Will using a resistor in series with a LED to control its voltage increase the total energy expenditure?TLC5940 with multiple voltage RGB LEDsInfrared spotlight project, need x50 resistors. How many ohms what type to use?About a solar cell phone chargerLED Resistor Choice with changing voltageIs there a limit to the number of parallel LED if each has its own resistor?Is there any pitfall to using resistors in series AND parallel for an LED array?Determining voltage and current changes to make components compatible with the voltage sourceResistors before every led?LED Blinking after replace
How can God warn people of the upcoming rapture without disrupting society?
How to remove ambiguity: "... lives in the city of H, the capital of the province of NS, WHERE the unemployment rate is ..."?
Is it possible to grow new organs through exposure to radioactivity?
If I animate and control a zombie, does it benefit from Undead Fortitude when it's reduced to 0 HP?
Why am I not billed for EOB balance?
Is there a way to count the number of lines of text in a file including non-delimited ones?
Software for validating answers from students
How do you deal with the emotions of not being the one to find the cause of a bug?
Can renaming a method preserve encapsulation?
Does one make a shehecheyanu on "used" jewelry?
Modeling the uncertainty of the input parameters
How is являться different from есть and быть
Why aren't rockets built with truss structures inside their fuel & oxidizer tanks to increase structural strength?
The cat ate your input again!
How far did Gandalf and the Balrog drop from the bridge in Moria?
Is there a SQL/English like language that lets you define formulations given some data?
Can lodestones be used to magnetize crude iron weapons?
How to find directories containing only specific files
Is there a way to encourage or even force airlines and booking engines to show options with overnight layovers?
Telephone number in spoken words
Boss asked a co-worker to assault me
How to derive this identity
Do I have to cite common CS algorithms?
Will using a resistor in series with a LED to control its voltage increase the total energy expenditure?
Will using a resistor in series with a LED to control its voltage increase the total energy expenditure?
TLC5940 with multiple voltage RGB LEDsInfrared spotlight project, need x50 resistors. How many ohms what type to use?About a solar cell phone chargerLED Resistor Choice with changing voltageIs there a limit to the number of parallel LED if each has its own resistor?Is there any pitfall to using resistors in series AND parallel for an LED array?Determining voltage and current changes to make components compatible with the voltage sourceResistors before every led?LED Blinking after replace
.everyoneloves__top-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__mid-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__bot-mid-leaderboard:empty margin-bottom:0;
$begingroup$
This might sound like a stupid question, but I want a confirmation. I watched a video on Youtube about using LEDs. Those LEDs required a voltage around 2 volts at 20 mA.
In order to power one LED using a 5 volts power supply, the author used a resistor in series. He calculated he needed around 150 ohms (using U=RI, 5-2=3 volts, 3V/20mA=150ohms).
What I find disturbing is that the resistor, in order to control the voltage must be consuming energy too. P=UI, so 3x20mA=60mW, on top of the LED 2x20mA=40mW. In other words, adding +150% energy consumption to the actual need for lighting up the LED.
Am I missing something or is it typical to spend extra energy just to be able to use electronic components that require a lower voltage?
And second question, is there a way to avoid doing it for this type of circuit (5V source, 2V LED)?
voltage resistors electricity
New contributor
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
This might sound like a stupid question, but I want a confirmation. I watched a video on Youtube about using LEDs. Those LEDs required a voltage around 2 volts at 20 mA.
In order to power one LED using a 5 volts power supply, the author used a resistor in series. He calculated he needed around 150 ohms (using U=RI, 5-2=3 volts, 3V/20mA=150ohms).
What I find disturbing is that the resistor, in order to control the voltage must be consuming energy too. P=UI, so 3x20mA=60mW, on top of the LED 2x20mA=40mW. In other words, adding +150% energy consumption to the actual need for lighting up the LED.
Am I missing something or is it typical to spend extra energy just to be able to use electronic components that require a lower voltage?
And second question, is there a way to avoid doing it for this type of circuit (5V source, 2V LED)?
voltage resistors electricity
New contributor
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
This might sound like a stupid question, but I want a confirmation. I watched a video on Youtube about using LEDs. Those LEDs required a voltage around 2 volts at 20 mA.
In order to power one LED using a 5 volts power supply, the author used a resistor in series. He calculated he needed around 150 ohms (using U=RI, 5-2=3 volts, 3V/20mA=150ohms).
What I find disturbing is that the resistor, in order to control the voltage must be consuming energy too. P=UI, so 3x20mA=60mW, on top of the LED 2x20mA=40mW. In other words, adding +150% energy consumption to the actual need for lighting up the LED.
Am I missing something or is it typical to spend extra energy just to be able to use electronic components that require a lower voltage?
