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Attach wall “peg” with dowel screw
What is the weight capacity of your typical 2 1/2“ drywall screw when driven 1 1/2” into a stud?What are the proper materials and method to hang heavy-duty shelves in a garage for storage?How do I prevent doors on a media cabinet from sagging?Remove a screw with a broken headHow can I attach to drywall with aluminum studs?Heavy Duty Floating Shelves for KitchenWhat knots/hitches should I use to attach a log to a screw eye?Can I use these brackets to make wall mounted bookshelves?Identify screw and dowel on this cabinet doorCan I use slot shelving in a wooden shed?
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I'm building a cat climbing wall, and plan to have a series of large "pegs" as steps. My plan is to use 1-foot lengths of landscape timber (basically a 4" diameter log) and attach directly to the wall studs using one 3/8" x 3" dowel screw for each peg. All shelf brackets I've seen have a lower support brace and more than one screw connecting to the wall, so I'm slightly concerned that one screw won't be enough to support the cantilevered weight of a cat (~15 pounds, plus dynamic forces). Is this realistic, or will the screw pull out, or will the log put too much pressure on the drywall, or any other reason why this would be a bad idea? Should I just put the screw off-center toward the top of each log so there's more of a lower brace, or use bigger dowel screws, or will I need a proper shelf bracket to support the peg?
drywall screws studs shelving
add a comment |
I'm building a cat climbing wall, and plan to have a series of large "pegs" as steps. My plan is to use 1-foot lengths of landscape timber (basically a 4" diameter log) and attach directly to the wall studs using one 3/8" x 3" dowel screw for each peg. All shelf brackets I've seen have a lower support brace and more than one screw connecting to the wall, so I'm slightly concerned that one screw won't be enough to support the cantilevered weight of a cat (~15 pounds, plus dynamic forces). Is this realistic, or will the screw pull out, or will the log put too much pressure on the drywall, or any other reason why this would be a bad idea? Should I just put the screw off-center toward the top of each log so there's more of a lower brace, or use bigger dowel screws, or will I need a proper shelf bracket to support the peg?
drywall screws studs shelving
1
What's the diameter and length of the screws?
– isherwood
8 hours ago
1
Have you considered building a whole unit with all its steps and whatever else you want on sheet of 3/4 plywood and then just attach the plywood to the wall with screws into the studs. Sand and Paint it nice and neat and it can be removed or taken with you if you move to a new place.
– Alaska Man
5 hours ago
add a comment |
I'm building a cat climbing wall, and plan to have a series of large "pegs" as steps. My plan is to use 1-foot lengths of landscape timber (basically a 4" diameter log) and attach directly to the wall studs using one 3/8" x 3" dowel screw for each peg. All shelf brackets I've seen have a lower support brace and more than one screw connecting to the wall, so I'm slightly concerned that one screw won't be enough to support the cantilevered weight of a cat (~15 pounds, plus dynamic forces). Is this realistic, or will the screw pull out, or will the log put too much pressure on the drywall, or any other reason why this would be a bad idea? Should I just put the screw off-center toward the top of each log so there's more of a lower brace, or use bigger dowel screws, or will I need a proper shelf bracket to support the peg?
drywall screws studs shelving
I'm building a cat climbing wall, and plan to have a series of large "pegs" as steps. My plan is to use 1-foot lengths of landscape timber (basically a 4" diameter log) and attach directly to the wall studs using one 3/8" x 3" dowel screw for each peg. All shelf brackets I've seen have a lower support brace and more than one screw connecting to the wall, so I'm slightly concerned that one screw won't be enough to support the cantilevered weight of a cat (~15 pounds, plus dynamic forces). Is this realistic, or will the screw pull out, or will the log put too much pressure on the drywall, or any other reason why this would be a bad idea? Should I just put the screw off-center toward the top of each log so there's more of a lower brace, or use bigger dowel screws, or will I need a proper shelf bracket to support the peg?
drywall screws studs shelving
drywall screws studs shelving
edited 8 hours ago
Nuclear Wang
asked 8 hours ago
Nuclear WangNuclear Wang
1386 bronze badges
1386 bronze badges
1
What's the diameter and length of the screws?
– isherwood
8 hours ago
1
Have you considered building a whole unit with all its steps and whatever else you want on sheet of 3/4 plywood and then just attach the plywood to the wall with screws into the studs. Sand and Paint it nice and neat and it can be removed or taken with you if you move to a new place.
– Alaska Man
5 hours ago
add a comment |
1
What's the diameter and length of the screws?
– isherwood
8 hours ago
1
Have you considered building a whole unit with all its steps and whatever else you want on sheet of 3/4 plywood and then just attach the plywood to the wall with screws into the studs. Sand and Paint it nice and neat and it can be removed or taken with you if you move to a new place.
– Alaska Man
5 hours ago
1
1
What's the diameter and length of the screws?
– isherwood
8 hours ago
What's the diameter and length of the screws?
