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Is kapton suitable for use as high voltage insulation?
Reflow oven AC cable splicing insulation and thermocouple readingsCan I use masking tape for 12V max insulation?High Voltage Supply UseWhat is electrical insulation tape officially for?ACS712 for high voltageHigh temperature high voltage electrical insulation under waterIsolation for TO-247 Leads at High Voltage (1000V)How to insulate a high voltage PCB trace?Transformer Insulation - High Voltage can Jump Through Ferrite Core?Why does wire insulation have a working voltage and peak voltage?
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$begingroup$
I need to solder together some wires which will eventually run at about five kV, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to insulate the exposed leads. Heat shrink (my usual go-to) is apparently not rated above about 600 V. Kapton seems to be rated much higher (100's of kV/mm), so I am thinking of wrapping the leads in several layers of this. Given the high voltage hazard, I'm looking for advice: Would this be a good solution, or is there a better way?
high-voltage insulation
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
I need to solder together some wires which will eventually run at about five kV, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to insulate the exposed leads. Heat shrink (my usual go-to) is apparently not rated above about 600 V. Kapton seems to be rated much higher (100's of kV/mm), so I am thinking of wrapping the leads in several layers of this. Given the high voltage hazard, I'm looking for advice: Would this be a good solution, or is there a better way?
high-voltage insulation
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
At that level, partial discharge due to your voltage division between the insulator material and surrounding air will most likley dominate anyway. Is the high voltage continuous?
$endgroup$
– winny
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
I need to solder together some wires which will eventually run at about five kV, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to insulate the exposed leads. Heat shrink (my usual go-to) is apparently not rated above about 600 V. Kapton seems to be rated much higher (100's of kV/mm), so I am thinking of wrapping the leads in several layers of this. Given the high voltage hazard, I'm looking for advice: Would this be a good solution, or is there a better way?
high-voltage insulation
$endgroup$
I need to solder together some wires which will eventually run at about five kV, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to insulate the exposed leads. Heat shrink (my usual go-to) is apparently not rated above about 600 V. Kapton seems to be rated much higher (100's of kV/mm), so I am thinking of wrapping the leads in several layers of this. Given the high voltage hazard, I'm looking for advice: Would this be a good solution, or is there a better way?
high-voltage insulation
high-voltage insulation
asked 8 hours ago
YlyYly
1163 bronze badges
1163 bronze badges
$begingroup$
At that level, partial discharge due to your voltage division between the insulator material and surrounding air will most likley dominate anyway. Is the high voltage continuous?
$endgroup$
– winny
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
At that level, partial discharge due to your voltage division between the insulator material and surrounding air will most likley dominate anyway. Is the high voltage continuous?
$endgroup$
– winny
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
At that level, partial discharge due to your voltage division between the insulator material and surrounding air will most likley dominate anyway. Is the high voltage continuous?
$endgroup$
– winny
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
At that level, partial discharge due to your voltage division between the insulator material and surrounding air will most likley dominate anyway. Is the high voltage continuous?
$endgroup$
– winny
5 hours ago
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
Kapton is not appropriate to wrap cables: it's relatively stiff, and thus won't be conformal to the cable, which leaves air gaps, which have lower insulation per mm.
So, even multiple layers of heat shrink would be better.
At 5 kV, I'd start by trying to keep cables mechanically separated far enough that the air distance ensures sufficient isolation, even in the absence of any dedicated isolating material.
Use high-voltage cables, which come with the necessary isolation. Don't connect them at the same distance – cut one conductor shorter than the other, so that you don't break isolation in close vicinity.
There's isolating potting that you can use to fixate a solder joint.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
KAPTON (tm) is excellent (Polyamide) But must be sealed from humidity to prevent creepage.
Rubber insulated wire is best.
Exposed terminations can be somewhat sealed if dry when applied with RTV Silicone to 25kV/cm safely from high impedance sources.
Ignition wiring uses Rubber insulation but now is all carbon, but you can still get copper wire. Rated for spark plugs.
