder and harder the thread is good, if you can "spin" it forever with moderate torque the thread is gone.
answered 5 hours ago
MartinMartin
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If you can replace the bolt with one equipped for use with a lock wire/safety wire (e.g. one with a hole drilled through the bolt head from the side, or possibly a castellated bolt), and you can find something to tie the end of the safety wire to, this is one of the most reliable ways of keeping a bolt in place which is subjected to vibration stress. (This is the technique used by aircraft and other heavy industrial uses where a bolt failure can be catastrophic.)
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If you can replace the bolt with one equipped for use with a lock wire/safety wire (e.g. one with a hole drilled through the bolt head from the side, or possibly a castellated bolt), and you can find something to tie the end of the safety wire to, this is one of the most reliable ways of keeping a bolt in place which is subjected to vibration stress. (This is the technique used by aircraft and other heavy industrial uses where a bolt failure can be catastrophic.)
New contributor
add a comment |
If you can replace the bolt with one equipped for use with a lock wire/safety wire (e.g. one with a hole drilled through the bolt head from the side, or possibly a castellated bolt), and you can find something to tie the end of the safety wire to, this is one of the most reliable ways of keeping a bolt in place which is subjected to vibration stress. (This is the technique used by aircraft and other heavy industrial uses where a bolt failure can be catastrophic.)
New contributor
If you can replace the bolt with one equipped for use with a lock wire/safety wire (e.g. one with a hole drilled through the bolt head from the side, or possibly a castellated bolt), and you can find something to tie the end of the safety wire to, this is one of the most reliable ways of keeping a bolt in place which is subjected to vibration stress. (This is the technique used by aircraft and other heavy industrial uses where a bolt failure can be catastrophic.)
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answered 6 hours ago
Darrel HoffmanDarrel Hoffman
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You could also try re-tapping the connection
https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Tap-Screw-and-Bolt-Threads/
1
This is a link only reference. You should bring the information here while providing the link as a source. Links become stale easily. Bringing the information here will live on.
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
12 hours ago
add a comment |
You could also try re-tapping the connection
https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Tap-Screw-and-Bolt-Threads/
1
This is a link only reference. You should bring the information here while providing the link as a source. Links become stale easily. Bringing the information here will live on.
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
12 hours ago
add a comment |
You could also try re-tapping the connection
https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Tap-Screw-and-Bolt-Threads/
You could also try re-tapping the connection
https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Tap-Screw-and-Bolt-Threads/
answered yesterday
NKCampbellNKCampbell
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This is a link only reference. You should bring the information here while providing the link as a source. Links become stale easily. Bringing the information here will live on.
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
12 hours ago
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1
This is a link only reference. You should bring the information here while providing the link as a source. Links become stale easily. Bringing the information here will live on.
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
12 hours ago
1
1
This is a link only reference. You should bring the information here while providing the link as a source. Links become stale easily. Bringing the information here will live on.
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
12 hours ago
This is a link only reference. You should bring the information here while providing the link as a source. Links become stale easily. Bringing the information here will live on.
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
12 hours ago
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I have to agree with some of the other posters: Something is not right with the fastening, and/or the proper clamping pressure is not being achieved, perhaps due to under-torque.
That said, I would rank the simplest solutions from best to worst as follows:
- castellated nut with cotter pin, hitch pin, safety wire on nut or bolt head
- adhesive threadlocker "Locktite"
- double nuts
- locking nuts, either distorted threads or "Nylocks"
- lockwashers, star washers, etc.
Note that #5 really shouldn't be on the list, as once they are compressed, they are nearly worthless. Note also that #1 may be very difficult or nearly impossible to achieve for your application. Any or all of these solutions can be combined, but past #2 you are looking at very diminshing returns.
All of these assume a properly designed and torqued fastener for the application. Perhaps that should be solution #0...
Once again, I will seriously recommend Carrol Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing as a must read for anyone desiring a real understanding about how fasteners work, and how to keep them working reliably. It should be mandatory reading for any "mechanic" or mechanical engineering student. Simple and readable, this is not a math book, but an encyclopedia of fastening with knowledge gained from decades of experience with race vehicles and aircraft - a place where a loose fastener can represent loss-of-life, vehicle, and mission, as opposed to a mere maintenance headache.
It bothers me to this day that otherwise very mechanically inclined folks still believe that lubricants or grease can cause a properly torqued fastener to loosen, that lubricant causes less than measured torque, that left-hand threads resist loss of torque from parts that have right-hand rotation, that some dirt or rust upon installation is a good thing as it keeps fasteners from loosening, multiple clicks from a torque wrench is a good thing, the torque wrench I inherited from my grandfather is still accurate, that all bolts can be reused indefinitely, and that you can trust your life to a lock washer.
[sigh]
add a comment |
I have to agree with some of the other posters: Something is not right with the fastening, and/or the proper clamping pressure is not being achieved, perhaps due to under-torque.
That said, I would rank the simplest solutions from best to worst as follows:
- castellated nut with cotter pin, hitch pin, safety wire on nut or bolt head
- adhesive threadlocker "Locktite"
- double nuts
- locking nuts, either distorted threads or "Nylocks"
- lockwashers, star washers, etc.
