Swapping High voltage breakers; change 50amp to 40ampWhy is this ceiling light fixture wired this way?Where in the breaker box should I terminate the neutral wire from my dryer circuit?Identifying unspliced pass-through wires in a receptacle boxDoes this wiring meet the NEC standards?How do I wire up a shed for 60A service today with the ability to grow later?Is it safe to swap the neutral wire between the supply and load side?Installing double-pole line-voltage thermostatGFCI with 2x 20 amp 1 pole breakersIf my heat pump does not have a neutral, do I still need a neutral wire?Please clarify wiring to and for remote pool load center
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Swapping High voltage breakers; change 50amp to 40amp
Why is this ceiling light fixture wired this way?Where in the breaker box should I terminate the neutral wire from my dryer circuit?Identifying unspliced pass-through wires in a receptacle boxDoes this wiring meet the NEC standards?How do I wire up a shed for 60A service today with the ability to grow later?Is it safe to swap the neutral wire between the supply and load side?Installing double-pole line-voltage thermostatGFCI with 2x 20 amp 1 pole breakersIf my heat pump does not have a neutral, do I still need a neutral wire?Please clarify wiring to and for remote pool load center
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I have 6AWG wiring with a 50amp breaker; no device is yet connected to the circuit. I need to swap the 50amp breaker for a 40amp breaker. I have popped the breaker loose from the bus bar in the panel. Are the red and black wires I need to transfer to the 40amp breaker actually live wires? I'm not going to touch them but rather just wanted to know for peace of mind.
wiring
asked 8 hours ago
Steve SensabaughSteve Sensabaugh
62
New contributor
Steve Sensabaugh is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
I have 6AWG wiring with a 50amp breaker; no device is yet connected to the circuit. I need to swap the 50amp breaker for a 40amp breaker. I have popped the breaker loose from the bus bar in the panel. Are the red and black wires I need to transfer to the 40amp breaker actually live wires? I'm not going to touch them but rather just wanted to know for peace of mind.
wiring
asked 8 hours ago
Steve SensabaughSteve Sensabaugh
62
New contributor
Steve Sensabaugh is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
My understanding is that you need to turn off the main switch, typically at the top of the panel. I'd certainly expect those to be live.
– Jeffrey
8 hours ago
Unfortunately there does not appear to be a main switch on this Cutler-Hammer panel. The red/black wires originate in a box where the device (cooktop) will be but they are not connected to any device. The other ends are inserted to the two poles on the current 50amp breaker which is popped out and not connected to anything. This is why I think the wires are not live.
– Steve Sensabaugh
8 hours ago
Just to make sure - why are you swapping out the breaker? Does the appliance specifically call for a 40A breaker?
– JPhi1618
7 hours ago
Yes the Cooktop calls for a 40amp circuit. Since I was given 6AWG wire (instead of 8AWG wire) by mistake, the electrician saw the 6AWG wire and used a 50amp breaker. The Cooktop installer requires that the breaker be 40amp and that is why I am changing it.
– Steve Sensabaugh
7 hours ago
Use a multimeter or a contactless AC voltage detector and verify that the wires are not live, before touching them.
– Jonathon Reinhart
28 mins ago
add a comment |
I have 6AWG wiring with a 50amp breaker; no device is yet connected to the circuit. I need to swap the 50amp breaker for a 40amp breaker. I have popped the breaker loose from the bus bar in the panel. Are the red and black wires I need to transfer to the 40amp breaker actually live wires? I'm not going to touch them but rather just wanted to know for peace of mind.
wiring
asked 8 hours ago
Steve SensabaughSteve Sensabaugh
62
New contributor
Steve Sensabaugh is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I have 6AWG wiring with a 50amp breaker; no device is yet connected to the circuit. I need to swap the 50amp breaker for a 40amp breaker. I have popped the breaker loose from the bus bar in the panel. Are the red and black wires I need to transfer to the 40amp breaker actually live wires? I'm not going to touch them but rather just wanted to know for peace of mind.
