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What can I do to keep a threaded bolt from falling out of its slot?


how to remove this battery tray bolt and what is it?Nut and bolt terminology. What is the name of the fixing in the image?






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9















I bought a new Chinese bike, 250cc. The bike was delivered in a crate, and the handlebars had to be screwed in by the end user.



One of the bolts keeps loosening, and if I forget to tighten it routinely, it will fall out. I’m looking for effective ways to keep this from happening. The first method that comes to mind is welding it in there, but what if I want to change the handlebars later in my product's lifecycle? Also, welding might not be the most economical solution.



What are some solutions to keeping my threaded-bolt from loosening and eventually falling out?










share|improve this question









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  • Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair!

    – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
    2 days ago






  • 1





    Consider ensuring that the screw is the correct length, and isn't just bottoming out in a hole. Also make sure you're tightening it sufficiently - if the handle bar is moving, it can cause the screw to loosen. If one side is routinely loosening, there may be a reason for it.

    – Arunas
    22 hours ago

















9















I bought a new Chinese bike, 250cc. The bike was delivered in a crate, and the handlebars had to be screwed in by the end user.



One of the bolts keeps loosening, and if I forget to tighten it routinely, it will fall out. I’m looking for effective ways to keep this from happening. The first method that comes to mind is welding it in there, but what if I want to change the handlebars later in my product's lifecycle? Also, welding might not be the most economical solution.



What are some solutions to keeping my threaded-bolt from loosening and eventually falling out?










share|improve this question









New contributor



Tiana Pyre is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





















  • Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair!

    – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
    2 days ago






  • 1





    Consider ensuring that the screw is the correct length, and isn't just bottoming out in a hole. Also make sure you're tightening it sufficiently - if the handle bar is moving, it can cause the screw to loosen. If one side is routinely loosening, there may be a reason for it.

    – Arunas
    22 hours ago













9












9








9








I bought a new Chinese bike, 250cc. The bike was delivered in a crate, and the handlebars had to be screwed in by the end user.



One of the bolts keeps loosening, and if I forget to tighten it routinely, it will fall out. I’m looking for effective ways to keep this from happening. The first method that comes to mind is welding it in there, but what if I want to change the handlebars later in my product's lifecycle? Also, welding might not be the most economical solution.



What are some solutions to keeping my threaded-bolt from loosening and eventually falling out?










share|improve this question









New contributor



Tiana Pyre is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











I bought a new Chinese bike, 250cc. The bike was delivered in a crate, and the handlebars had to be screwed in by the end user.



One of the bolts keeps loosening, and if I forget to tighten it routinely, it will fall out. I’m looking for effective ways to keep this from happening. The first method that comes to mind is welding it in there, but what if I want to change the handlebars later in my product's lifecycle? Also, welding might not be the most economical solution.



What are some solutions to keeping my threaded-bolt from loosening and eventually falling out?







bolts screw






share|improve this question









New contributor



Tiana Pyre is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.










share|improve this question









New contributor



Tiana Pyre is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.








share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 1 hour ago









EJoshuaS

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asked 2 days ago









Tiana PyreTiana Pyre

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Check out our Code of Conduct.

















  • Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair!

    – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
    2 days ago






  • 1





    Consider ensuring that the screw is the correct length, and isn't just bottoming out in a hole. Also make sure you're tightening it sufficiently - if the handle bar is moving, it can cause the screw to loosen. If one side is routinely loosening, there may be a reason for it.

    – Arunas
    22 hours ago

















  • Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair!

    – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
    2 days ago






  • 1





    Consider ensuring that the screw is the correct length, and isn't just bottoming out in a hole. Also make sure you're tightening it sufficiently - if the handle bar is moving, it can cause the screw to loosen. If one side is routinely loosening, there may be a reason for it.

    – Arunas
    22 hours ago
















Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair!

– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
2 days ago





Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair!

– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
2 days ago




1




1





Consider ensuring that the screw is the correct length, and isn't just bottoming out in a hole. Also make sure you're tightening it sufficiently - if the handle bar is moving, it can cause the screw to loosen. If one side is routinely loosening, there may be a reason for it.

– Arunas
22 hours ago





Consider ensuring that the screw is the correct length, and isn't just bottoming out in a hole. Also make sure you're tightening it sufficiently - if the handle bar is moving, it can cause the screw to loosen. If one side is routinely loosening, there may be a reason for it.