You MUST be aware of ARC FLASH protection gear if high energy source is being tested.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
silicone surface to target leakage is why bathtub caulking turns black inside on the wall. Same thing for ionic flow
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Kapton is a really good insulative medium and aircraft cable use to be wrapped in it. However... Kapton is susceptible to embrittlement over time
https://www.mitrecaasd.org/atsrac/intrusive/Chapter_6.pdf
https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/ac25-16.pdf
https://www.dfrsolutions.com/hubfs/DfR_Solutions_Website/Resources-Archived/Publications/2002-2004/2004_AgingPolyimide_Hillman-Murray.pdf
If it is to encapsulate the solder connections then yes you could rely on Kapton or go for some form of potting to encapsulate the joint
$endgroup$
add a comment |
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
$begingroup$
Kapton is not appropriate to wrap cables: it's relatively stiff, and thus won't be conformal to the cable, which leaves air gaps, which have lower insulation per mm.
So, even multiple layers of heat shrink would be better.
At 5 kV, I'd start by trying to keep cables mechanically separated far enough that the air distance ensures sufficient isolation, even in the absence of any dedicated isolating material.
Use high-voltage cables, which come with the necessary isolation. Don't connect them at the same distance – cut one conductor shorter than the other, so that you don't break isolation in close vicinity.
There's isolating potting that you can use to fixate a solder joint.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Kapton is not appropriate to wrap cables: it's relatively stiff, and thus won't be conformal to the cable, which leaves air gaps, which have lower insulation per mm.
So, even multiple layers of heat shrink would be better.
At 5 kV, I'd start by trying to keep cables mechanically separated far enough that the air distance ensures sufficient isolation, even in the absence of any dedicated isolating material.
Use high-voltage cables, which come with the necessary isolation. Don't connect them at the same distance – cut one conductor shorter than the other, so that you don't break isolation in close vicinity.
There's isolating potting that you can use to fixate a solder joint.
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Kapton is not appropriate to wrap cables: it's relatively stiff, and thus won't be conformal to the cable, which leaves air gaps, which have lower insulation per mm.
So, even multiple layers of heat shrink would be better.
At 5 kV, I'd start by trying to keep cables mechanically separated far enough that the air distance ensures sufficient isolation, even in the absence of any dedicated isolating material.
Use high-voltage cables, which come with the necessary isolation. Don't connect them at the same distance – cut one conductor shorter than the other, so that you don't break isolation in close vicinity.
There's isolating potting that you can use to fixate a solder joint.
$endgroup$
Kapton is not appropriate to wrap cables: it's relatively stiff, and thus won't be conformal to the cable, which leaves air gaps, which have lower insulation per mm.
So, even multiple layers of heat shrink would be better.
At 5 kV, I'd start by trying to keep cables mechanically separated far enough that the air distance ensures sufficient isolation, even in the absence of any dedicated isolating material.
Use high-voltage cables, which come with the necessary isolation. Don't connect them at the same distance – cut one conductor shorter than the other, so that you don't break isolation in close vicinity.
There's isolating potting that you can use to fixate a solder joint.
answered 8 hours ago
Marcus MüllerMarcus Müller
38.2k3 gold badges64 silver badges105 bronze badges
38.2k3 gold badges64 silver badges105 bronze badges
add a comment |
add a comment |
$begingroup$
KAPTON (tm) is excellent (Polyamide) But must be sealed from humidity to prevent creepage.
Rubber insulated wire is best.
Exposed terminations can be somewhat sealed if dry when applied with RTV Silicone to 25kV/cm safely from high impedance sources.
Ignition wiring uses Rubber insulation but now is all carbon, but you can still get copper wire. Rated for spark plugs.
You MUST be aware of ARC FLASH protection gear if high energy source is being tested.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
silicone surface to target leakage is why bathtub caulking turns black inside on the wall. Same thing for ionic flow
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
KAPTON (tm) is excellent (Polyamide) But must be sealed from humidity to prevent creepage.
Rubber insulated wire is best.
Exposed terminations can be somewhat sealed if dry when applied with RTV Silicone to 25kV/cm safely from high impedance sources.
Ignition wiring uses Rubber insulation but now is all carbon, but you can still get copper wire. Rated for spark plugs.
You MUST be aware of ARC FLASH protection gear if high energy source is being tested.
$endgroup$
$begingroup$
silicone surface to target leakage is why bathtub caulking turns black inside on the wall. Same thing for ionic flow
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
KAPTON (tm) is excellent (Polyamide) But must be sealed from humidity to prevent creepage.