wiring
wiring
asked 8 hours ago
Steve SensabaughSteve Sensabaugh
62
New contributor
Steve Sensabaugh is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 8 hours ago
Steve SensabaughSteve Sensabaugh
62
New contributor
Steve Sensabaugh is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 8 hours ago
Steve SensabaughSteve Sensabaugh
62
New contributor
Steve Sensabaugh is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 8 hours ago
Steve SensabaughSteve Sensabaugh
62
asked 8 hours ago
Steve SensabaughSteve Sensabaugh
62
62
New contributor
Steve Sensabaugh is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
Steve Sensabaugh is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
My understanding is that you need to turn off the main switch, typically at the top of the panel. I'd certainly expect those to be live.
– Jeffrey
8 hours ago
Unfortunately there does not appear to be a main switch on this Cutler-Hammer panel. The red/black wires originate in a box where the device (cooktop) will be but they are not connected to any device. The other ends are inserted to the two poles on the current 50amp breaker which is popped out and not connected to anything. This is why I think the wires are not live.
– Steve Sensabaugh
8 hours ago
Just to make sure - why are you swapping out the breaker? Does the appliance specifically call for a 40A breaker?
– JPhi1618
7 hours ago
Yes the Cooktop calls for a 40amp circuit. Since I was given 6AWG wire (instead of 8AWG wire) by mistake, the electrician saw the 6AWG wire and used a 50amp breaker. The Cooktop installer requires that the breaker be 40amp and that is why I am changing it.
– Steve Sensabaugh
7 hours ago
Use a multimeter or a contactless AC voltage detector and verify that the wires are not live, before touching them.
– Jonathon Reinhart
28 mins ago
add a comment |
My understanding is that you need to turn off the main switch, typically at the top of the panel. I'd certainly expect those to be live.
– Jeffrey
8 hours ago
Unfortunately there does not appear to be a main switch on this Cutler-Hammer panel. The red/black wires originate in a box where the device (cooktop) will be but they are not connected to any device. The other ends are inserted to the two poles on the current 50amp breaker which is popped out and not connected to anything. This is why I think the wires are not live.
– Steve Sensabaugh
8 hours ago
Just to make sure - why are you swapping out the breaker? Does the appliance specifically call for a 40A breaker?
– JPhi1618
7 hours ago
Yes the Cooktop calls for a 40amp circuit. Since I was given 6AWG wire (instead of 8AWG wire) by mistake, the electrician saw the 6AWG wire and used a 50amp breaker. The Cooktop installer requires that the breaker be 40amp and that is why I am changing it.
– Steve Sensabaugh
7 hours ago
Use a multimeter or a contactless AC voltage detector and verify that the wires are not live, before touching them.
– Jonathon Reinhart
28 mins ago
My understanding is that you need to turn off the main switch, typically at the top of the panel. I'd certainly expect those to be live.
– Jeffrey
8 hours ago
My understanding is that you need to turn off the main switch, typically at the top of the panel. I'd certainly expect those to be live.
– Jeffrey
8 hours ago
Unfortunately there does not appear to be a main switch on this Cutler-Hammer panel. The red/black wires originate in a box where the device (cooktop) will be but they are not connected to any device. The other ends are inserted to the two poles on the current 50amp breaker which is popped out and not connected to anything. This is why I think the wires are not live.
– Steve Sensabaugh
8 hours ago
Unfortunately there does not appear to be a main switch on this Cutler-Hammer panel. The red/black wires originate in a box where the device (cooktop) will be but they are not connected to any device. The other ends are inserted to the two poles on the current 50amp breaker which is popped out and not connected to anything. This is why I think the wires are not live.
– Steve Sensabaugh
8 hours ago
Just to make sure - why are you swapping out the breaker? Does the appliance specifically call for a 40A breaker?