And second question, is there a way to avoid doing it for this type of circuit (5V source, 2V LED)?
voltage resistors electricity
New contributor
$endgroup$
This might sound like a stupid question, but I want a confirmation. I watched a video on Youtube about using LEDs. Those LEDs required a voltage around 2 volts at 20 mA.
In order to power one LED using a 5 volts power supply, the author used a resistor in series. He calculated he needed around 150 ohms (using U=RI, 5-2=3 volts, 3V/20mA=150ohms).
What I find disturbing is that the resistor, in order to control the voltage must be consuming energy too. P=UI, so 3x20mA=60mW, on top of the LED 2x20mA=40mW. In other words, adding +150% energy consumption to the actual need for lighting up the LED.
Am I missing something or is it typical to spend extra energy just to be able to use electronic components that require a lower voltage?
And second question, is there a way to avoid doing it for this type of circuit (5V source, 2V LED)?
voltage resistors electricity
voltage resistors electricity
New contributor
New contributor
edited 7 hours ago
JRE
27.6k6 gold badges52 silver badges89 bronze badges
27.6k6 gold badges52 silver badges89 bronze badges
New contributor
asked 8 hours ago
ExocytosisExocytosis
1045 bronze badges
1045 bronze badges
New contributor
New contributor
add a comment |
add a comment |
6 Answers
6
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
Yes, that resistor wastes power.
If the author is using an LED for an indicator light, then they're wasting a lot more power by their choice of LED. An LED that needs 20mA to show up in a brightly-lit room is typical of 1970's technology. If you shop for higher-brightness LEDs you'll blast your eyeballs out at 20mA, and you'll find yourself stopping the thing down to 1mA or so. One such LED, with a matching resistor, would use 3.3mW at 3.3V, where a 20mA, 1.5V LED alone (never mind the resistor) would use 30mW.
The ultimate way to reduce the circuit power consumption would be to use the most efficient LEDs that you could find, and power them with a switching converter. A decent switching converter will have somewhere between 80% and 95% efficiency, so you'll use between 25 and 5% more power than just the LED. But you'd have to use one per LED (or LED string), and it's hard to justify a super-efficient switching converter for each indicator light.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
You've got the right idea. Partly.
An LED used with a series resistor does waste the energy dissipated in the resistor. Depending on the voltage from the power supply, you can easily waste more energy in the resistor than you use for the LED.
So far, you are correct.
What I want to correct is the idea that the resistor is there to lower the voltage.
The resistor is there to limit the current.
LEDs are current driven devices. The forward voltage varies with current and temperature.
To get a stable brightness out of an LED, you regulate the current.
You will have noticed that the calculation for the series resistor uses the desired LED current. You take the difference of the supply voltage and the (approximate) forward voltage of the LED, and divide that by the current to find the value for the series resistor.
If you tried to regulate an LED only by regulating the voltage, then you would destroy your LED very quickly. Just below the forward voltage, the LED doesn't light up at all. Just above the forward voltage the LED becomes the next best thing to a short circuit. There is a tiny range in between where it lights up and passes only a little bit of current.
That little range is impossible to hit with just a voltage regulator - it moves with temperature and current - current makes the LED get warmer, and warmer makes the LED conduct more. You would be varying the voltage up and down wildly with some kind of feedback circuit measuring the current.
Or, just regulate the current to begin with. Provide no more current than needed to light your LED at the desired brightness, and let the voltage do as it pleases - the voltage is of no interest.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Your answer is the closest to correct.
$endgroup$
– GSLI
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@GSLI: I posted my answer like nearly two hours after the others. It's still climbing. And if it stays lower voted, well, no biggie.
$endgroup$
– JRE
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
No, you are not missing anything. The energy consumed by the resistor is wasted but, if you were contemplating a circuit that used tens or hundreds of LEDs you might consider a buck regulator to step the LED circuit supply voltage down to maybe 3 volts and make a significant net power saving per LED drive.
You’ll still need a 50 ohm resistor but it will only be dropping around 1 volt and dissipating only 20 mW.
The good news is that many modern LEDs need only a couple of mA to obtain sufficient brightness for “standard” applications.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
@Exocytosis
Here's what you're missing. Your power supply has a given potentional: 5V. That isn't going away. When you put 5V across a component that can't handle it, you MUST do something with that extra potential or you will unbalance the voltage/current ratio in the circuit-- and the component will be damaged (in this case the LED).