– Arunas
22 hours ago










7 Answers
7






active

oldest

votes


















34














The easiest, most economical method I can think of is to use Loctite Blue 242. You apply it to the thread, torque it to spec, then within 24 hours it will keep the bolt held in place without issue. If the Blue ever comes loose, you can step up to the Red, which requires heat to bust it loose. It will not come loose without a LOT of effort.



NOTE: I have no affiliation with this product.






share|improve this answer




















  • 1





    Thanks for sharing, I will look over the product.

    – Tiana Pyre
    2 days ago






  • 8





    Loctite is great but make sure you clean the threads of your fastener and bolt hole first with solvent to remove any oils or grime that will interfere with the friction needed for a fastener to hold.

    – geoO
    yesterday







  • 5





    @Michael so they say. That product seems like a good idea but without independent testing it's only maybe true and maybe marketing hype. But since the question specifies the threads are easy to access the questioner might as well use best fastener practice which is to have clean surfaces. The Locktite people have a lot of good stuff but the catalog is vast, the claims bold, and it's always important to set the variables you can control.

    – geoO
    yesterday






  • 3





    A locknut would work too.

    – J...
    yesterday







  • 2





    @J... But only if the threaded hole goes completely through the material. Many handlebar mounts have blind threaded holes, where the bolt does not protrude through the far face of the material.

    – David
    yesterday


















8














I agree about the Loctite products but a simple lock washer or lock nut might be another possible solution as well (depending on the length of the bolt available). Some handlebars are "secured" within a U shaped clamp with a bolt going through the ends of the "U" to squeeze the clamp down on the handlebar assembly and the harder you ride that bike the more those handlebars will come loose as the metal rubbing against metal slowly, or not so slowly, wears away the metal or the finish (street cruising, check it occasionally and tighten it as it gets loose ... back country motocross then you could have a catastrophic failure during your ride). A 250cc seems like you'd be having some of the off-road fun.






share|improve this answer








New contributor



user51042 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
















  • 3





    Interestingly, lock-washers are deemed to be mostly useless, or worse. See page 9 of ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19900009424.pdf

    – Arunas
    22 hours ago


















2














The thread locking compound and/or lock-washer are excellent suggestions assuming you're not loosing clamping force due to bolt stretch, bolt length (too short or bottoming), threads pulling or martial softness of the clamping surfaces.



I'd check all of these things out because bolt "torque" does NOT equal clamping force which is what holds the handle bar in place.






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    2














    There is something that bothers me: Handlebar bolts, as safety critical items, aren't supposed to become loose. Either you torqued them wrong (too loose or too tight) or there is something fundamentally wrong with it.



    I would inspect the bolts / entire assembly and check if



    • The thread is intact and fits the matching hole. Does the issue persist if you swap bolts?

    • All the bolts look identical (Size, threading, metallic shine).

    • Is the receiving thread intact? You can check that by "feeling" the torque on tightening the bolt: If it gets harder and harder the thread is good, if you can "spin" it forever with moderate torque the thread is gone.





    share|improve this answer
































      1














      If you can replace the bolt with one equipped for use with a lock wire/safety wire (e.g. one with a hole drilled through the bolt head from the side, or possibly a castellated bolt), and you can find something to tie the end of the safety wire to, this is one of the most reliable ways of keeping a bolt in place which is subjected to vibration stress. (This is the technique used by aircraft and other heavy industrial uses where a bolt failure can be catastrophic.)






      share|improve this answer








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        0














        You could also try re-tapping the connection



        https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Tap-Screw-and-Bolt-Threads/






        share|improve this answer




















        • 1





          This is a link only reference. You should bring the information here while providing the link as a source. Links become stale easily. Bringing the information here will live on.

          – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
          12 hours ago


















        0














        I have to agree with some of the other posters: Something is not right with the fastening, and/or the proper clamping pressure is not being achieved, perhaps due to under-torque.



        That said, I would rank the simplest solutions from best to worst as follows:



        1. castellated nut with cotter pin, hitch pin, safety wire on nut or bolt head

        2. adhesive threadlocker "Locktite"

        3. double nuts

        4. locking nuts, either distorted threads or "Nylocks"

        5. lockwashers, star washers, etc.

        Note that #5 really shouldn't be on the list, as once they are compressed, they are nearly worthless. Note also that #1 may be very difficult or nearly impossible to achieve for your application. Any or all of these solutions can be combined, but past #2 you are looking at very diminshing returns.



        All of these assume a properly designed and torqued fastener for the application. Perhaps that should be solution #0...