– JPhi1618
7 hours ago
Just to make sure - why are you swapping out the breaker? Does the appliance specifically call for a 40A breaker?
– JPhi1618
7 hours ago
Yes the Cooktop calls for a 40amp circuit. Since I was given 6AWG wire (instead of 8AWG wire) by mistake, the electrician saw the 6AWG wire and used a 50amp breaker. The Cooktop installer requires that the breaker be 40amp and that is why I am changing it.
– Steve Sensabaugh
7 hours ago
Yes the Cooktop calls for a 40amp circuit. Since I was given 6AWG wire (instead of 8AWG wire) by mistake, the electrician saw the 6AWG wire and used a 50amp breaker. The Cooktop installer requires that the breaker be 40amp and that is why I am changing it.
– Steve Sensabaugh
7 hours ago
Use a multimeter or a contactless AC voltage detector and verify that the wires are not live, before touching them.
– Jonathon Reinhart
28 mins ago
Use a multimeter or a contactless AC voltage detector and verify that the wires are not live, before touching them.
– Jonathon Reinhart
28 mins ago
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
The metal bar that the breaker connects to is hot. The breaker provides power to the connected wires, and cuts power to them when it is off. So, if everything else is working correctly, the wires connected to the breaker do not have any power.
While it's possible to not have a main breaker in that panel to cut off all power, there's normally a switch or a breaker in another box that will do it. The bus bars inside a panel are large and easy to touch, so its best to turn off power to the whole panel when swapping breakers. Cutting off all power also keeps you safe from wiring mistakes that could result in power being fed back into the panel from another, seemingly unrelated breaker.
answered 7 hours ago
JPhi1618JPhi1618
11.7k22548
add a comment |
If you rock the breaker out of its snapped down position, the breaker disengages from the bus bars and should be cold. I frequently change CH breakers this way.
However, if the breaker is back-fed from a generator or mains, then all bets are off. However back fed breakers are supposed to bolted down!
All that said... there is a much easier way to de-energize a wire. Move the breaker's onboard switch to the position marked "Off".
On Cutler Hammer CH and BR types, as well as CL types, that should be away from the middle. When 2 breakers are connected side by side, for both to be on, they must be toward each other. If a piece of metal the right size was there, they couldn't both be on at once. That is a very cheap way to do a generator interlock, and they make factory authorized kits that cost as little as $25. These kits also typically strap the breakers to each other, to satisfy the bolt-down requirement.
answered 7 hours ago
HarperHarper
82k556163
add a comment |
Do not always think power is off,because breaker is off.That breaker could have been fed from another panel.If that was the case,the breaker is off but the conductors still have power.You would need to shut the other breaker down. Always double check for live power,and use a meter to test it. This could save your life. And if you are in doubt shut the main off .
answered 7 hours ago
Robert MoodyRobert Moody
36711
add a comment |
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3 Answers
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3 Answers
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active
oldest
votes
The metal bar that the breaker connects to is hot. The breaker provides power to the connected wires, and cuts power to them when it is off. So, if everything else is working correctly, the wires connected to the breaker do not have any power.
While it's possible to not have a main breaker in that panel to cut off all power, there's normally a switch or a breaker in another box that will do it. The bus bars inside a panel are large and easy to touch, so its best to turn off power to the whole panel when swapping breakers. Cutting off all power also keeps you safe from wiring mistakes that could result in power being fed back into the panel from another, seemingly unrelated breaker.
answered 7 hours ago
JPhi1618JPhi1618
11.7k22548
add a comment |
The metal bar that the breaker connects to is hot. The breaker provides power to the connected wires, and cuts power to them when it is off. So, if everything else is working correctly, the wires connected to the breaker do not have any power.