The LED is not in and of itself strong-enough to resist the potential applied across it- That is specifically why the datasheet is telling you it can only withstand a potential across it of 2VDC. That's the first thing. The second thing is how much energy you blow through it- in this case, the datasheet apparently says 20mA. Understand that just because a datasheet provides a MAXIMUM current value of 20mA, it does not mean you should actually operate the device at that level (or should you). There will usually be no appreciable difference between 8-10mA and 20mA, depending on color.
The resistor you use is doing a couple of things- it is taking up the slack for the voltage the LED can't handle, and it is limiting the current through the LED to what you designate you want to run through it.
The heat being dissipated by the resistor is NOT excess or left-over, it's actually only the heat being generated by the amount of current you are limiting the LED to. That's an important point. The resistor cannot dissipate energy that isn't flowing through it. And it certainly is NOT carrying the full current of your power-supply.
So, Ohm's Laws says:
R = E / I
R = 5-2 / 0.008
R = 3 / 0.008
R = 375 Ohms
In this case, we'll go with 360 Ohms (it's the closest available).
I = E / R
I = 5-2 / 360
I = 3 / 360
I = 0.0083 (or 8.3mA).
Now that you know how much current is flowing, and what resistor to use, you can calculate how fat a resistor you need, based on what it's dissipating:
Watt's Law is handy here:
P = I E
P = 0.0083 * 3
P = 0.0249 Watts
P = 24.9mW
Now that you know how much energy is dissipated, you can size the resistor. An 8th Watt (1/8th of a Watt) Resistor will dissipate 250mW. For safety, you want a resistor that can handle twice what your Wattage requirements are. Therefore, 24.9*2 = 49.8mW . That small amount is far less than 250mW, so you can use an 8th-Watt resistor.
Hope that helps.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
It's still wasted energy because it's not being turned into useful light.
$endgroup$
– immibis
1 hour ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
One point I would like to mention is the circuits which are meant to be drive LEDs. The constant current circuitry can come in handy to save power when multiple LEDs are needed to be driven.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
That's a really valid point. Past a certain number of resistors it becomes more cost effective in terms of PCB space, component cost, and circuit complexity, to use a constant current mechanism, which only requires perhaps 2 BJTs and 2 resistors.
$endgroup$
– GSLI
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Without the resistor to limit current flow, the LED heats up, draws even more current, and burns out. On high power LEDs, an active circuit to control the current is used instead, acting the same as a switching power supply.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
Your Answer
StackExchange.ifUsing("editor", function ()
return StackExchange.using("schematics", function ()
StackExchange.schematics.init();
);
, "cicuitlab");
StackExchange.ready(function()
var channelOptions =
tags: "".split(" "),
id: "135"
;
initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);
StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function()
// Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled)
StackExchange.using("snippets", function()
createEditor();
);
else
createEditor();
);
function createEditor()
StackExchange.prepareEditor(
heartbeatType: 'answer',
autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
convertImagesToLinks: false,
noModals: true,
showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
reputationToPostImages: null,
bindNavPrevention: true,
postfix: "",
imageUploader:
brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
allowUrls: true
,
onDemand: true,
discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
);
);
Exocytosis is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function ()
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2felectronics.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f452813%2fwill-using-a-resistor-in-series-with-a-led-to-control-its-voltage-increase-the-t%23new-answer', 'question_page');
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
6 Answers
6
active
oldest
votes
6 Answers
6
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
Yes, that resistor wastes power.
If the author is using an LED for an indicator light, then they're wasting a lot more power by their choice of LED. An LED that needs 20mA to show up in a brightly-lit room is typical of 1970's technology. If you shop for higher-brightness LEDs you'll blast your eyeballs out at 20mA, and you'll find yourself stopping the thing down to 1mA or so. One such LED, with a matching resistor, would use 3.3mW at 3.3V, where a 20mA, 1.5V LED alone (never mind the resistor) would use 30mW.
The ultimate way to reduce the circuit power consumption would be to use the most efficient LEDs that you could find, and power them with a switching converter. A decent switching converter will have somewhere between 80% and 95% efficiency, so you'll use between 25 and 5% more power than just the LED. But you'd have to use one per LED (or LED string), and it's hard to justify a super-efficient switching converter for each indicator light.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Yes, that resistor wastes power.
If the author is using an LED for an indicator light, then they're wasting a lot more power by their choice of LED. An LED that needs 20mA to show up in a brightly-lit room is typical of 1970's technology. If you shop for higher-brightness LEDs you'll blast your eyeballs out at 20mA, and you'll find yourself stopping the thing down to 1mA or so. One such LED, with a matching resistor, would use 3.3mW at 3.3V, where a 20mA, 1.5V LED alone (never mind the resistor) would use 30mW.