        Once again, I will seriously recommend Carrol Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing as a must read for anyone desiring a real understanding about how fasteners work, and how to keep them working reliably. It should be mandatory reading for any "mechanic" or mechanical engineering student. Simple and readable, this is not a math book, but an encyclopedia of fastening with knowledge gained from decades of experience with race vehicles and aircraft - a place where a loose fastener can represent loss-of-life, vehicle, and mission, as opposed to a mere maintenance headache.



        It bothers me to this day that otherwise very mechanically inclined folks still believe that lubricants or grease can cause a properly torqued fastener to loosen, that lubricant causes less than measured torque, that left-hand threads resist loss of torque from parts that have right-hand rotation, that some dirt or rust upon installation is a good thing as it keeps fasteners from loosening, multiple clicks from a torque wrench is a good thing, the torque wrench I inherited from my grandfather is still accurate, that all bolts can be reused indefinitely, and that you can trust your life to a lock washer.



        [sigh]






        share|improve this answer





























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          7 Answers
          7






          active

          oldest

          votes








          7 Answers
          7






          active

          oldest

          votes









          active

          oldest

          votes






          active

          oldest

          votes









          34














          The easiest, most economical method I can think of is to use Loctite Blue 242. You apply it to the thread, torque it to spec, then within 24 hours it will keep the bolt held in place without issue. If the Blue ever comes loose, you can step up to the Red, which requires heat to bust it loose. It will not come loose without a LOT of effort.



          NOTE: I have no affiliation with this product.






          share|improve this answer




















          • 1





            Thanks for sharing, I will look over the product.

            – Tiana Pyre
            2 days ago






          • 8





            Loctite is great but make sure you clean the threads of your fastener and bolt hole first with solvent to remove any oils or grime that will interfere with the friction needed for a fastener to hold.

            – geoO
            yesterday







          • 5





            @Michael so they say. That product seems like a good idea but without independent testing it's only maybe true and maybe marketing hype. But since the question specifies the threads are easy to access the questioner might as well use best fastener practice which is to have clean surfaces. The Locktite people have a lot of good stuff but the catalog is vast, the claims bold, and it's always important to set the variables you can control.

            – geoO
            yesterday






          • 3





            A locknut would work too.

            – J...
            yesterday







          • 2





            @J... But only if the threaded hole goes completely through the material. Many handlebar mounts have blind threaded holes, where the bolt does not protrude through the far face of the material.

            – David
            yesterday















          34














          The easiest, most economical method I can think of is to use Loctite Blue 242. You apply it to the thread, torque it to spec, then within 24 hours it will keep the bolt held in place without issue. If the Blue ever comes loose, you can step up to the Red, which requires heat to bust it loose. It will not come loose without a LOT of effort.



          NOTE: I have no affiliation with this product.






          share|improve this answer




















          • 1





            Thanks for sharing, I will look over the product.

            – Tiana Pyre
            2 days ago






          • 8





            Loctite is great but make sure you clean the threads of your fastener and bolt hole first with solvent to remove any oils or grime that will interfere with the friction needed for a fastener to hold.

            – geoO
            yesterday







          • 5





            @Michael so they say. That product seems like a good idea but without independent testing it's only maybe true and maybe marketing hype. But since the question specifies the threads are easy to access the questioner might as well use best fastener practice which is to have clean surfaces. The Locktite people have a lot of good stuff but the catalog is vast, the claims bold, and it's always important to set the variables you can control.

            – geoO
            yesterday






          • 3





            A locknut would work too.

            – J...
            yesterday







          • 2





            @J... But only if the threaded hole goes completely through the material. Many handlebar mounts have blind threaded holes, where the bolt does not protrude through the far face of the material.

            – David
            yesterday













          34












          34








          34







          The easiest, most economical method I can think of is to use Loctite Blue 242. You apply it to the thread, torque it to spec, then within 24 hours it will keep the bolt held in place without issue. If the Blue ever comes loose, you can step up to the Red, which requires heat to bust it loose. It will not come loose without a LOT of effort.



          NOTE: I have no affiliation with this product.






          share|improve this answer













          The easiest, most economical method I can think of is to use Loctite Blue 242. You apply it to the thread, torque it to spec, then within 24 hours it will keep the bolt held in place without issue. If the Blue ever comes loose, you can step up to the Red, which requires heat to bust it loose. It will not come loose without a LOT of effort.



          NOTE: I have no affiliation with this product.







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered 2 days ago









          Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2

          114k21 gold badges183 silver badges386 bronze badges




          114k21 gold badges183 silver badges386 bronze badges










          • 1





            Thanks for sharing, I will look over the product.