Rubber insulated wire is best.
Exposed terminations can be somewhat sealed if dry when applied with RTV Silicone to 25kV/cm safely from high impedance sources.
Ignition wiring uses Rubber insulation but now is all carbon, but you can still get copper wire. Rated for spark plugs.
You MUST be aware of ARC FLASH protection gear if high energy source is being tested.
$endgroup$
KAPTON (tm) is excellent (Polyamide) But must be sealed from humidity to prevent creepage.
Rubber insulated wire is best.
Exposed terminations can be somewhat sealed if dry when applied with RTV Silicone to 25kV/cm safely from high impedance sources.
Ignition wiring uses Rubber insulation but now is all carbon, but you can still get copper wire. Rated for spark plugs.
You MUST be aware of ARC FLASH protection gear if high energy source is being tested.
answered 7 hours ago
Sunnyskyguy EE75Sunnyskyguy EE75
78.7k2 gold badges30 silver badges114 bronze badges
78.7k2 gold badges30 silver badges114 bronze badges
$begingroup$
silicone surface to target leakage is why bathtub caulking turns black inside on the wall. Same thing for ionic flow
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
silicone surface to target leakage is why bathtub caulking turns black inside on the wall. Same thing for ionic flow
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
silicone surface to target leakage is why bathtub caulking turns black inside on the wall. Same thing for ionic flow
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
5 hours ago
$begingroup$
silicone surface to target leakage is why bathtub caulking turns black inside on the wall. Same thing for ionic flow
$endgroup$
– Sunnyskyguy EE75
5 hours ago
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Kapton is a really good insulative medium and aircraft cable use to be wrapped in it. However... Kapton is susceptible to embrittlement over time
https://www.mitrecaasd.org/atsrac/intrusive/Chapter_6.pdf
https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/ac25-16.pdf
https://www.dfrsolutions.com/hubfs/DfR_Solutions_Website/Resources-Archived/Publications/2002-2004/2004_AgingPolyimide_Hillman-Murray.pdf
If it is to encapsulate the solder connections then yes you could rely on Kapton or go for some form of potting to encapsulate the joint
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Kapton is a really good insulative medium and aircraft cable use to be wrapped in it. However... Kapton is susceptible to embrittlement over time
https://www.mitrecaasd.org/atsrac/intrusive/Chapter_6.pdf
https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/ac25-16.pdf
https://www.dfrsolutions.com/hubfs/DfR_Solutions_Website/Resources-Archived/Publications/2002-2004/2004_AgingPolyimide_Hillman-Murray.pdf
If it is to encapsulate the solder connections then yes you could rely on Kapton or go for some form of potting to encapsulate the joint
$endgroup$
add a comment |
$begingroup$
Kapton is a really good insulative medium and aircraft cable use to be wrapped in it. However... Kapton is susceptible to embrittlement over time
https://www.mitrecaasd.org/atsrac/intrusive/Chapter_6.pdf
https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/ac25-16.pdf
https://www.dfrsolutions.com/hubfs/DfR_Solutions_Website/Resources-Archived/Publications/2002-2004/2004_AgingPolyimide_Hillman-Murray.pdf
If it is to encapsulate the solder connections then yes you could rely on Kapton or go for some form of potting to encapsulate the joint
$endgroup$
Kapton is a really good insulative medium and aircraft cable use to be wrapped in it. However... Kapton is susceptible to embrittlement over time
https://www.mitrecaasd.org/atsrac/intrusive/Chapter_6.pdf
https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/ac25-16.pdf
https://www.dfrsolutions.com/hubfs/DfR_Solutions_Website/Resources-Archived/Publications/2002-2004/2004_AgingPolyimide_Hillman-Murray.pdf
If it is to encapsulate the solder connections then yes you could rely on Kapton or go for some form of potting to encapsulate the joint
answered 7 hours ago
JonRBJonRB
14.3k2 gold badges21 silver badges41 bronze badges
14.3k2 gold badges21 silver badges41 bronze badges
add a comment |
add a comment |
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$begingroup$
At that level, partial discharge due to your voltage division between the insulator material and surrounding air will most likley dominate anyway. Is the high voltage continuous?
$endgroup$
– winny
5 hours ago