The ultimate way to reduce the circuit power consumption would be to use the most efficient LEDs that you could find, and power them with a switching converter. A decent switching converter will have somewhere between 80% and 95% efficiency, so you'll use between 25 and 5% more power than just the LED. But you'd have to use one per LED (or LED string), and it's hard to justify a super-efficient switching converter for each indicator light.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Yes, that resistor wastes power.
If the author is using an LED for an indicator light, then they're wasting a lot more power by their choice of LED. An LED that needs 20mA to show up in a brightly-lit room is typical of 1970's technology. If you shop for higher-brightness LEDs you'll blast your eyeballs out at 20mA, and you'll find yourself stopping the thing down to 1mA or so. One such LED, with a matching resistor, would use 3.3mW at 3.3V, where a 20mA, 1.5V LED alone (never mind the resistor) would use 30mW.
The ultimate way to reduce the circuit power consumption would be to use the most efficient LEDs that you could find, and power them with a switching converter. A decent switching converter will have somewhere between 80% and 95% efficiency, so you'll use between 25 and 5% more power than just the LED. But you'd have to use one per LED (or LED string), and it's hard to justify a super-efficient switching converter for each indicator light.
$endgroup$
Yes, that resistor wastes power.
If the author is using an LED for an indicator light, then they're wasting a lot more power by their choice of LED. An LED that needs 20mA to show up in a brightly-lit room is typical of 1970's technology. If you shop for higher-brightness LEDs you'll blast your eyeballs out at 20mA, and you'll find yourself stopping the thing down to 1mA or so. One such LED, with a matching resistor, would use 3.3mW at 3.3V, where a 20mA, 1.5V LED alone (never mind the resistor) would use 30mW.
The ultimate way to reduce the circuit power consumption would be to use the most efficient LEDs that you could find, and power them with a switching converter. A decent switching converter will have somewhere between 80% and 95% efficiency, so you'll use between 25 and 5% more power than just the LED. But you'd have to use one per LED (or LED string), and it's hard to justify a super-efficient switching converter for each indicator light.
answered 7 hours ago
TimWescottTimWescott
11.8k1 gold badge9 silver badges23 bronze badges
11.8k1 gold badge9 silver badges23 bronze badges
add a comment |
add a comment |
$begingroup$
You've got the right idea. Partly.
An LED used with a series resistor does waste the energy dissipated in the resistor. Depending on the voltage from the power supply, you can easily waste more energy in the resistor than you use for the LED.
So far, you are correct.
What I want to correct is the idea that the resistor is there to lower the voltage.
The resistor is there to limit the current.
LEDs are current driven devices. The forward voltage varies with current and temperature.
To get a stable brightness out of an LED, you regulate the current.
You will have noticed that the calculation for the series resistor uses the desired LED current. You take the difference of the supply voltage and the (approximate) forward voltage of the LED, and divide that by the current to find the value for the series resistor.
If you tried to regulate an LED only by regulating the voltage, then you would destroy your LED very quickly. Just below the forward voltage, the LED doesn't light up at all. Just above the forward voltage the LED becomes the next best thing to a short circuit. There is a tiny range in between where it lights up and passes only a little bit of current.
That little range is impossible to hit with just a voltage regulator - it moves with temperature and current - current makes the LED get warmer, and warmer makes the LED conduct more. You would be varying the voltage up and down wildly with some kind of feedback circuit measuring the current.
Or, just regulate the current to begin with. Provide no more current than needed to light your LED at the desired brightness, and let the voltage do as it pleases - the voltage is of no interest.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Your answer is the closest to correct.
$endgroup$
– GSLI
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@GSLI: I posted my answer like nearly two hours after the others. It's still climbing. And if it stays lower voted, well, no biggie.
$endgroup$
– JRE
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
You've got the right idea. Partly.
An LED used with a series resistor does waste the energy dissipated in the resistor. Depending on the voltage from the power supply, you can easily waste more energy in the resistor than you use for the LED.
So far, you are correct.
What I want to correct is the idea that the resistor is there to lower the voltage.
The resistor is there to limit the current.
LEDs are current driven devices. The forward voltage varies with current and temperature.
To get a stable brightness out of an LED, you regulate the current.
You will have noticed that the calculation for the series resistor uses the desired LED current. You take the difference of the supply voltage and the (approximate) forward voltage of the LED, and divide that by the current to find the value for the series resistor.
If you tried to regulate an LED only by regulating the voltage, then you would destroy your LED very quickly. Just below the forward voltage, the LED doesn't light up at all. Just above the forward voltage the LED becomes the next best thing to a short circuit. There is a tiny range in between where it lights up and passes only a little bit of current.
That little range is impossible to hit with just a voltage regulator - it moves with temperature and current - current makes the LED get warmer, and warmer makes the LED conduct more. You would be varying the voltage up and down wildly with some kind of feedback circuit measuring the current.
