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How to capture more stars?


How does Peter Lik manage to capture the stars in such detail in the following photograph?How do I stitch two star trails photos taken by different cameras?How can I capture earthshine?How to brighten stars in Photoshop?How can I capture an image like the stars over a landscape as in the Ubuntu Forever wallpaper?How do I get a shot of both the foreground and stars with astrophotography?What lenses can capture pictures of the moon, stars, and landscape best?The right aperture for capturing stars?How to edit my RAW photo to make the stars come out more?What kind of filter do I need for safe sun photography?






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2















I finally borrowed a tripod from a friend so that I could take pics of stars from my apartment balcony. However, when I did some test shots yesterday, the pics where far from my expectations.



I took these shots around midnight using a 50mm 1.4G lens on a Nikon D5600. Using the 500 rule (i.e 500 / focal length * crop factor = 6.66), I kept the shutter speed at 6, F 1.4, ISO 100. Before taking the shots I manually focused on one of the brightest stars and with AE-Lock I took the pics.



The first click looked normal but its not what I expected, I could only see only two or three stars in the pic. Then I thought maybe I need to capture more light to get the other stars. But that resulted in just a plain white picture.



enter image description here



Now, I have two questions,



1) How to capture more stars ?



2) When the shutter speed was increased, why did the image turn out to be plain white instead of star trails ?










share|improve this question




























    2















    I finally borrowed a tripod from a friend so that I could take pics of stars from my apartment balcony. However, when I did some test shots yesterday, the pics where far from my expectations.



    I took these shots around midnight using a 50mm 1.4G lens on a Nikon D5600. Using the 500 rule (i.e 500 / focal length * crop factor = 6.66), I kept the shutter speed at 6, F 1.4, ISO 100. Before taking the shots I manually focused on one of the brightest stars and with AE-Lock I took the pics.



    The first click looked normal but its not what I expected, I could only see only two or three stars in the pic. Then I thought maybe I need to capture more light to get the other stars. But that resulted in just a plain white picture.



    enter image description here



    Now, I have two questions,



    1) How to capture more stars ?



    2) When the shutter speed was increased, why did the image turn out to be plain white instead of star trails ?










    share|improve this question
























      2












      2








      2








      I finally borrowed a tripod from a friend so that I could take pics of stars from my apartment balcony. However, when I did some test shots yesterday, the pics where far from my expectations.



      I took these shots around midnight using a 50mm 1.4G lens on a Nikon D5600. Using the 500 rule (i.e 500 / focal length * crop factor = 6.66), I kept the shutter speed at 6, F 1.4, ISO 100. Before taking the shots I manually focused on one of the brightest stars and with AE-Lock I took the pics.



      The first click looked normal but its not what I expected, I could only see only two or three stars in the pic. Then I thought maybe I need to capture more light to get the other stars. But that resulted in just a plain white picture.



      enter image description here



      Now, I have two questions,



      1) How to capture more stars ?



      2) When the shutter speed was increased, why did the image turn out to be plain white instead of star trails ?










      share|improve this question














      I finally borrowed a tripod from a friend so that I could take pics of stars from my apartment balcony. However, when I did some test shots yesterday, the pics where far from my expectations.



      I took these shots around midnight using a 50mm 1.4G lens on a Nikon D5600. Using the 500 rule (i.e 500 / focal length * crop factor = 6.66), I kept the shutter speed at 6, F 1.4, ISO 100. Before taking the shots I manually focused on one of the brightest stars and with AE-Lock I took the pics.



      The first click looked normal but its not what I expected, I could only see only two or three stars in the pic. Then I thought maybe I need to capture more light to get the other stars. But that resulted in just a plain white picture.



      enter image description here



      Now, I have two questions,



      1) How to capture more stars ?



      2) When the shutter speed was increased, why did the image turn out to be plain white instead of star trails ?







      astrophotography






      share|improve this question













      share|improve this question











      share|improve this question




      share|improve this question










      asked 9 hours ago









      Prem RammanPrem Ramman

      13527




      13527




















          2 Answers
          2






          active

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          3














          1) To capture more stars, go somewhere where there is less light pollution. If you can't see the north star, you aren't going to get much. I can't see the north star from my front yard, so attempting to shoot stars is hopeless.



          2) If a longer shutter speed resulted in plain white, then the light pollution overwhelmed the image.






          share|improve this answer






























            0














            Shoot when there is no moon in the sky. e.g. Near the "New Moon" or "Last Quarter Moon" if shooting after sunset. Get away from urban light pollution.