– isherwood
8 hours ago
1
1
Have you considered building a whole unit with all its steps and whatever else you want on sheet of 3/4 plywood and then just attach the plywood to the wall with screws into the studs. Sand and Paint it nice and neat and it can be removed or taken with you if you move to a new place.
– Alaska Man
5 hours ago
Have you considered building a whole unit with all its steps and whatever else you want on sheet of 3/4 plywood and then just attach the plywood to the wall with screws into the studs. Sand and Paint it nice and neat and it can be removed or taken with you if you move to a new place.
– Alaska Man
5 hours ago
add a comment |
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
Assuming that:
- the screws are at least 1/4" in diameter
- they penetrate at least 1" into the stud
- the timber ends up snug to the drywall
... this should work fine. The key is that installation leaves the timbers with no gap to the drywall that would allow movement. If there's room for movement, the drywall will eventually be damaged and the screws could work loose.
Yes, it would do to install the dowel screws closer to the top of the timber, say 1" down, to reduce pressure on the lower edge of the cut. You might put waxed paper behind the timbers while you thread them in to act as a lubricant and to protect the wall.
You could simplify matters by installing each timber segment on a backer board (say a 16" segment of 1x6) using three or four 2-1/2" screws, then simply mount those to the studs over the drywall. The torque load on the timbers would be transferred to and distributed by the backer boards rather than through drywall, which is quite soft.
add a comment |
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Assuming that:
- the screws are at least 1/4" in diameter
- they penetrate at least 1" into the stud
- the timber ends up snug to the drywall
... this should work fine. The key is that installation leaves the timbers with no gap to the drywall that would allow movement. If there's room for movement, the drywall will eventually be damaged and the screws could work loose.
Yes, it would do to install the dowel screws closer to the top of the timber, say 1" down, to reduce pressure on the lower edge of the cut. You might put waxed paper behind the timbers while you thread them in to act as a lubricant and to protect the wall.
You could simplify matters by installing each timber segment on a backer board (say a 16" segment of 1x6) using three or four 2-1/2" screws, then simply mount those to the studs over the drywall. The torque load on the timbers would be transferred to and distributed by the backer boards rather than through drywall, which is quite soft.
add a comment |
Assuming that:
- the screws are at least 1/4" in diameter
- they penetrate at least 1" into the stud
- the timber ends up snug to the drywall
... this should work fine. The key is that installation leaves the timbers with no gap to the drywall that would allow movement. If there's room for movement, the drywall will eventually be damaged and the screws could work loose.
Yes, it would do to install the dowel screws closer to the top of the timber, say 1" down, to reduce pressure on the lower edge of the cut. You might put waxed paper behind the timbers while you thread them in to act as a lubricant and to protect the wall.
You could simplify matters by installing each timber segment on a backer board (say a 16" segment of 1x6) using three or four 2-1/2" screws, then simply mount those to the studs over the drywall. The torque load on the timbers would be transferred to and distributed by the backer boards rather than through drywall, which is quite soft.
add a comment |
Assuming that:
- the screws are at least 1/4" in diameter
- they penetrate at least 1" into the stud
- the timber ends up snug to the drywall
... this should work fine. The key is that installation leaves the timbers with no gap to the drywall that would allow movement. If there's room for movement, the drywall will eventually be damaged and the screws could work loose.
Yes, it would do to install the dowel screws closer to the top of the timber, say 1" down, to reduce pressure on the lower edge of the cut. You might put waxed paper behind the timbers while you thread them in to act as a lubricant and to protect the wall.
You could simplify matters by installing each timber segment on a backer board (say a 16" segment of 1x6) using three or four 2-1/2" screws, then simply mount those to the studs over the drywall. The torque load on the timbers would be transferred to and distributed by the backer boards rather than through drywall, which is quite soft.
Assuming that:
- the screws are at least 1/4" in diameter
- they penetrate at least 1" into the stud
- the timber ends up snug to the drywall
... this should work fine. The key is that installation leaves the timbers with no gap to the drywall that would allow movement. If there's room for movement, the drywall will eventually be damaged and the screws could work loose.
Yes, it would do to install the dowel screws closer to the top of the timber, say 1" down, to reduce pressure on the lower edge of the cut. You might put waxed paper behind the timbers while you thread them in to act as a lubricant and to protect the wall.
You could simplify matters by installing each timber segment on a backer board (say a 16" segment of 1x6) using three or four 2-1/2" screws, then simply mount those to the studs over the drywall. The torque load on the timbers would be transferred to and distributed by the backer boards rather than through drywall, which is quite soft.
edited 8 hours ago
answered 8 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
57.3k5 gold badges68 silver badges150 bronze badges
57.3k5 gold badges68 silver badges150 bronze badges
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1
What's the diameter and length of the screws?
– isherwood
8 hours ago
1
Have you considered building a whole unit with all its steps and whatever else you want on sheet of 3/4 plywood and then just attach the plywood to the wall with screws into the studs. Sand and Paint it nice and neat and it can be removed or taken with you if you move to a new place.
– Alaska Man
5 hours ago