            – Tiana Pyre
            2 days ago






          • 8





            Loctite is great but make sure you clean the threads of your fastener and bolt hole first with solvent to remove any oils or grime that will interfere with the friction needed for a fastener to hold.

            – geoO
            yesterday







          • 5





            @Michael so they say. That product seems like a good idea but without independent testing it's only maybe true and maybe marketing hype. But since the question specifies the threads are easy to access the questioner might as well use best fastener practice which is to have clean surfaces. The Locktite people have a lot of good stuff but the catalog is vast, the claims bold, and it's always important to set the variables you can control.

            – geoO
            yesterday






          • 3





            A locknut would work too.

            – J...
            yesterday







          • 2





            @J... But only if the threaded hole goes completely through the material. Many handlebar mounts have blind threaded holes, where the bolt does not protrude through the far face of the material.

            – David
            yesterday












          • 1





            Thanks for sharing, I will look over the product.

            – Tiana Pyre
            2 days ago






          • 8





            Loctite is great but make sure you clean the threads of your fastener and bolt hole first with solvent to remove any oils or grime that will interfere with the friction needed for a fastener to hold.

            – geoO
            yesterday







          • 5





            @Michael so they say. That product seems like a good idea but without independent testing it's only maybe true and maybe marketing hype. But since the question specifies the threads are easy to access the questioner might as well use best fastener practice which is to have clean surfaces. The Locktite people have a lot of good stuff but the catalog is vast, the claims bold, and it's always important to set the variables you can control.

            – geoO
            yesterday






          • 3





            A locknut would work too.

            – J...
            yesterday







          • 2





            @J... But only if the threaded hole goes completely through the material. Many handlebar mounts have blind threaded holes, where the bolt does not protrude through the far face of the material.

            – David
            yesterday







          1




          1





          Thanks for sharing, I will look over the product.

          – Tiana Pyre
          2 days ago





          Thanks for sharing, I will look over the product.

          – Tiana Pyre
          2 days ago




          8




          8





          Loctite is great but make sure you clean the threads of your fastener and bolt hole first with solvent to remove any oils or grime that will interfere with the friction needed for a fastener to hold.

          – geoO
          yesterday






          Loctite is great but make sure you clean the threads of your fastener and bolt hole first with solvent to remove any oils or grime that will interfere with the friction needed for a fastener to hold.

          – geoO
          yesterday





          5




          5





          @Michael so they say. That product seems like a good idea but without independent testing it's only maybe true and maybe marketing hype. But since the question specifies the threads are easy to access the questioner might as well use best fastener practice which is to have clean surfaces. The Locktite people have a lot of good stuff but the catalog is vast, the claims bold, and it's always important to set the variables you can control.

          – geoO
          yesterday





          @Michael so they say. That product seems like a good idea but without independent testing it's only maybe true and maybe marketing hype. But since the question specifies the threads are easy to access the questioner might as well use best fastener practice which is to have clean surfaces. The Locktite people have a lot of good stuff but the catalog is vast, the claims bold, and it's always important to set the variables you can control.

          – geoO
          yesterday




          3




          3





          A locknut would work too.

          – J...
          yesterday






          A locknut would work too.

          – J...
          yesterday





          2




          2





          @J... But only if the threaded hole goes completely through the material. Many handlebar mounts have blind threaded holes, where the bolt does not protrude through the far face of the material.

          – David
          yesterday





          @J... But only if the threaded hole goes completely through the material. Many handlebar mounts have blind threaded holes, where the bolt does not protrude through the far face of the material.

          – David
          yesterday













          8














          I agree about the Loctite products but a simple lock washer or lock nut might be another possible solution as well (depending on the length of the bolt available). Some handlebars are "secured" within a U shaped clamp with a bolt going through the ends of the "U" to squeeze the clamp down on the handlebar assembly and the harder you ride that bike the more those handlebars will come loose as the metal rubbing against metal slowly, or not so slowly, wears away the metal or the finish (street cruising, check it occasionally and tighten it as it gets loose ... back country motocross then you could have a catastrophic failure during your ride). A 250cc seems like you'd be having some of the off-road fun.






          share|improve this answer








          New contributor



          user51042 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.
