            I've generated a simulated field of view (using Sky Safari Pro) for your Nikon & 50mm lens (the blue box is the field of view) and approximated your section of the sky:



            Field of View for Nikon D5600 & 50mm f/1.4



            You can see a few faint objects that would show up if you were in a dark sky ... such as the Whirlpool galaxy, etc.



            You are shooting the northern area of sky (although this time of year the Big Dipper asterism is very high up near the zenith). For more stars, you might pick a different region. The section of sky near Sagittarius is the direction toward the galactic core of the Milky Way and this has the higher number of stars (and other deep sky objects). It's a good target after dark in July (although you can shoot in now if you're willing to stay up a bit later in the night).



            A tracking head helps give the camera time to saturate more stars (the Sky Watcher "Star Adventurer" head and the iOptron "Sky Guider Pro" are the popular tracking heads on the market -- they do need a solid tripod.)



            Astrophotographers reduce noise by shooting LOTS of frames (e.g. at least 1-2 hours worth of exposures where each exposure may be a few minutes long) and then combining them using stacking software (free stacking software such as "Deep Sky Stacker" and there are many free video tutorials on using it. There are many commercial options as well). Given enough frames, the software can improve your signal-to-noise ratio which results in a final image with more detail and less noise (although typically a lot of manual love goes into the post processing work -- the image that comes out of DSS wont look as good until it has some manual adjustments.)






            share|improve this answer























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              2 Answers
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              active

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              active

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              3














              1) To capture more stars, go somewhere where there is less light pollution. If you can't see the north star, you aren't going to get much. I can't see the north star from my front yard, so attempting to shoot stars is hopeless.



              2) If a longer shutter speed resulted in plain white, then the light pollution overwhelmed the image.






              share|improve this answer



























                3














                1) To capture more stars, go somewhere where there is less light pollution. If you can't see the north star, you aren't going to get much. I can't see the north star from my front yard, so attempting to shoot stars is hopeless.



                2) If a longer shutter speed resulted in plain white, then the light pollution overwhelmed the image.






                share|improve this answer

























                  3












                  3








                  3







                  1) To capture more stars, go somewhere where there is less light pollution. If you can't see the north star, you aren't going to get much. I can't see the north star from my front yard, so attempting to shoot stars is hopeless.



                  2) If a longer shutter speed resulted in plain white, then the light pollution overwhelmed the image.






                  share|improve this answer













                  1) To capture more stars, go somewhere where there is less light pollution. If you can't see the north star, you aren't going to get much. I can't see the north star from my front yard, so attempting to shoot stars is hopeless.



                  2) If a longer shutter speed resulted in plain white, then the light pollution overwhelmed the image.







                  share|improve this answer












                  share|improve this answer



                  share|improve this answer










                  answered 6 hours ago









                  Mattman944Mattman944

                  1313




                  1313























                      0














                      Shoot when there is no moon in the sky. e.g. Near the "New Moon" or "Last Quarter Moon" if shooting after sunset. Get away from urban light pollution.



                      I've generated a simulated field of view (using Sky Safari Pro) for your Nikon & 50mm lens (the blue box is the field of view) and approximated your section of the sky:



                      Field of View for Nikon D5600 & 50mm f/1.4



                      You can see a few faint objects that would show up if you were in a dark sky ... such as the Whirlpool galaxy, etc.



                      You are shooting the northern area of sky (although this time of year the Big Dipper asterism is very high up near the zenith). For more stars, you might pick a different region. The section of sky near Sagittarius is the direction toward the galactic core of the Milky Way and this has the higher number of stars (and other deep sky objects). It's a good target after dark in July (although you can shoot in now if you're willing to stay up a bit later in the night).



                      A tracking head helps give the camera time to saturate more stars (the Sky Watcher "Star Adventurer" head and the iOptron "Sky Guider Pro" are the popular tracking heads on the market -- they do need a solid tripod.)



                      Astrophotographers reduce noise by shooting LOTS of frames (e.g. at least 1-2 hours worth of exposures where each exposure may be a few minutes long) and then combining them using stacking software (free stacking software such as "Deep Sky Stacker" and there are many free video tutorials on using it. There are many commercial options as well). Given enough frames, the software can improve your signal-to-noise ratio which results in a final image with more detail and less noise (although typically a lot of manual love goes into the post processing work -- the image that comes out of DSS wont look as good until it has some manual adjustments.)






                      share|improve this answer



























                        0














                        Shoot when there is no moon in the sky. e.g. Near the "New Moon" or "Last Quarter Moon" if shooting after sunset. Get away from urban light pollution.