While it's possible to not have a main breaker in that panel to cut off all power, there's normally a switch or a breaker in another box that will do it. The bus bars inside a panel are large and easy to touch, so its best to turn off power to the whole panel when swapping breakers. Cutting off all power also keeps you safe from wiring mistakes that could result in power being fed back into the panel from another, seemingly unrelated breaker.
answered 7 hours ago
JPhi1618JPhi1618
11.7k22548
add a comment |
The metal bar that the breaker connects to is hot. The breaker provides power to the connected wires, and cuts power to them when it is off. So, if everything else is working correctly, the wires connected to the breaker do not have any power.
While it's possible to not have a main breaker in that panel to cut off all power, there's normally a switch or a breaker in another box that will do it. The bus bars inside a panel are large and easy to touch, so its best to turn off power to the whole panel when swapping breakers. Cutting off all power also keeps you safe from wiring mistakes that could result in power being fed back into the panel from another, seemingly unrelated breaker.
answered 7 hours ago
JPhi1618JPhi1618
11.7k22548
The metal bar that the breaker connects to is hot. The breaker provides power to the connected wires, and cuts power to them when it is off. So, if everything else is working correctly, the wires connected to the breaker do not have any power.
While it's possible to not have a main breaker in that panel to cut off all power, there's normally a switch or a breaker in another box that will do it. The bus bars inside a panel are large and easy to touch, so its best to turn off power to the whole panel when swapping breakers. Cutting off all power also keeps you safe from wiring mistakes that could result in power being fed back into the panel from another, seemingly unrelated breaker.
answered 7 hours ago
JPhi1618JPhi1618
11.7k22548
answered 7 hours ago
JPhi1618JPhi1618
11.7k22548
answered 7 hours ago
JPhi1618JPhi1618
11.7k22548
answered 7 hours ago
JPhi1618JPhi1618
11.7k22548
11.7k22548
add a comment |
add a comment |
If you rock the breaker out of its snapped down position, the breaker disengages from the bus bars and should be cold. I frequently change CH breakers this way.
However, if the breaker is back-fed from a generator or mains, then all bets are off. However back fed breakers are supposed to bolted down!
All that said... there is a much easier way to de-energize a wire. Move the breaker's onboard switch to the position marked "Off".
On Cutler Hammer CH and BR types, as well as CL types, that should be away from the middle. When 2 breakers are connected side by side, for both to be on, they must be toward each other. If a piece of metal the right size was there, they couldn't both be on at once. That is a very cheap way to do a generator interlock, and they make factory authorized kits that cost as little as $25. These kits also typically strap the breakers to each other, to satisfy the bolt-down requirement.
answered 7 hours ago
HarperHarper
82k556163
add a comment |
If you rock the breaker out of its snapped down position, the breaker disengages from the bus bars and should be cold. I frequently change CH breakers this way.
However, if the breaker is back-fed from a generator or mains, then all bets are off. However back fed breakers are supposed to bolted down!
All that said... there is a much easier way to de-energize a wire. Move the breaker's onboard switch to the position marked "Off".
On Cutler Hammer CH and BR types, as well as CL types, that should be away from the middle. When 2 breakers are connected side by side, for both to be on, they must be toward each other. If a piece of metal the right size was there, they couldn't both be on at once. That is a very cheap way to do a generator interlock, and they make factory authorized kits that cost as little as $25. These kits also typically strap the breakers to each other, to satisfy the bolt-down requirement.
answered 7 hours ago
HarperHarper
82k556163
add a comment |
If you rock the breaker out of its snapped down position, the breaker disengages from the bus bars and should be cold. I frequently change CH breakers this way.
However, if the breaker is back-fed from a generator or mains, then all bets are off. However back fed breakers are supposed to bolted down!
All that said... there is a much easier way to de-energize a wire. Move the breaker's onboard switch to the position marked "Off".
On Cutler Hammer CH and BR types, as well as CL types, that should be away from the middle. When 2 breakers are connected side by side, for both to be on, they must be toward each other. If a piece of metal the right size was there, they couldn't both be on at once. That is a very cheap way to do a generator interlock, and they make factory authorized kits that cost as little as $25. These kits also typically strap the breakers to each other, to satisfy the bolt-down requirement.
answered 7 hours ago
HarperHarper
82k556163
If you rock the breaker out of its snapped down position, the breaker disengages from the bus bars and should be cold. I frequently change CH breakers this way.