          • 3





            Interestingly, lock-washers are deemed to be mostly useless, or worse. See page 9 of ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19900009424.pdf

            – Arunas
            22 hours ago















          8














          I agree about the Loctite products but a simple lock washer or lock nut might be another possible solution as well (depending on the length of the bolt available). Some handlebars are "secured" within a U shaped clamp with a bolt going through the ends of the "U" to squeeze the clamp down on the handlebar assembly and the harder you ride that bike the more those handlebars will come loose as the metal rubbing against metal slowly, or not so slowly, wears away the metal or the finish (street cruising, check it occasionally and tighten it as it gets loose ... back country motocross then you could have a catastrophic failure during your ride). A 250cc seems like you'd be having some of the off-road fun.






          share|improve this answer








          New contributor



          user51042 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.
















          • 3





            Interestingly, lock-washers are deemed to be mostly useless, or worse. See page 9 of ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19900009424.pdf

            – Arunas
            22 hours ago













          8












          8








          8







          I agree about the Loctite products but a simple lock washer or lock nut might be another possible solution as well (depending on the length of the bolt available). Some handlebars are "secured" within a U shaped clamp with a bolt going through the ends of the "U" to squeeze the clamp down on the handlebar assembly and the harder you ride that bike the more those handlebars will come loose as the metal rubbing against metal slowly, or not so slowly, wears away the metal or the finish (street cruising, check it occasionally and tighten it as it gets loose ... back country motocross then you could have a catastrophic failure during your ride). A 250cc seems like you'd be having some of the off-road fun.






          share|improve this answer








          New contributor



          user51042 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.









          I agree about the Loctite products but a simple lock washer or lock nut might be another possible solution as well (depending on the length of the bolt available). Some handlebars are "secured" within a U shaped clamp with a bolt going through the ends of the "U" to squeeze the clamp down on the handlebar assembly and the harder you ride that bike the more those handlebars will come loose as the metal rubbing against metal slowly, or not so slowly, wears away the metal or the finish (street cruising, check it occasionally and tighten it as it gets loose ... back country motocross then you could have a catastrophic failure during your ride). A 250cc seems like you'd be having some of the off-road fun.







          share|improve this answer








          New contributor



          user51042 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.








          share|improve this answer



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          answered yesterday









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          • 3





            Interestingly, lock-washers are deemed to be mostly useless, or worse. See page 9 of ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19900009424.pdf

            – Arunas
            22 hours ago












          • 3





            Interestingly, lock-washers are deemed to be mostly useless, or worse. See page 9 of ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19900009424.pdf

            – Arunas
            22 hours ago







          3




          3





          Interestingly, lock-washers are deemed to be mostly useless, or worse. See page 9 of ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19900009424.pdf

          – Arunas
          22 hours ago





          Interestingly, lock-washers are deemed to be mostly useless, or worse. See page 9 of ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19900009424.pdf

          – Arunas
          22 hours ago











          2














          The thread locking compound and/or lock-washer are excellent suggestions assuming you're not loosing clamping force due to bolt stretch, bolt length (too short or bottoming), threads pulling or martial softness of the clamping surfaces.



          I'd check all of these things out because bolt "torque" does NOT equal clamping force which is what holds the handle bar in place.






          share|improve this answer








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            2














            The thread locking compound and/or lock-washer are excellent suggestions assuming you're not loosing clamping force due to bolt stretch, bolt length (too short or bottoming), threads pulling or martial softness of the clamping surfaces.



            I'd check all of these things out because bolt "torque" does NOT equal clamping force which is what holds the handle bar in place.






            share|improve this answer








            New contributor



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              2












              2








              2







              The thread locking compound and/or lock-washer are excellent suggestions assuming you're not loosing clamping force due to bolt stretch, bolt length (too short or bottoming), threads pulling or martial softness of the clamping surfaces.



              I'd check all of these things out because bolt "torque" does NOT equal clamping force which is what holds the handle bar in place.






              share|improve this answer








              New contributor



              BigD is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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              The thread locking compound and/or lock-washer are excellent suggestions assuming you're not loosing clamping force due to bolt stretch, bolt length (too short or bottoming), threads pulling or martial softness of the clamping surfaces.



              I'd check all of these things out because bolt "torque" does NOT equal clamping force which is what holds the handle bar in place.







              share|improve this answer








              New contributor



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              share|improve this answer



              share|improve this answer






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              answered yesterday









              BigDBigD

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                  2














                  There is something that bothers me: Handlebar bolts, as safety critical items, aren't supposed to become loose. Either you torqued them wrong (too loose or too tight) or there is something fundamentally wrong with it.



                  I would inspect the bolts / entire assembly and check if



                  • The thread is intact and fits the matching hole. Does the issue persist if you swap bolts?

                  • All the bolts look identical (Size, threading, metallic shine).