Or, just regulate the current to begin with. Provide no more current than needed to light your LED at the desired brightness, and let the voltage do as it pleases - the voltage is of no interest.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
Your answer is the closest to correct.
$endgroup$
– GSLI
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@GSLI: I posted my answer like nearly two hours after the others. It's still climbing. And if it stays lower voted, well, no biggie.
$endgroup$
– JRE
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
You've got the right idea. Partly.
An LED used with a series resistor does waste the energy dissipated in the resistor. Depending on the voltage from the power supply, you can easily waste more energy in the resistor than you use for the LED.
So far, you are correct.
What I want to correct is the idea that the resistor is there to lower the voltage.
The resistor is there to limit the current.
LEDs are current driven devices. The forward voltage varies with current and temperature.
To get a stable brightness out of an LED, you regulate the current.
You will have noticed that the calculation for the series resistor uses the desired LED current. You take the difference of the supply voltage and the (approximate) forward voltage of the LED, and divide that by the current to find the value for the series resistor.
If you tried to regulate an LED only by regulating the voltage, then you would destroy your LED very quickly. Just below the forward voltage, the LED doesn't light up at all. Just above the forward voltage the LED becomes the next best thing to a short circuit. There is a tiny range in between where it lights up and passes only a little bit of current.
That little range is impossible to hit with just a voltage regulator - it moves with temperature and current - current makes the LED get warmer, and warmer makes the LED conduct more. You would be varying the voltage up and down wildly with some kind of feedback circuit measuring the current.
Or, just regulate the current to begin with. Provide no more current than needed to light your LED at the desired brightness, and let the voltage do as it pleases - the voltage is of no interest.
$endgroup$
You've got the right idea. Partly.
An LED used with a series resistor does waste the energy dissipated in the resistor. Depending on the voltage from the power supply, you can easily waste more energy in the resistor than you use for the LED.
So far, you are correct.
What I want to correct is the idea that the resistor is there to lower the voltage.
The resistor is there to limit the current.
LEDs are current driven devices. The forward voltage varies with current and temperature.
To get a stable brightness out of an LED, you regulate the current.
You will have noticed that the calculation for the series resistor uses the desired LED current. You take the difference of the supply voltage and the (approximate) forward voltage of the LED, and divide that by the current to find the value for the series resistor.
If you tried to regulate an LED only by regulating the voltage, then you would destroy your LED very quickly. Just below the forward voltage, the LED doesn't light up at all. Just above the forward voltage the LED becomes the next best thing to a short circuit. There is a tiny range in between where it lights up and passes only a little bit of current.
That little range is impossible to hit with just a voltage regulator - it moves with temperature and current - current makes the LED get warmer, and warmer makes the LED conduct more. You would be varying the voltage up and down wildly with some kind of feedback circuit measuring the current.
Or, just regulate the current to begin with. Provide no more current than needed to light your LED at the desired brightness, and let the voltage do as it pleases - the voltage is of no interest.
answered 6 hours ago
JREJRE
27.6k6 gold badges52 silver badges89 bronze badges
27.6k6 gold badges52 silver badges89 bronze badges
$begingroup$
Your answer is the closest to correct.
$endgroup$
– GSLI
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@GSLI: I posted my answer like nearly two hours after the others. It's still climbing. And if it stays lower voted, well, no biggie.
$endgroup$
– JRE
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Your answer is the closest to correct.
$endgroup$
– GSLI
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@GSLI: I posted my answer like nearly two hours after the others. It's still climbing. And if it stays lower voted, well, no biggie.
$endgroup$
– JRE
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
Your answer is the closest to correct.
$endgroup$
– GSLI
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
Your answer is the closest to correct.
$endgroup$
– GSLI
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@GSLI: I posted my answer like nearly two hours after the others. It's still climbing. And if it stays lower voted, well, no biggie.
$endgroup$
– JRE
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
@GSLI: I posted my answer like nearly two hours after the others. It's still climbing. And if it stays lower voted, well, no biggie.
$endgroup$
– JRE
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
No, you are not missing anything. The energy consumed by the resistor is wasted but, if you were contemplating a circuit that used tens or hundreds of LEDs you might consider a buck regulator to step the LED circuit supply voltage down to maybe 3 volts and make a significant net power saving per LED drive.
You’ll still need a 50 ohm resistor but it will only be dropping around 1 volt and dissipating only 20 mW.
The good news is that many modern LEDs need only a couple of mA to obtain sufficient brightness for “standard” applications.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
No, you are not missing anything. The energy consumed by the resistor is wasted but, if you were contemplating a circuit that used tens or hundreds of LEDs you might consider a buck regulator to step the LED circuit supply voltage down to maybe 3 volts and make a significant net power saving per LED drive.