However, if the breaker is back-fed from a generator or mains, then all bets are off. However back fed breakers are supposed to bolted down!
All that said... there is a much easier way to de-energize a wire. Move the breaker's onboard switch to the position marked "Off".
On Cutler Hammer CH and BR types, as well as CL types, that should be away from the middle. When 2 breakers are connected side by side, for both to be on, they must be toward each other. If a piece of metal the right size was there, they couldn't both be on at once. That is a very cheap way to do a generator interlock, and they make factory authorized kits that cost as little as $25. These kits also typically strap the breakers to each other, to satisfy the bolt-down requirement.
answered 7 hours ago
HarperHarper
82k556163
answered 7 hours ago
HarperHarper
82k556163
answered 7 hours ago
HarperHarper
82k556163
answered 7 hours ago
HarperHarper
82k556163
82k556163
add a comment |
add a comment |
Do not always think power is off,because breaker is off.That breaker could have been fed from another panel.If that was the case,the breaker is off but the conductors still have power.You would need to shut the other breaker down. Always double check for live power,and use a meter to test it. This could save your life. And if you are in doubt shut the main off .
answered 7 hours ago
Robert MoodyRobert Moody
36711
add a comment |
Do not always think power is off,because breaker is off.That breaker could have been fed from another panel.If that was the case,the breaker is off but the conductors still have power.You would need to shut the other breaker down. Always double check for live power,and use a meter to test it. This could save your life. And if you are in doubt shut the main off .
answered 7 hours ago
Robert MoodyRobert Moody
36711
add a comment |
Do not always think power is off,because breaker is off.That breaker could have been fed from another panel.If that was the case,the breaker is off but the conductors still have power.You would need to shut the other breaker down. Always double check for live power,and use a meter to test it. This could save your life. And if you are in doubt shut the main off .
answered 7 hours ago
Robert MoodyRobert Moody
36711
Do not always think power is off,because breaker is off.That breaker could have been fed from another panel.If that was the case,the breaker is off but the conductors still have power.You would need to shut the other breaker down. Always double check for live power,and use a meter to test it. This could save your life. And if you are in doubt shut the main off .
answered 7 hours ago
Robert MoodyRobert Moody
36711
answered 7 hours ago
Robert MoodyRobert Moody
36711
answered 7 hours ago
Robert MoodyRobert Moody
36711
answered 7 hours ago
Robert MoodyRobert Moody
36711
36711
add a comment |
add a comment |
Steve Sensabaugh is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Steve Sensabaugh is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Steve Sensabaugh is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Steve Sensabaugh is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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My understanding is that you need to turn off the main switch, typically at the top of the panel. I'd certainly expect those to be live.
– Jeffrey
8 hours ago
Unfortunately there does not appear to be a main switch on this Cutler-Hammer panel. The red/black wires originate in a box where the device (cooktop) will be but they are not connected to any device. The other ends are inserted to the two poles on the current 50amp breaker which is popped out and not connected to anything. This is why I think the wires are not live.
– Steve Sensabaugh
8 hours ago
Just to make sure - why are you swapping out the breaker? Does the appliance specifically call for a 40A breaker?
– JPhi1618
7 hours ago
Yes the Cooktop calls for a 40amp circuit. Since I was given 6AWG wire (instead of 8AWG wire) by mistake, the electrician saw the 6AWG wire and used a 50amp breaker. The Cooktop installer requires that the breaker be 40amp and that is why I am changing it.
– Steve Sensabaugh
7 hours ago
Use a multimeter or a contactless AC voltage detector and verify that the wires are not live, before touching them.
– Jonathon Reinhart
28 mins ago