                  • Is the receiving thread intact? You can check that by "feeling" the torque on tightening the bolt: If it gets harder and harder the thread is good, if you can "spin" it forever with moderate torque the thread is gone.





                  share|improve this answer





























                    2














                    There is something that bothers me: Handlebar bolts, as safety critical items, aren't supposed to become loose. Either you torqued them wrong (too loose or too tight) or there is something fundamentally wrong with it.



                    I would inspect the bolts / entire assembly and check if



                    • The thread is intact and fits the matching hole. Does the issue persist if you swap bolts?

                    • All the bolts look identical (Size, threading, metallic shine).

                    • Is the receiving thread intact? You can check that by "feeling" the torque on tightening the bolt: If it gets harder and harder the thread is good, if you can "spin" it forever with moderate torque the thread is gone.





                    share|improve this answer



























                      2












                      2








                      2







                      There is something that bothers me: Handlebar bolts, as safety critical items, aren't supposed to become loose. Either you torqued them wrong (too loose or too tight) or there is something fundamentally wrong with it.



                      I would inspect the bolts / entire assembly and check if



                      • The thread is intact and fits the matching hole. Does the issue persist if you swap bolts?

                      • All the bolts look identical (Size, threading, metallic shine).

                      • Is the receiving thread intact? You can check that by "feeling" the torque on tightening the bolt: If it gets harder and harder the thread is good, if you can "spin" it forever with moderate torque the thread is gone.





                      share|improve this answer













                      There is something that bothers me: Handlebar bolts, as safety critical items, aren't supposed to become loose. Either you torqued them wrong (too loose or too tight) or there is something fundamentally wrong with it.



                      I would inspect the bolts / entire assembly and check if



                      • The thread is intact and fits the matching hole. Does the issue persist if you swap bolts?

                      • All the bolts look identical (Size, threading, metallic shine).

                      • Is the receiving thread intact? You can check that by "feeling" the torque on tightening the bolt: If it gets harder and harder the thread is good, if you can "spin" it forever with moderate torque the thread is gone.






                      share|improve this answer












                      share|improve this answer



                      share|improve this answer










                      answered 5 hours ago









                      MartinMartin

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                          1














                          If you can replace the bolt with one equipped for use with a lock wire/safety wire (e.g. one with a hole drilled through the bolt head from the side, or possibly a castellated bolt), and you can find something to tie the end of the safety wire to, this is one of the most reliable ways of keeping a bolt in place which is subjected to vibration stress. (This is the technique used by aircraft and other heavy industrial uses where a bolt failure can be catastrophic.)






                          share|improve this answer








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                            1














                            If you can replace the bolt with one equipped for use with a lock wire/safety wire (e.g. one with a hole drilled through the bolt head from the side, or possibly a castellated bolt), and you can find something to tie the end of the safety wire to, this is one of the most reliable ways of keeping a bolt in place which is subjected to vibration stress. (This is the technique used by aircraft and other heavy industrial uses where a bolt failure can be catastrophic.)






                            share|improve this answer








                            New contributor



                            Darrel Hoffman is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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                              1












                              1








                              1







                              If you can replace the bolt with one equipped for use with a lock wire/safety wire (e.g. one with a hole drilled through the bolt head from the side, or possibly a castellated bolt), and you can find something to tie the end of the safety wire to, this is one of the most reliable ways of keeping a bolt in place which is subjected to vibration stress. (This is the technique used by aircraft and other heavy industrial uses where a bolt failure can be catastrophic.)






                              share|improve this answer








                              New contributor



                              Darrel Hoffman is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                              Check out our Code of Conduct.









                              If you can replace the bolt with one equipped for use with a lock wire/safety wire (e.g. one with a hole drilled through the bolt head from the side, or possibly a castellated bolt), and you can find something to tie the end of the safety wire to, this is one of the most reliable ways of keeping a bolt in place which is subjected to vibration stress. (This is the technique used by aircraft and other heavy industrial uses where a bolt failure can be catastrophic.)







                              share|improve this answer








                              New contributor



                              Darrel Hoffman is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                              Check out our Code of Conduct.








                              share|improve this answer



                              share|improve this answer






                              New contributor



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                              answered 6 hours ago









                              Darrel HoffmanDarrel Hoffman

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                                  0














                                  You could also try re-tapping the connection



                                  https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Tap-Screw-and-Bolt-Threads/






                                  share|improve this answer




















                                  • 1





                                    This is a link only reference. You should bring the information here while providing the link as a source. Links become stale easily. Bringing the information here will live on.