                        I've generated a simulated field of view (using Sky Safari Pro) for your Nikon & 50mm lens (the blue box is the field of view) and approximated your section of the sky:



                        Field of View for Nikon D5600 & 50mm f/1.4



                        You can see a few faint objects that would show up if you were in a dark sky ... such as the Whirlpool galaxy, etc.



                        You are shooting the northern area of sky (although this time of year the Big Dipper asterism is very high up near the zenith). For more stars, you might pick a different region. The section of sky near Sagittarius is the direction toward the galactic core of the Milky Way and this has the higher number of stars (and other deep sky objects). It's a good target after dark in July (although you can shoot in now if you're willing to stay up a bit later in the night).



                        A tracking head helps give the camera time to saturate more stars (the Sky Watcher "Star Adventurer" head and the iOptron "Sky Guider Pro" are the popular tracking heads on the market -- they do need a solid tripod.)



                        Astrophotographers reduce noise by shooting LOTS of frames (e.g. at least 1-2 hours worth of exposures where each exposure may be a few minutes long) and then combining them using stacking software (free stacking software such as "Deep Sky Stacker" and there are many free video tutorials on using it. There are many commercial options as well). Given enough frames, the software can improve your signal-to-noise ratio which results in a final image with more detail and less noise (although typically a lot of manual love goes into the post processing work -- the image that comes out of DSS wont look as good until it has some manual adjustments.)






                        share|improve this answer

























                          0












                          0








                          0







                          Shoot when there is no moon in the sky. e.g. Near the "New Moon" or "Last Quarter Moon" if shooting after sunset. Get away from urban light pollution.



                          I've generated a simulated field of view (using Sky Safari Pro) for your Nikon & 50mm lens (the blue box is the field of view) and approximated your section of the sky:



                          Field of View for Nikon D5600 & 50mm f/1.4



                          You can see a few faint objects that would show up if you were in a dark sky ... such as the Whirlpool galaxy, etc.



                          You are shooting the northern area of sky (although this time of year the Big Dipper asterism is very high up near the zenith). For more stars, you might pick a different region. The section of sky near Sagittarius is the direction toward the galactic core of the Milky Way and this has the higher number of stars (and other deep sky objects). It's a good target after dark in July (although you can shoot in now if you're willing to stay up a bit later in the night).



                          A tracking head helps give the camera time to saturate more stars (the Sky Watcher "Star Adventurer" head and the iOptron "Sky Guider Pro" are the popular tracking heads on the market -- they do need a solid tripod.)



                          Astrophotographers reduce noise by shooting LOTS of frames (e.g. at least 1-2 hours worth of exposures where each exposure may be a few minutes long) and then combining them using stacking software (free stacking software such as "Deep Sky Stacker" and there are many free video tutorials on using it. There are many commercial options as well). Given enough frames, the software can improve your signal-to-noise ratio which results in a final image with more detail and less noise (although typically a lot of manual love goes into the post processing work -- the image that comes out of DSS wont look as good until it has some manual adjustments.)






                          share|improve this answer













                          Shoot when there is no moon in the sky. e.g. Near the "New Moon" or "Last Quarter Moon" if shooting after sunset. Get away from urban light pollution.



                          I've generated a simulated field of view (using Sky Safari Pro) for your Nikon & 50mm lens (the blue box is the field of view) and approximated your section of the sky:



                          Field of View for Nikon D5600 & 50mm f/1.4



                          You can see a few faint objects that would show up if you were in a dark sky ... such as the Whirlpool galaxy, etc.



                          You are shooting the northern area of sky (although this time of year the Big Dipper asterism is very high up near the zenith). For more stars, you might pick a different region. The section of sky near Sagittarius is the direction toward the galactic core of the Milky Way and this has the higher number of stars (and other deep sky objects). It's a good target after dark in July (although you can shoot in now if you're willing to stay up a bit later in the night).



                          A tracking head helps give the camera time to saturate more stars (the Sky Watcher "Star Adventurer" head and the iOptron "Sky Guider Pro" are the popular tracking heads on the market -- they do need a solid tripod.)



                          Astrophotographers reduce noise by shooting LOTS of frames (e.g. at least 1-2 hours worth of exposures where each exposure may be a few minutes long) and then combining them using stacking software (free stacking software such as "Deep Sky Stacker" and there are many free video tutorials on using it. There are many commercial options as well). Given enough frames, the software can improve your signal-to-noise ratio which results in a final image with more detail and less noise (although typically a lot of manual love goes into the post processing work -- the image that comes out of DSS wont look as good until it has some manual adjustments.)







                          share|improve this answer












                          share|improve this answer



                          share|improve this answer










                          answered 3 hours ago









                          Tim CampbellTim Campbell

                          8518




                          8518



























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