You’ll still need a 50 ohm resistor but it will only be dropping around 1 volt and dissipating only 20 mW.
The good news is that many modern LEDs need only a couple of mA to obtain sufficient brightness for “standard” applications.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
No, you are not missing anything. The energy consumed by the resistor is wasted but, if you were contemplating a circuit that used tens or hundreds of LEDs you might consider a buck regulator to step the LED circuit supply voltage down to maybe 3 volts and make a significant net power saving per LED drive.
You’ll still need a 50 ohm resistor but it will only be dropping around 1 volt and dissipating only 20 mW.
The good news is that many modern LEDs need only a couple of mA to obtain sufficient brightness for “standard” applications.
$endgroup$
No, you are not missing anything. The energy consumed by the resistor is wasted but, if you were contemplating a circuit that used tens or hundreds of LEDs you might consider a buck regulator to step the LED circuit supply voltage down to maybe 3 volts and make a significant net power saving per LED drive.
You’ll still need a 50 ohm resistor but it will only be dropping around 1 volt and dissipating only 20 mW.
The good news is that many modern LEDs need only a couple of mA to obtain sufficient brightness for “standard” applications.
answered 8 hours ago
Andy akaAndy aka
251k11 gold badges193 silver badges447 bronze badges
251k11 gold badges193 silver badges447 bronze badges
add a comment |
add a comment |
$begingroup$
@Exocytosis
Here's what you're missing. Your power supply has a given potentional: 5V. That isn't going away. When you put 5V across a component that can't handle it, you MUST do something with that extra potential or you will unbalance the voltage/current ratio in the circuit-- and the component will be damaged (in this case the LED).
The LED is not in and of itself strong-enough to resist the potential applied across it- That is specifically why the datasheet is telling you it can only withstand a potential across it of 2VDC. That's the first thing. The second thing is how much energy you blow through it- in this case, the datasheet apparently says 20mA. Understand that just because a datasheet provides a MAXIMUM current value of 20mA, it does not mean you should actually operate the device at that level (or should you). There will usually be no appreciable difference between 8-10mA and 20mA, depending on color.
The resistor you use is doing a couple of things- it is taking up the slack for the voltage the LED can't handle, and it is limiting the current through the LED to what you designate you want to run through it.
The heat being dissipated by the resistor is NOT excess or left-over, it's actually only the heat being generated by the amount of current you are limiting the LED to. That's an important point. The resistor cannot dissipate energy that isn't flowing through it. And it certainly is NOT carrying the full current of your power-supply.
So, Ohm's Laws says:
R = E / I
R = 5-2 / 0.008
R = 3 / 0.008
R = 375 Ohms
In this case, we'll go with 360 Ohms (it's the closest available).
I = E / R
I = 5-2 / 360
I = 3 / 360
I = 0.0083 (or 8.3mA).
Now that you know how much current is flowing, and what resistor to use, you can calculate how fat a resistor you need, based on what it's dissipating:
Watt's Law is handy here:
P = I E
P = 0.0083 * 3
P = 0.0249 Watts
P = 24.9mW
Now that you know how much energy is dissipated, you can size the resistor. An 8th Watt (1/8th of a Watt) Resistor will dissipate 250mW. For safety, you want a resistor that can handle twice what your Wattage requirements are. Therefore, 24.9*2 = 49.8mW . That small amount is far less than 250mW, so you can use an 8th-Watt resistor.
Hope that helps.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
It's still wasted energy because it's not being turned into useful light.
$endgroup$
– immibis
1 hour ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
@Exocytosis
Here's what you're missing. Your power supply has a given potentional: 5V. That isn't going away. When you put 5V across a component that can't handle it, you MUST do something with that extra potential or you will unbalance the voltage/current ratio in the circuit-- and the component will be damaged (in this case the LED).
The LED is not in and of itself strong-enough to resist the potential applied across it- That is specifically why the datasheet is telling you it can only withstand a potential across it of 2VDC. That's the first thing. The second thing is how much energy you blow through it- in this case, the datasheet apparently says 20mA. Understand that just because a datasheet provides a MAXIMUM current value of 20mA, it does not mean you should actually operate the device at that level (or should you). There will usually be no appreciable difference between 8-10mA and 20mA, depending on color.
The resistor you use is doing a couple of things- it is taking up the slack for the voltage the LED can't handle, and it is limiting the current through the LED to what you designate you want to run through it.