                                    – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
                                    12 hours ago















                                  0














                                  You could also try re-tapping the connection



                                  https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Tap-Screw-and-Bolt-Threads/






                                  share|improve this answer




















                                  • 1





                                    This is a link only reference. You should bring the information here while providing the link as a source. Links become stale easily. Bringing the information here will live on.

                                    – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
                                    12 hours ago













                                  0












                                  0








                                  0







                                  You could also try re-tapping the connection



                                  https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Tap-Screw-and-Bolt-Threads/






                                  share|improve this answer













                                  You could also try re-tapping the connection



                                  https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Tap-Screw-and-Bolt-Threads/







                                  share|improve this answer












                                  share|improve this answer



                                  share|improve this answer










                                  answered yesterday









                                  NKCampbellNKCampbell

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                                  1274 bronze badges










                                  • 1





                                    This is a link only reference. You should bring the information here while providing the link as a source. Links become stale easily. Bringing the information here will live on.

                                    – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
                                    12 hours ago












                                  • 1





                                    This is a link only reference. You should bring the information here while providing the link as a source. Links become stale easily. Bringing the information here will live on.

                                    – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
                                    12 hours ago







                                  1




                                  1





                                  This is a link only reference. You should bring the information here while providing the link as a source. Links become stale easily. Bringing the information here will live on.

                                  – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
                                  12 hours ago





                                  This is a link only reference. You should bring the information here while providing the link as a source. Links become stale easily. Bringing the information here will live on.

                                  – Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
                                  12 hours ago











                                  0














                                  I have to agree with some of the other posters: Something is not right with the fastening, and/or the proper clamping pressure is not being achieved, perhaps due to under-torque.



                                  That said, I would rank the simplest solutions from best to worst as follows:



                                  1. castellated nut with cotter pin, hitch pin, safety wire on nut or bolt head

                                  2. adhesive threadlocker "Locktite"

                                  3. double nuts

                                  4. locking nuts, either distorted threads or "Nylocks"

                                  5. lockwashers, star washers, etc.

                                  Note that #5 really shouldn't be on the list, as once they are compressed, they are nearly worthless. Note also that #1 may be very difficult or nearly impossible to achieve for your application. Any or all of these solutions can be combined, but past #2 you are looking at very diminshing returns.



                                  All of these assume a properly designed and torqued fastener for the application. Perhaps that should be solution #0...



                                  Once again, I will seriously recommend Carrol Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing as a must read for anyone desiring a real understanding about how fasteners work, and how to keep them working reliably. It should be mandatory reading for any "mechanic" or mechanical engineering student. Simple and readable, this is not a math book, but an encyclopedia of fastening with knowledge gained from decades of experience with race vehicles and aircraft - a place where a loose fastener can represent loss-of-life, vehicle, and mission, as opposed to a mere maintenance headache.



                                  It bothers me to this day that otherwise very mechanically inclined folks still believe that lubricants or grease can cause a properly torqued fastener to loosen, that lubricant causes less than measured torque, that left-hand threads resist loss of torque from parts that have right-hand rotation, that some dirt or rust upon installation is a good thing as it keeps fasteners from loosening, multiple clicks from a torque wrench is a good thing, the torque wrench I inherited from my grandfather is still accurate, that all bolts can be reused indefinitely, and that you can trust your life to a lock washer.



                                  [sigh]






                                  share|improve this answer































                                    0














                                    I have to agree with some of the other posters: Something is not right with the fastening, and/or the proper clamping pressure is not being achieved, perhaps due to under-torque.



                                    That said, I would rank the simplest solutions from best to worst as follows:



                                    1. castellated nut with cotter pin, hitch pin, safety wire on nut or bolt head

                                    2. adhesive threadlocker "Locktite"

                                    3. double nuts

                                    4. locking nuts, either distorted threads or "Nylocks"

                                    5. lockwashers, star washers, etc.

                                    Note that #5 really shouldn't be on the list, as once they are compressed, they are nearly worthless. Note also that #1 may be very difficult or nearly impossible to achieve for your application. Any or all of these solutions can be combined, but past #2 you are looking at very diminshing returns.



                                    All of these assume a properly designed and torqued fastener for the application. Perhaps that should be solution #0...



                                    Once again, I will seriously recommend Carrol Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing as a must read for anyone desiring a real understanding about how fasteners work, and how to keep them working reliably. It should be mandatory reading for any "mechanic" or mechanical engineering student. Simple and readable, this is not a math book, but an encyclopedia of fastening with knowledge gained from decades of experience with race vehicles and aircraft - a place where a loose fastener can represent loss-of-life, vehicle, and mission, as opposed to a mere maintenance headache.



