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Simply put, what you get by paying more is better features (more gear ratios, hydraulic brakes, better suspension), less weight, and better durability and reliability.

It's pretty obvious that stronger and lighter materials cost more. Better suspension and gear trains require more sophisticated designs with more components with lower tolerances, which cost more to design, test and manufacture.

The bikes you reference are at the bottom end of the price spectrum. These are pretty much intended for people who want a bike that looks like a mountain bike but will only be used on prepared trails. The warning is there because they are not durable enough for real trail use, and the manufacturer won't be liable if a bike fails and someone gets hurt.

At the price point you are looking at, you certainly will get a better bike if you pay more. It will be lighter, it will shift gears and stop better, and it will run more smoothly on rough trails. Like you said, there is always a better bike, more expensive bike. What you need to do is determine what riding you are realistically going to do and if these bikes are going to be suitable. If they are, then you are OK.

Let's compare the specific bikes you linked: the XC 100 to the 560. The language used on the product page is quite different, because they're targeting a different audience, but we need to scroll down to see the concrete differences:

• The more expensive XC 100 is roughly one kilogramme lighter. That's a bit less than a 10% weight saving, but other things being equal, lighter is generally more expensive


• the XC 100 lists two distinct aluminium alloys used in its frame. Whether or not we care about the fine metallurgical differences, it's going to be more expensive to manufacture


• the XC 100 comes with the SRAM NX EAGLE groupset, and the 560 with the SRAM X5. That's easily a USD200 difference at list price

There are lots of small finishing kit changes as well (different bars, seatpost, grips, saddle etc.) which aren't listed in enough detail to compare. Generally though, the less expensive bike will have less expensive finishing kit too. Whether it is actually worse for your purposes, or less durable, is however debatable.

The 560 does have a review from someone whose chainstay cracked; this part of the frame is likely the stronger and more expensive Al 6013 alloy on the XC 100.

Now, whether you want the stronger rear triangle, the ~1Kg weight saving or the more expensive groupset, and whether they're worth the price difference to you - well, that's up to you.

Navigating rougher trails is not necessarily the same as throwing your bike around them at speed, and the 560 (which seems more accurately described as a mountain bike-styled tourer) may be fine if you keep the impact forces down.

The difference is the same as with any other consumer good like a knife, a blue jeans or a TV set:

• When it is new it usually looks and feels good.


• Expensive ones still feel good next year.


• Even the cheapest TV will still show you all programs in color, even the cheapest jeans will cover your behind, and even the cheapest knife will cut your bread. But will it be fun?


• You can spend almost unlimited money if you want to (and have it).


• The benefit from paying more is roughly logarithmic.


• You are less likely to be disappointed with an expensive model, and it will probably last longer.


• Brand names cost extra.


• It is often unclear what you are buying for more money, except the social signal that you spent money.

Specifically for bicycles others mentioned already that precision and material improve with higher prices, leading to lower weight, smoother operation and perhaps a longer life. In my experience the "longer life" improvements level off as soon as you are out of Walmart: I bough two bikes in 2001 for ca. $700 and $1400; they hold up equally well.

Additionally in some places more elaborate designs are possible which

• improve maintainability (screwed, nor crimped)


• extend maintenance intervals (better seals in bearings)


• on occasion improve operation (Shimano parallelogram V-brakes).

For really cheap parts maintainability is not important from a money standpoint because you simply buy a new part (e.g. a complete crank set including three inseparable chainrings for the price of a single high-quality chainring).

All of these are very good answers to your exact question. But lets not forget the reason you are buying a new bike. Your old one got stolen. A cheap and an expensive bike can both be just as easily stolen. As OP pays more for a new bike, the risk of having the bike stolen goes up. While it is very important to make the considerations you are for a better bike, may I please recommend you upgrade your storage/security method before upgrading your bike. While not an actual component of the bike itself, I challenge you to consider the cost of security included in the cost of the bike.

There are many things that cause the price to increase and give the rider a better experience.

Frame - more expensive frames will generally be lighter, transfer power better, and provide some small bump compliance to smooth the ride.

Suspension - The suspension components will be more sophisticated with more options to tune for the rider. This can range from lighter materials to special stanchion coatings (makes the suspension travel smoother), to multi setting dampers.

Gears - Again, lighter materials can be used. You can have more gears, or a wider range of gears. They will shift better when applying power, and have improvements (such as a clutch mech) to avoid dropping the chain on rough terrain.

Brakes - Better brakes offer improved stopping power (useful on very steep trails), improved modulation, and on XC models ligher weight.

Wheels - Wheels can become lighter, stiffer and stronger. They can also provide tubeless compatibility.

Tyres - More expensive tyres will typically have some combination of: lighter, more grip, faster rolling, improved puncture resistance.

Seatpost - On more expensive models you are likely to find a carbon seatpost to offer some comfort via flex OR a dropper seatpost for improved confidence in technical terrain.

On a purely personal side note, I would never recommend buying a new mountain bike without tubeless compatible rims (even for a beginner). They really transform how a mountain bike behaves, and i'd rather have a cheaper bike with tubeless wheels/tyres than a more expensive bike without

The rational answer to your question is quite straightforward: check the average price of each component and this price is roughly proportional to manufacturing cost. You will have then four broad categories:

• Cheap components are heavy, but nowadays they will do the job, although they may need maintenance often, and maintenance may not be straightforward due to poor design;


• not so cheap components generally are lighter and sturdier, they will do the job and maintenance will not be needed so often;


• expensive components, even lighter and very reliable;


• wildly expensive components, super light, reliability may be an issue, requiring expensive (time- and money-wise) maintenance.

But instead of doing this time-consuming internet surfing process, I recommend you to visit the nearest, biggest Decathlon: they usually have a small park to test the different bicycles. Start with the 560, then test the very expensive mountain bike, then finally go testing the 520. And back to the 560.

You will have a definite feeling of what are the differences among them, and you will discover if they fits you. Given the info you gave about yourself, I tend to think that a 520 will be perfect for you, with only one "major" upgrade: change the handlebar grips, they can improve massively the feeling of the bicycle.

I wanted to add another point of view - your personal enjoyment / usage of the bike.

As I was in the same predicament a few years ago, I decided to get something that is cheaper but I can improve over time if needed. In the lower/mid-end bikes, there will always be compromises - you might get great breaks but a terrible fork and etc. so it's important to choose the things that are important to you.

You know what kind of riding you do, so when picking a bike research the options that will benefit your enjoyment of the bike. For example, I hated the groupset my bike came with. I loved riding my bike, but after switching to SRAM's NX (1x11) I can honestly say I enjoy my rides at least 20% more. There are other parts that I don't care for and won't swap with better ones, because it doesn't make my ride more fun/reliable.