Note that #5 really shouldn't be on the list, as once they are compressed, they are nearly worthless. Note also that #1 may be very difficult or nearly impossible to achieve for your application. Any or all of these solutions can be combined, but past #2 you are looking at very diminshing returns.
All of these assume a properly designed and torqued fastener for the application. Perhaps that should be solution #0...
Once again, I will seriously recommend Carrol Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing as a must read for anyone desiring a real understanding about how fasteners work, and how to keep them working reliably. It should be mandatory reading for any "mechanic" or mechanical engineering student. Simple and readable, this is not a math book, but an encyclopedia of fastening with knowledge gained from decades of experience with race vehicles and aircraft - a place where a loose fastener can represent loss-of-life, vehicle, and mission, as opposed to a mere maintenance headache.
It bothers me to this day that otherwise very mechanically inclined folks still believe that lubricants or grease can cause a properly torqued fastener to loosen, that lubricant causes less than measured torque, that left-hand threads resist loss of torque from parts that have right-hand rotation, that some dirt or rust upon installation is a good thing as it keeps fasteners from loosening, multiple clicks from a torque wrench is a good thing, the torque wrench I inherited from my grandfather is still accurate, that all bolts can be reused indefinitely, and that you can trust your life to a lock washer.
[sigh]
add a comment |
I have to agree with some of the other posters: Something is not right with the fastening, and/or the proper clamping pressure is not being achieved, perhaps due to under-torque.
That said, I would rank the simplest solutions from best to worst as follows:
- castellated nut with cotter pin, hitch pin, safety wire on nut or bolt head
- adhesive threadlocker "Locktite"
- double nuts
- locking nuts, either distorted threads or "Nylocks"
- lockwashers, star washers, etc.
Note that #5 really shouldn't be on the list, as once they are compressed, they are nearly worthless. Note also that #1 may be very difficult or nearly impossible to achieve for your application. Any or all of these solutions can be combined, but past #2 you are looking at very diminshing returns.
All of these assume a properly designed and torqued fastener for the application. Perhaps that should be solution #0...
Once again, I will seriously recommend Carrol Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing as a must read for anyone desiring a real understanding about how fasteners work, and how to keep them working reliably. It should be mandatory reading for any "mechanic" or mechanical engineering student. Simple and readable, this is not a math book, but an encyclopedia of fastening with knowledge gained from decades of experience with race vehicles and aircraft - a place where a loose fastener can represent loss-of-life, vehicle, and mission, as opposed to a mere maintenance headache.
It bothers me to this day that otherwise very mechanically inclined folks still believe that lubricants or grease can cause a properly torqued fastener to loosen, that lubricant causes less than measured torque, that left-hand threads resist loss of torque from parts that have right-hand rotation, that some dirt or rust upon installation is a good thing as it keeps fasteners from loosening, multiple clicks from a torque wrench is a good thing, the torque wrench I inherited from my grandfather is still accurate, that all bolts can be reused indefinitely, and that you can trust your life to a lock washer.
[sigh]
I have to agree with some of the other posters: Something is not right with the fastening, and/or the proper clamping pressure is not being achieved, perhaps due to under-torque.
That said, I would rank the simplest solutions from best to worst as follows:
- castellated nut with cotter pin, hitch pin, safety wire on nut or bolt head
- adhesive threadlocker "Locktite"
- double nuts
- locking nuts, either distorted threads or "Nylocks"
- lockwashers, star washers, etc.
Note that #5 really shouldn't be on the list, as once they are compressed, they are nearly worthless. Note also that #1 may be very difficult or nearly impossible to achieve for your application. Any or all of these solutions can be combined, but past #2 you are looking at very diminshing returns.
All of these assume a properly designed and torqued fastener for the application. Perhaps that should be solution #0...
Once again, I will seriously recommend Carrol Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing as a must read for anyone desiring a real understanding about how fasteners work, and how to keep them working reliably. It should be mandatory reading for any "mechanic" or mechanical engineering student. Simple and readable, this is not a math book, but an encyclopedia of fastening with knowledge gained from decades of experience with race vehicles and aircraft - a place where a loose fastener can represent loss-of-life, vehicle, and mission, as opposed to a mere maintenance headache.
It bothers me to this day that otherwise very mechanically inclined folks still believe that lubricants or grease can cause a properly torqued fastener to loosen, that lubricant causes less than measured torque, that left-hand threads resist loss of torque from parts that have right-hand rotation, that some dirt or rust upon installation is a good thing as it keeps fasteners from loosening, multiple clicks from a torque wrench is a good thing, the torque wrench I inherited from my grandfather is still accurate, that all bolts can be reused indefinitely, and that you can trust your life to a lock washer.
[sigh]
edited 1 hour ago
answered 1 hour ago
SteveRacerSteveRacer
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– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
2 days ago
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Consider ensuring that the screw is the correct length, and isn't just bottoming out in a hole. Also make sure you're tightening it sufficiently - if the handle bar is moving, it can cause the screw to loosen. If one side is routinely loosening, there may be a reason for it.
– Arunas
22 hours ago