                                    It bothers me to this day that otherwise very mechanically inclined folks still believe that lubricants or grease can cause a properly torqued fastener to loosen, that lubricant causes less than measured torque, that left-hand threads resist loss of torque from parts that have right-hand rotation, that some dirt or rust upon installation is a good thing as it keeps fasteners from loosening, multiple clicks from a torque wrench is a good thing, the torque wrench I inherited from my grandfather is still accurate, that all bolts can be reused indefinitely, and that you can trust your life to a lock washer.



                                    [sigh]






                                    share|improve this answer





























                                      0












                                      0








                                      0







                                      I have to agree with some of the other posters: Something is not right with the fastening, and/or the proper clamping pressure is not being achieved, perhaps due to under-torque.



                                      That said, I would rank the simplest solutions from best to worst as follows:



                                      1. castellated nut with cotter pin, hitch pin, safety wire on nut or bolt head

                                      2. adhesive threadlocker "Locktite"

                                      3. double nuts

                                      4. locking nuts, either distorted threads or "Nylocks"

                                      5. lockwashers, star washers, etc.

                                      Note that #5 really shouldn't be on the list, as once they are compressed, they are nearly worthless. Note also that #1 may be very difficult or nearly impossible to achieve for your application. Any or all of these solutions can be combined, but past #2 you are looking at very diminshing returns.



                                      All of these assume a properly designed and torqued fastener for the application. Perhaps that should be solution #0...



                                      Once again, I will seriously recommend Carrol Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing as a must read for anyone desiring a real understanding about how fasteners work, and how to keep them working reliably. It should be mandatory reading for any "mechanic" or mechanical engineering student. Simple and readable, this is not a math book, but an encyclopedia of fastening with knowledge gained from decades of experience with race vehicles and aircraft - a place where a loose fastener can represent loss-of-life, vehicle, and mission, as opposed to a mere maintenance headache.



                                      It bothers me to this day that otherwise very mechanically inclined folks still believe that lubricants or grease can cause a properly torqued fastener to loosen, that lubricant causes less than measured torque, that left-hand threads resist loss of torque from parts that have right-hand rotation, that some dirt or rust upon installation is a good thing as it keeps fasteners from loosening, multiple clicks from a torque wrench is a good thing, the torque wrench I inherited from my grandfather is still accurate, that all bolts can be reused indefinitely, and that you can trust your life to a lock washer.



                                      [sigh]






                                      share|improve this answer















                                      I have to agree with some of the other posters: Something is not right with the fastening, and/or the proper clamping pressure is not being achieved, perhaps due to under-torque.



                                      That said, I would rank the simplest solutions from best to worst as follows:



                                      1. castellated nut with cotter pin, hitch pin, safety wire on nut or bolt head

                                      2. adhesive threadlocker "Locktite"

                                      3. double nuts

                                      4. locking nuts, either distorted threads or "Nylocks"

                                      5. lockwashers, star washers, etc.

                                      Note that #5 really shouldn't be on the list, as once they are compressed, they are nearly worthless. Note also that #1 may be very difficult or nearly impossible to achieve for your application. Any or all of these solutions can be combined, but past #2 you are looking at very diminshing returns.



                                      All of these assume a properly designed and torqued fastener for the application. Perhaps that should be solution #0...



                                      Once again, I will seriously recommend Carrol Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing as a must read for anyone desiring a real understanding about how fasteners work, and how to keep them working reliably. It should be mandatory reading for any "mechanic" or mechanical engineering student. Simple and readable, this is not a math book, but an encyclopedia of fastening with knowledge gained from decades of experience with race vehicles and aircraft - a place where a loose fastener can represent loss-of-life, vehicle, and mission, as opposed to a mere maintenance headache.



                                      It bothers me to this day that otherwise very mechanically inclined folks still believe that lubricants or grease can cause a properly torqued fastener to loosen, that lubricant causes less than measured torque, that left-hand threads resist loss of torque from parts that have right-hand rotation, that some dirt or rust upon installation is a good thing as it keeps fasteners from loosening, multiple clicks from a torque wrench is a good thing, the torque wrench I inherited from my grandfather is still accurate, that all bolts can be reused indefinitely, and that you can trust your life to a lock washer.



                                      [sigh]







                                      share|improve this answer














                                      share|improve this answer



                                      share|improve this answer








                                      edited 1 hour ago

























                                      answered 1 hour ago









                                      SteveRacerSteveRacer

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