The heat being dissipated by the resistor is NOT excess or left-over, it's actually only the heat being generated by the amount of current you are limiting the LED to. That's an important point. The resistor cannot dissipate energy that isn't flowing through it. And it certainly is NOT carrying the full current of your power-supply.
So, Ohm's Laws says:
R = E / I
R = 5-2 / 0.008
R = 3 / 0.008
R = 375 Ohms
In this case, we'll go with 360 Ohms (it's the closest available).
I = E / R
I = 5-2 / 360
I = 3 / 360
I = 0.0083 (or 8.3mA).
Now that you know how much current is flowing, and what resistor to use, you can calculate how fat a resistor you need, based on what it's dissipating:
Watt's Law is handy here:
P = I E
P = 0.0083 * 3
P = 0.0249 Watts
P = 24.9mW
Now that you know how much energy is dissipated, you can size the resistor. An 8th Watt (1/8th of a Watt) Resistor will dissipate 250mW. For safety, you want a resistor that can handle twice what your Wattage requirements are. Therefore, 24.9*2 = 49.8mW . That small amount is far less than 250mW, so you can use an 8th-Watt resistor.
Hope that helps.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
It's still wasted energy because it's not being turned into useful light.
$endgroup$
– immibis
1 hour ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
@Exocytosis
Here's what you're missing. Your power supply has a given potentional: 5V. That isn't going away. When you put 5V across a component that can't handle it, you MUST do something with that extra potential or you will unbalance the voltage/current ratio in the circuit-- and the component will be damaged (in this case the LED).
The LED is not in and of itself strong-enough to resist the potential applied across it- That is specifically why the datasheet is telling you it can only withstand a potential across it of 2VDC. That's the first thing. The second thing is how much energy you blow through it- in this case, the datasheet apparently says 20mA. Understand that just because a datasheet provides a MAXIMUM current value of 20mA, it does not mean you should actually operate the device at that level (or should you). There will usually be no appreciable difference between 8-10mA and 20mA, depending on color.
The resistor you use is doing a couple of things- it is taking up the slack for the voltage the LED can't handle, and it is limiting the current through the LED to what you designate you want to run through it.
The heat being dissipated by the resistor is NOT excess or left-over, it's actually only the heat being generated by the amount of current you are limiting the LED to. That's an important point. The resistor cannot dissipate energy that isn't flowing through it. And it certainly is NOT carrying the full current of your power-supply.
So, Ohm's Laws says:
R = E / I
R = 5-2 / 0.008
R = 3 / 0.008
R = 375 Ohms
In this case, we'll go with 360 Ohms (it's the closest available).
I = E / R
I = 5-2 / 360
I = 3 / 360
I = 0.0083 (or 8.3mA).
Now that you know how much current is flowing, and what resistor to use, you can calculate how fat a resistor you need, based on what it's dissipating:
Watt's Law is handy here:
P = I E
P = 0.0083 * 3
P = 0.0249 Watts
P = 24.9mW
Now that you know how much energy is dissipated, you can size the resistor. An 8th Watt (1/8th of a Watt) Resistor will dissipate 250mW. For safety, you want a resistor that can handle twice what your Wattage requirements are. Therefore, 24.9*2 = 49.8mW . That small amount is far less than 250mW, so you can use an 8th-Watt resistor.
Hope that helps.
$endgroup$
@Exocytosis
Here's what you're missing. Your power supply has a given potentional: 5V. That isn't going away. When you put 5V across a component that can't handle it, you MUST do something with that extra potential or you will unbalance the voltage/current ratio in the circuit-- and the component will be damaged (in this case the LED).
The LED is not in and of itself strong-enough to resist the potential applied across it- That is specifically why the datasheet is telling you it can only withstand a potential across it of 2VDC. That's the first thing. The second thing is how much energy you blow through it- in this case, the datasheet apparently says 20mA. Understand that just because a datasheet provides a MAXIMUM current value of 20mA, it does not mean you should actually operate the device at that level (or should you). There will usually be no appreciable difference between 8-10mA and 20mA, depending on color.
The resistor you use is doing a couple of things- it is taking up the slack for the voltage the LED can't handle, and it is limiting the current through the LED to what you designate you want to run through it.
The heat being dissipated by the resistor is NOT excess or left-over, it's actually only the heat being generated by the amount of current you are limiting the LED to. That's an important point. The resistor cannot dissipate energy that isn't flowing through it. And it certainly is NOT carrying the full current of your power-supply.
So, Ohm's Laws says:
R = E / I
R = 5-2 / 0.008
R = 3 / 0.008
R = 375 Ohms
In this case, we'll go with 360 Ohms (it's the closest available).
I = E / R
I = 5-2 / 360
I = 3 / 360
I = 0.0083 (or 8.3mA).
Now that you know how much current is flowing, and what resistor to use, you can calculate how fat a resistor you need, based on what it's dissipating:
Watt's Law is handy here:
P = I E
P = 0.0083 * 3
P = 0.0249 Watts
P = 24.9mW
Now that you know how much energy is dissipated, you can size the resistor. An 8th Watt (1/8th of a Watt) Resistor will dissipate 250mW. For safety, you want a resistor that can handle twice what your Wattage requirements are. Therefore, 24.9*2 = 49.8mW . That small amount is far less than 250mW, so you can use an 8th-Watt resistor.
Hope that helps.
answered 5 hours ago
GSLIGSLI
662 bronze badges
662 bronze badges
$begingroup$
It's still wasted energy because it's not being turned into useful light.
$endgroup$
– immibis
1 hour ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
It's still wasted energy because it's not being turned into useful light.
$endgroup$
– immibis
1 hour ago
$begingroup$
It's still wasted energy because it's not being turned into useful light.
$endgroup$
– immibis
1 hour ago
$begingroup$
It's still wasted energy because it's not being turned into useful light.
$endgroup$
– immibis
1 hour ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
One point I would like to mention is the circuits which are meant to be drive LEDs. The constant current circuitry can come in handy to save power when multiple LEDs are needed to be driven.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
That's a really valid point. Past a certain number of resistors it becomes more cost effective in terms of PCB space, component cost, and circuit complexity, to use a constant current mechanism, which only requires perhaps 2 BJTs and 2 resistors.
$endgroup$
– GSLI
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
One point I would like to mention is the circuits which are meant to be drive LEDs. The constant current circuitry can come in handy to save power when multiple LEDs are needed to be driven.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
That's a really valid point. Past a certain number of resistors it becomes more cost effective in terms of PCB space, component cost, and circuit complexity, to use a constant current mechanism, which only requires perhaps 2 BJTs and 2 resistors.
$endgroup$
– GSLI
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
One point I would like to mention is the circuits which are meant to be drive LEDs. The constant current circuitry can come in handy to save power when multiple LEDs are needed to be driven.
$endgroup$
One point I would like to mention is the circuits which are meant to be drive LEDs. The constant current circuitry can come in handy to save power when multiple LEDs are needed to be driven.
answered 7 hours ago
UmarUmar
3,7373 gold badges12 silver badges31 bronze badges
3,7373 gold badges12 silver badges31 bronze badges
$begingroup$
That's a really valid point. Past a certain number of resistors it becomes more cost effective in terms of PCB space, component cost, and circuit complexity, to use a constant current mechanism, which only requires perhaps 2 BJTs and 2 resistors.
$endgroup$
– GSLI
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
That's a really valid point. Past a certain number of resistors it becomes more cost effective in terms of PCB space, component cost, and circuit complexity, to use a constant current mechanism, which only requires perhaps 2 BJTs and 2 resistors.
$endgroup$
– GSLI
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
That's a really valid point. Past a certain number of resistors it becomes more cost effective in terms of PCB space, component cost, and circuit complexity, to use a constant current mechanism, which only requires perhaps 2 BJTs and 2 resistors.
$endgroup$
– GSLI
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
That's a really valid point. Past a certain number of resistors it becomes more cost effective in terms of PCB space, component cost, and circuit complexity, to use a constant current mechanism, which only requires perhaps 2 BJTs and 2 resistors.
$endgroup$
– GSLI
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Without the resistor to limit current flow, the LED heats up, draws even more current, and burns out. On high power LEDs, an active circuit to control the current is used instead, acting the same as a switching power supply.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Without the resistor to limit current flow, the LED heats up, draws even more current, and burns out. On high power LEDs, an active circuit to control the current is used instead, acting the same as a switching power supply.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Without the resistor to limit current flow, the LED heats up, draws even more current, and burns out. On high power LEDs, an active circuit to control the current is used instead, acting the same as a switching power supply.
$endgroup$
Without the resistor to limit current flow, the LED heats up, draws even more current, and burns out. On high power LEDs, an active circuit to control the current is used instead, acting the same as a switching power supply.
answered 7 hours ago
CrossRoadsCrossRoads
2,6682 silver badges9 bronze badges
2,6682 silver badges9 bronze badges
add a comment |
add a comment |
Exocytosis is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Exocytosis is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Exocytosis is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Exocytosis is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Thanks for contributing an answer to Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange!
- Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!
But avoid …
- Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.
- Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.
Use MathJax to format equations. MathJax reference.
To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function ()
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2felectronics.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f452813%2fwill-using-a-resistor-in-series-with-a-led-to-control-its-voltage-increase-the-t%23new-answer', 'question_page');
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown